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04-16-2016, 03:00 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Oklahoma
Posts: 629
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Power Converter-Scamp wiring?
My 1978 Scamp 13 did not have a Power converter when I bought it, nor as far as I can determine none was never installed.
I have acquired a Paralax Power Components Model 3240 40 amp converter with automatic relay and floating feature.
It does not have a built-in 12-volt DC distribution panel. However, at present my Scamp does have a small 12-volt fuse panel/board.
There are three wires coming out of the converter. Data on converter case states one wire goes to the battery positive, one goes to the battery negative, and one goes to the load.
Here is a drawing of my simple 12-volts system. I have only 2 lights in the system, and one fuse. More fuses and lines can be added.
Scamp wiring drawing.jpg
Views: 38
Size: 49.0 KB
ID: 94275" style="margin: 2px" />
Click on drawing to enlarge.
What I'm unable to figure out is just where in such a simple system would the load wire would go! It seems to me that both that load wire and the the 12-volt positive wire from the battery should be attached to "A" at the fuse panel.
I'd appreciate any help anyone wishes to give because I do not understand the purpose of the load wire! Are most power converters output wires like this?
Bill
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04-16-2016, 06:16 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,156
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Perhaps this will help... just delete all the stuff you don't have.
http://scamp.n0kfb.org/Manual/electrical.jpg
Do you have the manual for your panel (fusebox)?
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04-16-2016, 07:40 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 140
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It's the Scamp Wiring 3.0 PDF
Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
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04-16-2016, 08:11 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaMScampers
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Nicely done except I think it could be misleading as it shows the 12 volt lights, fan and water pump wired to the (120 volt) AC side instead of the 12 volt DC side where they would be powered by the converter or battery.
I'm sure you wired it right, just that this is not really clear in the diagram.
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04-16-2016, 12:51 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Oklahoma
Posts: 629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2
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Thanks Gordon for the Scamp wiring drawing.
If I am reading the drawing correctly, there are main three wires coming out of the drawing's power converter that are not going to a fixture. The black wire is going to the battery positive line, and so is the blue wire. The white is the negative ground wire.
It appears that the wiring of the Scamp power converter and my converter is the same other than my converter has a red positive wire instead of a black positive wire.
It seems that Scamp power converter has the two positive 12-volts wires (black and blue) going indirectly to the 12-volt positive connection on the battery. If so, I should be able to do the same.
No fuse board manual.
Am I missing something here?
Bill
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04-16-2016, 12:53 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Oklahoma
Posts: 629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaMScampers
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Thank you David, I'll take a look.
Bill
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04-16-2016, 02:32 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,156
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Come to think of it, that diagram is not much help when looking at the converter.
Seems that the leftmost black wire in the converter is probably the converter 12 volt DC output and the right one is the input from the battery that goes to the fuses for the 12 volt loads. Since it is wired the way it is, the converter (+) output and battery (+) output are connected together to the converter (or power distribution) input and the fuses (+) side so that either can power the loads. The fuses I would expect to find basically between that higher right side black connection and the load connections. On my Scamp, that is all done in the power distribution center so there would be two boxes instead of just one as the diagram shows. Perhaps it will make sense when you are actually tinkering with it, but be sure you don’t hook up anything wrong.. there is a lot of power in the battery (I know for a fact due to human error).
The blue wire goes from the tow vehicle (brake controller) to the brakes, and that’s all.
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04-16-2016, 07:58 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Oklahoma
Posts: 629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2
Come to think of it, that diagram is not much help when looking at the converter......The blue wire goes from the tow vehicle (brake controller) to the brakes, and that’s all.
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Gordon, the data plate on my power converter states in reference to the Blue Wire coming out of the converter: "Blue: 12 volt + output for all other RV 12V DC circuits except those requiring filtered DC
current."
That suggests to me that if you needed filtered 12-volt power, you would need to to use the red wire (as shown on the scamp wiring drawing) for your 12V TV, radio, and stereos.
The data plate on my converter states: Red wire: To 12-volt + battery.
So if I only hooked up the Red wire to the battery +, and did not hook the blue wire to anything...what do you guys think would be the results?
