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Old 04-16-2013, 10:54 PM   #61
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Name: Anita
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
This is a puzzle...Don't think I've ever heard of a Scamp leaving the factory without a converter.

Don't you have interior 12v lights, a fan-forced furnace, and possibly a water pump? Those would require a converter to work when on shorepower (110v)...unless of course one kept a battery charger on the battery at the same time.

Francesca
I have no furnace but do have air condition and two set of lights, toaster oven, on 110. My water pump and four interior lights run on 12v. The way it seems according to them is that when on shore I plug in(haven't done it) the above works on 110 except those that work off the battery. The refrig works off AC,DC, or propane..
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:55 PM   #62
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by chance, did you look under the fridge? Mine was in this hole the water lines are headed into.
No but will Jared..thanks for sharing..will try to check before the snow tomorrow. Never thought of looking under refrig!
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:04 PM   #63
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No but will Jared..thanks for sharing..will try to check before the snow tomorrow. Never thought of looking under refrig!
So do I find it from the outside? Third pic looks like you took from outside see the tire on the left! Bet it's there it didn't make any sense that it did not have one! If it is not Progressive will have that one installed probably worth it! Again thanx!
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:26 PM   #64
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Nope, inside. That's to the right of the fridge, between the fridge and furnace, on mine. There's a space between the front of the cabinet, and the wheel well. Mine was galvanized silver. Wish I had a picture of before I tore it out.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:09 AM   #65
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Anita what year and layout is your Scamp? The location of it has changed from year to year as well as layout model. On mine it is as Scamp suggested on the drivers side under the rear bench up beside the wall for the fridge.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:26 AM   #66
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To find the converter, follow the 110 volt wire in, or the 12 volt wires back to their source.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:46 AM   #67
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It sound like your Scamp may have been modified by a previous owner. If it had the American (brand name) converter and it smoked (as they seem oft to do) they may have pulled it out and replaced it with something to charge the battery to save money.

If, by chance, you find an intact AC & DC distribution/fuse panel, you can also look into a Progressive Dynamics PD-9240 converter that will supply DC as well as take care of your charging needs. But I would still go with the PD-4045.

As far as location. Usually under the l/h seat in the rear dinette, but look for where all of the AC & DC wires are termnated first. (Follow the power cord)



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Old 04-17-2013, 09:27 AM   #68
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Converter hunting again this morning thanks for all good input! Not snowing so got to go now! Happy Trails!
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:44 AM   #69
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I just heard that Frank Bear @ Vintage Technologies was selling PD-4045's for less than $150.



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Old 04-17-2013, 05:12 PM   #70
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Okay, I literally went through every compartment inside and out..no converter..then spoke to Scamp and they said it was an option in '89. So thinking since the principal use of the converter is to charge the battery why not a real good solar panel instead of forking out money for converter and completely retiring. So please share your input!
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:16 PM   #71
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Since you'll be relying so much on 12volt, I recommend that you at least buy a plug-in charger so you can not just charge your battery but run your 12v lights/appliances when plugged in to shorepower. Otherwise you'll be limited to whatever juice is stored in the battery!

Francesca
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:19 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeitall View Post
Okay, I literally went through every compartment inside and out..no converter..then spoke to Scamp and they said it was an option in '89. So thinking since the principal use of the converter is to charge the battery why not a real good solar panel instead of forking out money for converter and completely retiring. So please share your input!
I don't have solar, but every time the converter question comes up, the folks who have solar suggest that the $200 or so spent on a converter is better spent on solar.
Unless you plan to camp where there are hookups, there is no point in having a converter. It is nice though, when you are camping in your driveway.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:40 PM   #73
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The converter not only charges the battery, it provides DC power when plugged in and a DC distribution system. It will also have your AC circuit breakers.

I see solar as a nice "Add-On" to a complete system, but remember, they don't work at night or well in that shaded camping site. Add to that, you can't get much solar for $200.

But some see a converter as "over kill" and get by with just a battery charger and/or solar.



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Old 04-17-2013, 10:15 PM   #74
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Quote:
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The converter not only charges the battery, it provides DC power when plugged in and a DC distribution system. It will also have your AC circuit breakers.

I see solar as a nice "Add-On" to a complete system, but remember, they don't work at night or well in that shaded camping site. Add to that, you can't get much solar for $200.

