Patching small srew holes in fiberglass - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-06-2013, 08:53 PM   #1
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Patching small srew holes in fiberglass

I have read and read on repairing fiberglass but I have not seen a thread on filling/patching holes. The holes are 1/8 inch. The had small bolts through them on a Radom broken light fixture. The new fixture lines up different. What do I do with the previous holes. Thanks
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:25 PM   #2
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Inside light fixture? where located? Will the new light cover the holes?
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:28 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Inside light fixture? where located? Will the new light cover the holes?
The new light will hide them but I thought I would give it a go filling them and was looking for best options. It is the holes in the fiberglass from the old fixture
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:50 PM   #4
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On Scamps I use white Marine-Tex it is a fairly close match and looks a lot better than a empty hole. I just slightly over fill the hole and just before it sets up hard
I take a razor blade and trim it to match the surface level. When Marine-Tex sets up it gets as hard as a rock. I think there are other white epoxies available that you can also patch holes with.
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http://www.marinetex.com/
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:13 PM   #5
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I like the marine tex product that Eddie posted the link to as well but I have also used for a few small holes the PC Marine Epoxy Putty on some screw holes on inside cabinets that needed refilling. Works well and a pretty good match. Just make sure you wipe up well around the hole before it drys. Keep some in the trailer for those emergency repair situations.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:09 AM   #6
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Gosh, you just THINK of a problem (open screw holes) and someone types in an answer. Ain't the internets grand?

I was thinking of using some porcelain repair cement I have lying around.
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:36 PM   #7
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Another version of the epoxy stick above.
Oatey 4 oz. Epoxy Putty-31270 at The Home Depot

My recomendation when using the epoxy stick is to chamfer the hole on both sides if you can and push the mixed putty in the hole and flatten both sides. Chamfering the hole you can use an over size drill bit and twist it by hand to make the chamfer. this makes an epoxy rivet that wont fall out or pop on you. The bump on the good side I would trim down with a razor blade to get rid of the hump. this is easy to do as soon as the putty stiffens up before full cure. If this surface is exposed to sunlight it will eventuly change color as ita not UV stable so borrow your Gals fingernail polish and touch up as needed.
I have use lots of epoxy putty in my work.

If you want to sand it down put down a single layer of clear packing tape on the surface as smooth as you can. then cut a small area around the hole. putty up the hole and when curred start wet sanding the surface until you tear the tape. this way you dont skuff up the area trying to get the hump down to the surface. Now peel the tape and clean up the residue. the repair will be very small.
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:59 PM   #8
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My philosophy is that unless a hole can be so perfectly repaired as to be invisible, it's better to simply plug it.

Nylon hole plugs are very inexpensive, and the "look" seems tidier to me than filler.

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Old 05-07-2013, 01:13 PM   #9
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Francesca,
I agree with you but in my case I know of 3 holes in my trailer where I put rivets and snap caps going no where to hide holes. Stealth, hidden within the masses. But with a light fixture going over the top of the origional posters problem he doesnt need a hump and should have a water proof hole. even buytl putty in place would do. Many options many paths.
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:17 PM   #10
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OOPS!

I missed that it would be covered by a fixture...I vote good ol' butyl tape in that non-cosmetic case!

Francesca
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:38 PM   #11
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Well one of the benefits of using the Marine tex type products vs a plug or butyl is that it will remain 100% waterproof for life of the trailer whether it be another 5 years or 50 years. Its also can be drilled so its a good product to use if you are having troubles keeping screws threaded down on fiberglass fixtures - common on the lower sections of Scamps kitchens for example. Fill the hole and then redrill to make a tighter fit.

What works best functionally and aesthetically will depend a great deal on where the hole is located and its original purpose.
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:07 PM   #12
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For unused holes, I can offer two choices:

1) Redrill the mounting holes in the new fixture so as to use the old holes over again.

2) Stop by at a real hardware supply store and buy some 1/8" x 1/4" or 3/16" x 1/4" White aluminum pop-rivets and pop those into the holes.

BTW: The Hole Checking Police (That's the HCP not to be confused with the CHP), due to a lack of cases, was disbanded several years back, you are at no risk of getting caught with your holes unfilled.
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
For unused holes, I can offer two choices:

1) Redrill the mounting holes in the new fixture so as to use the old holes over again.

2) Stop by at a real hardware supply store and buy some 1/8" x 1/4" or 3/16" x 1/4" White aluminum pop-rivets and pop those into the holes.
I didn't know they had white rivets. I've now got it on my hardware store shopping list. Thanks for the suggestion--everyone has this issue from time to time, and I've not been that happy with using epoxy fillers.
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:28 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
BTW: The Hole Checking Police (That's the HCP not to be confused with the CHP), due to a lack of cases, was disbanded several years back, you are at no risk of getting caught with your holes unfilled.
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