Very confused Bill
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04-17-2016, 08:51 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,156
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OK I did what men hate to do and read the directions for your Paralax Power Components Model 3240. A few preliminaries however:
1. I see that they recommended series 7400, but I assume you want to use the older 32xx one that you already have so we will proceed under that assumption.
2. The blue wire I said goes to the brakes is on the Scamp wiring diagram. The blue wire from your converter is the output and not what I was talking about.
3. You said that your 3400 has the relay feature (which should show as option C). You also say that it has the float feature which to me implies it has the optional battery charger built-in.
4. There is quite a bit more to consider than will be covered herein so be sure and be familiar with all the documentation for the unit, which I believe you can find here under the Magnetek tab.
So the red wire goes to the battery (+) side, the blue wire goes to the “input” side of the fuse blocks (DC power distribution panel) which might be mounted on the converter or in a separate box). Yes, the colors will not match the trailer’s wires so be sure and check the polarity carefully. White is the ground (-) side.
Power will come from the battery or the converter depending on whether you are on shore (120 VAC) and go through the blue wire to the fuse block. The battery (+) might also be wired to the same "input" side of the fuse block. All the loads (lights, fans, etc.) should be wired to the other side of the fuses.
As for it being unfiltered, Parallax says this:
When 120 VAC is connected to Converter via commercial power of RV generator, Converter—via its Automatic Relay— [12 Volts DC from Power Converter] is instantly switched into the circuit to convert the 120 VAC to 12 VDC to run 12 volt lights and motors in RV. Equipment limited to operation from pure 12 volt battery power—including 12 volt TV’s, radios, stereos, unfiltered fluorescent lights—must be connected directly into RV storage battery line, or equipped with filter—as Converters do not produce the “pure” 12 volt DC needed by these items.
As I said before, mistakes can be very bad. One must really be “hands-on” with this to make sure it is done right so be sure of what you are doing or have someone who is qualified inspect it in person.
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04-17-2016, 05:23 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Oklahoma
Posts: 629
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Oh my! Gordon, that is great information!
Thank you very much for going over and above to furnish me with the information that I need. Thanks to your efforts I have a better understanding of the purpose of the BLUE wire.
You wrote: "So the red wire goes to the battery (+) side, the blue wire goes to the “input” side of the fuse blocks (DC power distribution panel) which might be mounted on the converter or in a separate box)."
Please understand my old brain is wore out and not in the best of condition, and it is having a problem understand the difference between running the red wire to the battery positive, or running the same red wire directly to the "input" side of the fuse block. There would/should already be a red wire attached to the "input" side of the fuse block that came directly from the battery's positive post. (see my drawing in post #1)
Running the power converter's red wire directly to the battery seems a redundancy to me. But, I have been wrong so many times in the past, so I will wire it that way.
Before I install the power converter in the Scamp, I think it would be wise for me to set up the converter on a work bench, with a battery and fuse panel, 12-volt motor or lights, etc., and run the converter for six or eight hours. That way, I might avoid burning up the Scamp!
Roger, thanks again!
Bill
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04-17-2016, 05:39 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 721
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Bill.
Maybe I can help a little. My Casita as a Parallax 6325 converter that also gets a lot of flap for being old but it works...
On my converter the three right most 12 volt fuse positions are for for devices needing pure 12 volts and I suspect the red wire provides that.
The remaining 12 volt fuses provide "rectified 12 volts" when on shore power. Otherwise they will be pure battery power when not on shore power.
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04-17-2016, 07:46 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Oklahoma
Posts: 629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Romas
Bill.
Maybe I can help a little. My Casita as a Parallax 6325 converter that also gets a lot of flap for being old but it works...
On my converter the three right most 12 volt fuse positions are for for devices needing pure 12 volts and I suspect the red wire provides that.
The remaining 12 volt fuses provide "rectified 12 volts" when on shore power. Otherwise they will be pure battery power when not on shore power.
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Thanks Joe for the information. It's nice knowing that some else has a Parallax converter...and it works OK!
Bill
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