Plywood Floor Replacement: Previous owner tried... and failed. - Fiberglass RV

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Old 07-29-2013, 04:44 PM   #1
Junior Member
Name: Vince
Trailer: Boler
Posts: 2
Plywood Floor Replacement: Previous owner tried... and failed.

Hey guys,
New here but I'm trying start work on a basket case Boler. I want to start with pulling the frame for repair and replacing the floor. The previous owner put in some plywood floors. They used fiberglass on the top edges and nothing below. The rear lines up well but the front looks like the wood may be to long to get the door wrapped around far enough at the bottom. I didn't get a photo from the top but you can see the wood with nothing holding it from below.

1. How were the wood floors supposed to be attached to the edge of the boler shell? Pictures would be great!
2. Does anyone have a template for the plywood (especially the front) so I can make replacements from original design?
3. Anyone have insite on my boler nameplate?

Big thanks for any help!

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Old 07-29-2013, 07:45 PM   #2
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Donna D.'s Avatar
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Posts: 24,540
Hi Vince, to FiberglassRV, we're glad you're here

You'll find lots of kind and helpful people here on the forums, I'm betting you'll get lots of help shortly.

Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:39 PM   #3
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Roy in TO's Avatar
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 4,960
Welcome to FGRV Vince,
Your second picture shows what many refer to as body bulge or door sag. It is well worth your time researching those here as well as threads on replacing the floor.

If you are pulling the frame, the wood at the door will become more obvious to you as that is attached solely to the frame. Wood elsewhere is attached to the body and then to the frame.

More pics would help, that door looks pretty close to the ground.
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:58 AM   #4
Higginra's Avatar
Name: Robert
Trailer: CT13
Posts: 78
Have you seen the utube video repair online

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Old 07-30-2013, 09:54 AM   #5
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 3,129
About the 5 minute mark of that video you can see the fiberglass strips being run up the wall a few inches and out onto the floor.

That is how scamp attaches wall to floor. Fiberglass strips used almost like tape along the floor/wall joint. Not a huge amount of overlap onto the floor, maybe a couple of inches at most from what I recall.

That video is simply amazing, wonderful, a true gift. Thanks to the person that created it and to you for posting it. This post is in my bookmarks.
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:18 AM   #6
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Name: Matt and Lindsey
Trailer: 1972 Boler 1300
British Columbia
Posts: 140
Hi and welcome,

We too have a GlassFab Boler and they are supposed to have the plywood floors glasses in top and bottom. It looks like either someone did not finish the job was cutting corners! We bought fiberglass cloth in 6" strips to glass ours in and we used West System Epoxy FG which someone recommended to us when we replaced the floors in our Boler. I highly recommend it as it is an easy product to work with.
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:12 PM   #7
Junior Member
Name: Vince
Trailer: Boler
Posts: 2
Thanks guys! It looks like the previous owner bailed on the project while installing the front plywood. They did a fairly good job on the rear stuff but I was planning to replace it all with composite flooring that won't rot. Problem is (see photos below) the previous owner did not copy the shape correctly for the front plywood because it doesn't seem to fit and obviously caused the first guy to give up. This is why I was hoping to find or buy a template of the correct plywood so I can shape the fibreglass shell around the right shape for a good end result. I have read about body bulge it does seem that this is the problem but I think it is due to a poor original repair. What do you guys think? The photos show the front section and the corners of the plywood where it meets the wall. My assumption is that the plywood should be wider on the drivers side to fill the hole (photo 2) and should not overlap the door opening as far on the passenger side (photo 1).
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