But some see a converter as "over kill" and get by with just a battery charger and/or solar.
I agree with you both..think I will get battery charger my battery is high in amps. Then will also get solar panel. Easier than re-wiring, like the idea of dry camping from time to time! Also it does not get dark until late, also plan to have battery lamps, flashlights, a small candle or two. I am an outside person so don't see using lights much...thanks again for all your help / discussion. Next week should be my first outing..woohoo!
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:30 PM   #75
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I did the same thing Anita. My '77 Scamp didn't have a converter either--I don't think it ever did. I bought a float charger until I can get the solar put in. Its kept the battery up nicely without having to watch the charger. I bought a 100w flexible solar panel, controller and wiring for about $300 over the internet. I finally have everything and will install next week. I've read a lot here about how to do it, and don't expect it to be very difficult. I think you're making a good call. Good luck in your projects.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:35 AM   #76
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I agree with you both..think I will get battery charger my battery is high in amps. Then will also get solar panel. Easier than re-wiring, like the idea of dry camping from time to time! Also it does not get dark until late, also plan to have battery lamps, flashlights, a small candle or two. I am an outside person so don't see using lights much...thanks again for all your help / discussion. Next week should be my first outing..woohoo!

I'm one of those that sees a converter as "over kill" and certainly not needed. The battery gets charged from the tow or solar so there's no need for a converter. In fact I believe my converter, that I've turned off, killed a battery within a year. The converter never fully charged the battery and didn't go into a de-sulfate mode. When the egg is in it's nest I use a Battery Tender to keep it fully charged and it has de-sulfate cycle.

I carry a battery charger, I thought I might need one when I bought my trailer. So far I've used it on two vehicle batteries, my ham radio battery and loaned it a couple of times. I did use it once on the trailer battery, but that's another story.

The best thing you can do is to reduce your power usage, spend your money on LED lights first. Then add solar. If the weather is warm and the furnace doesn't run but once or twice in the early morning hours I can go about 3 days before I drag out the solar panel and charge the battery. If the it's warmer and furnace doesn't run at all, I have no idea how long I can go, my best guess is close to a month. Before LED lights it was about 5 days with no furnace running and 3 days with the furnace running a couple times. Panel size = 65 Watts.

LED lights were probably the single best I've done.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:29 PM   #77
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I'm one of those that sees a converter as "over kill" and certainly not needed. The battery gets charged from the tow or solar so there's no need for a converter. In fact I believe my converter, that I've turned off, killed a battery within a year. The converter never fully charged the battery and didn't go into a de-sulfate mode. When the egg is in it's nest I use a Battery Tender to keep it fully charged and it has de-sulfate cycle.

I carry a battery charger, I thought I might need one when I bought my trailer. So far I've used it on two vehicle batteries, my ham radio battery and loaned it a couple of times. I did use it once on the trailer battery, but that's another story.

The best thing you can do is to reduce your power usage, spend your money on LED lights first. Then add solar. If the weather is warm and the furnace doesn't run but once or twice in the early morning hours I can go about 3 days before I drag out the solar panel and charge the battery. If the it's warmer and furnace doesn't run at all, I have no idea how long I can go, my best guess is close to a month. Before LED lights it was about 5 days with no furnace running and 3 days with the furnace running a couple times. Panel size = 65 Watts.

LED lights were probably the single best I've done.
Thank you so where do I buy LED lights for the DC lights..I use LED lights at home..I do not have a furnace and don't plan too will use ceramic or catalytic..only thing I can see that will use power is my water pump. Can solve that when boon-docking by carrying water. Good input!
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:35 PM   #78
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Thank you so where do I buy LED lights for the DC lights..I use LED lights at home..I do not have a furnace and don't plan too will use ceramic or catalytic..only thing I can see that will use power is my water pump. Can solve that when boon-docking by carrying water. Good input!
Hi,
I bought mine here
However, Google is our friend. Find the bulb number for each of the 12 volt fixtures, mine are 1141 automotive bulbs. Then search on the bulb number with LED before or after, 1141 LED brought up the above mentioned sight. Search around for good prices.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:48 PM   #79
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Okay found some on Amazon for $8.95 they were 15 SMD 3528..
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:51 PM   #80
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Will check..thanks!
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