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04-30-2015, 07:20 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
Not mentioned is that when you replace damaged/worn bearings that you also need to replace the races, (the parts that stay in the hub). While the old ones can be knocked with a drift punch, the new ones should be pressed (not driven) into place. If you don't have a press, most real auto supply stores do, and will usually press them in for a few $$ Ditto for the new grease seals.
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Bob, races are also called cups in the industry, bearings called cones (for instance: LM501349/LM501310 Tapered Cup and Cone Set - Carnell Sales, Inc.). I do not have a press, and have rebuilt more hubs over the decades than I can remember. Usually I use appropriately sized sockets as drivers, but not all the time. 2X4 blocks, punches, pipe, whatever it takes. I pretty much have an assortment of such tools in one tool chest drawer now, just for cup and seal installation.
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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04-30-2015, 07:30 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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RE: Installing Races, Armstrong Method
As have I, but I try to write advice for the level of the person asking the question. Driving in parts isn't a good idea for the newbie to the bearing changing world. Some things that you or I might do automatically to get a good install might not occur to the novice mechanic.
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04-30-2015, 07:37 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
RE: Installing Races, Armstrong Method
As have I, but I try to write advice for the level of the person asking the question. Driving in parts isn't a good idea for the newbie to the bearing changing world. Some things that you or I might do automatically to get a good install might not occur to the novice mechanic.
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Good advice Bob. I can't even remember when I started doing this stuff, but it was a long time ago. And it just comes naturally to me now. Do a little, check, do a little more, check. I've seen pros use seal installation tools and screw up brand new seals (in fact, just a few weeks ago). I can't remember ever screwing up a new seal. Patience is key!
"Armstrong method", good one Bob! I just rebuilt one of the worst set of hubs I've seen, and installing the cups was not easy! Once they're in and set though, the rest is cake. Messy, but cake nonetheless.
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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04-30-2015, 10:19 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a
Boy, that is a good question folks. I have those on my Parkliner, and had never seen anything like that before. I got new ones somewhere. NAPA is a good bet, but I can't remember for sure. If not there, are you familiar with RH Scales in Albany? They're like an etrailer local store/warehouse. I have bought lots of stuff there over the years just because I can go there and they generally have what I'm looking for: TRAILER, TOWING & TRUCK EQUIPMENT | RH Scales
They just moved from their old Central Avenue location to 20 Kairnes St # 1 in Albany. Their # is 453-5422.
Good luck!
Frank
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I got the parts I needed for our Casita hubs, bearings, seals, lock tab, dust cover, from Heavy Haulers in West Ghent. They're only about 15 minutes from me. I bought a ARE truck cap from them last November and they installed it on my Dodge Ram pickup. They have all kinds of trailer stuff.
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04-30-2015, 10:22 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
I got the parts I needed for our Casita hubs, bearings, seals, lock tab, dust cover, from Heavy Haulers in West Ghent. They're only about 15 minutes from me. I bought a ARE truck cap from them last November and they installed it on my Dodge Ram pickup. They have all kinds of trailer stuff.
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Okay. Why did you ask me about NAPA then?!?
Enjoying the great weather? You back in New Yawk?
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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04-30-2015, 10:28 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a
Okay. Why did you ask me about NAPA then?!?
Enjoying the great weather? You back in New Yawk?
Frank
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NAPA is only 2 minutes away from me, but I don't do much business there as it was recently sold and I don't know the new owner. We've been back in NY since mid March, which turned out to be a little too soon
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04-30-2015, 10:36 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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I have to go to NAPA soon, and will ask, and if they have them, will get a part # for ya.
Whadya mean too soon?!? Don't ya just love NY?!?
Now that we have the Ford Escape set up to see brakes in the Parkliner, we're installing a back up camera on the Escape and getting door-mount side view mirrors for it. The next thing I need to educate myself on is solar, how it hooks to my batteries, and how many watts I need to make coffee with my electric coffee maker in the morning.
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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04-30-2015, 08:41 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Gardnpondr
Trailer: 1985 BigFoot G
Mississippi
Posts: 143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a
I was the one that posted that NAPA kit. I have no clue if it's the right one for your trailer, but it is common, as I have bought it quite often to do small trailers. Those kits are everything you need for one axle, cups, cones (those are the bearing parts), cotter pins, and grease caps. Even comes with grease (hidden in one of the caps). All that stuff comes in one blister pack.
By the way, I don't use the grease that comes in those kits. I use Lucas Red & Tacky. Great stuff. You never want to mix greases!
If you can, take one hub off, remove the outer bearing (that's the easy one), flip the hub, remove the seal as carefully as you can, get the rear bearing out, run those three parts over to NAPA and ask if they have a kit for your axle. It won't take them long, or it shouldn't. If they do have a kit, you need two of them.
Feel free to ask any questions. This is really an easy job. Just take your time.
Also, I agree with folks here who suggest you just buy new brake assemblies. Usually you can easily figure out what you need just by measuring the width of the shoes, and the diameter of the drum. Usually I get all new stuff, including new drums when I have an old trailer with brakes. I want good brakes!
Best of luck to ya!
Frank
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Thank you Frank, no I will need 4 of them because it's double axle. :-)
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05-01-2015, 12:26 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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One kit does one axle, so you need two kits!
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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