please help me with my door - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-04-2012, 01:20 PM   #1
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please help me with my door

working on the door today and as suspected previous owner has done some modifications to the door frame. when we place a 4 foot straight edge across the top of the door running from the front to the back of the trailer there is a dip where the door frame is . doesn't seem to me like this should be, if anyone has insight or would be willing to take a straightedge out to their door and tell me if there's does the same thing I would be very grateful.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:54 PM   #2
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Do not know but think 13' units had a step at the door on bolers and this looks a lot like a boler
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:02 PM   #3
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thanks Borden , I'm talking about at the top of the door opening , maybe I am miss understanding you but I think it's more . likely that I did not make myself clear . when we put a 4 foot StraitEdge across the door opening with the door open the shell dips slightly at the door opening.
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:21 PM   #4
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Cathy, can you post a picture of just the door and maybe one with the straight edge. I poked through all your pictures and didn't see one.
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:50 PM   #5
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Donna,

In first picture. I am standing in the doorway looking up. The others don't show the "dip" just where I have sanded out much of the old repair. Not sure I want to take all of the old repair out cause the top of the doorway will be gone. Will only go there if the curve of the shell has been altered by old repair.

Thanks,
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DSCN9595.jpg   DSCN9596.jpg  

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Old 11-04-2012, 03:15 PM   #6
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Your distortion of the shell is more than likely because you have removed the supports for the shell. In a 13 Scamp the closet keeps the shell from bowing out on the side and it also keeps the top raised up. On a S-13 the hinge side of the door opening has a metal bar support to support for the door hinges and it also mantains the shape of the side of the trailer.
Try lifting your shell up for proper alignment (Lift it slightly more than needed.) and install your closet and hinge support and see what happens.
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:33 PM   #7
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Eddie's right Cathy! The door would be the LAST part of the body I'd fix and that would be after the interior pieces are back in place.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:52 PM   #8
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Thanks for the input Eddie and Donna,

Put the closet in, took it out, pushed up on the roof, and no change. There isn't any flex above the door where the dip is because the angles of the door frame make it rigid.

Any additional suggestions.

Ugh, we are never going to see the light of day, unless we look through the cracks in the door!
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:23 PM   #9
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The closet on that side holds the roofline in its proper location, I would pop the closet back in and see where it sits then and not do any repairs till the closet is back in for good to hold the shape.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:30 PM   #10
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I just took another look at your pics. It looks like there is a patch on the inside and looks like it was hit and the repair may have not been done properly. you may have to slice the roof section and then push it back into its porper location and the redo the patch. I had a similar problem at my drivers side rear window and had to make 2 cuts into the roof to get back into place before redoing the fibreglass patch. If you look in my profile and go to my album I have a few pics of the cuts I had to make.
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:17 PM   #11
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Should I take your suggestions to mean that this is not the way your shell is above your door? It is most similar to a Boler or Scamp.

The dip does not occur on the top of the trailer - only in that one place immediately over the door (almost the side of the trailer. It can't be pushed out from inside because it is too rigid from the angles at the door opening.. The straight edge was held just at the top of the door opening.

If this isn't the intended design then I can only conclude that it was altered by PO attempt to repair some sort of damage. There were places that some white filler material appeared between the upper layer of fiberglass and one beneath. Sort of a filler sandwich with fiberglass bread. Because of the "quality" of the work it would stand to reason that the proper curve was not of great concern. The upper 5 inches of the door frame and the entire top are included in the POs repair.

It may also be why there were layers and layers of foam weather stripping at the top of the door. The drip rail seemed to keep the rain from getting in. Perhaps the door isn't too flat at the top after all, maybe the hole isn't curved correctly.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:24 PM   #12
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Rick,

I think that something like this may be my problem. I will look at your pics. Thanks. Sure hope I don't have to go that route.
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:44 AM   #13
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More Door Pics

I added a new folder to my web album just for the door. Here are some more door pics that may help identify the problem.

After reattaching the floor to the shell we are pleased with the side to side door alignment. We did not remove or replace the hinges only the pins and springs.
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DSCN9603.jpg   DSCN9604.jpg  

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Old 11-05-2012, 10:57 AM   #14
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Cat, as its looks like you are into this for a paint job regardless, Rick's suggestion of doing a couple of cuts into the roof at the top & upper side of the door and pushing it out and then patching with fiberglass back into position may not be that big a deal. The other option would be to cut and rebuild the door to fit ..... if you do a google search on this site you will see where some people have done that to fix warped doors but IMHO it looks to be *way* more work than Rick's fix suggestion.
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