power inlet installation question - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-19-2015, 04:54 PM   #1
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Name: David
Trailer: 2014 13' Scamp -standard w/ front bunk
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power inlet installation question

On my Scamp 13 (2014 model) I'd like to replace the factory-installed power cord pass-through (where you pull the cord out from the exterior) with a power inlet to eliminate the access for curious organisms that seem to find their way into small openings and eliminate the dirt that invariably comes into the storage area when the cord is returned. I'm looking for advice on which product will best fit the existing opening. Is there one that fits without cutting the fiberglass. I know that others have done this and will appreciate advice on how best to go about it.
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:26 PM   #2
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This is what I put on:
Power inlet dimensions needed
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:59 PM   #3
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You might want to get a 30 amp connector as I believe that's what your current shore power cord is set up as. Here is a typical unit. If you go to the MFG's site I am sure you can get the dimensions.
Marinco 30 Amp 125 Volt White Power Inlet 301EL B | eBay
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:27 PM   #4
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I'm not sure about your Scamp layout but on my Bigfoot the cord comes out of a compartment on the left side forward. I've thought about doing something on the outside to eliminate the small door but I would certainly want a connector that did not stick out on the side of the trailer. My concern would be snagging the cap for the inlet on bushes or plants when towing in some remote areas. A recessed compartment area on the side would solve this problem or I have also considered relocating the inlet to the rear of the trailer and turning the cord storage area into a utility storage area by adding an access door where the cord storage door is currently located. This is one of those projects that might never make it to the top of the "to do" list .
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:56 PM   #5
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Bob Miller has the answer. I put one of these on a Scamp 5r. It saved space under the storage area by eliminating all that heavy cord and it prevented the ants and other critters from getting in. Well worth it.
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Old 08-20-2015, 07:11 AM   #6
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Excellent - very helpful information. This is definitely on my fall project list. My appreciation to all of you who responded.
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:01 AM   #7
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I put one of these on my Boler.

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/..._p/vts-660.htm


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Old 08-20-2015, 08:03 AM   #8
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Thanks Raff. Interesting alternative - I hadn't seen it before.
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:19 AM   #9
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DAVID...

this is one of my top priorities and I plan to do it this fall or winter, at the same time I put in a hard wired surge protector.

If you do it, please post your experience and any tips, tricks, techniques and suggestions based on how it goes for you. thanks

PS. I have to say that the Furrion marine one, while very nice, is unneeded expense and overkill for a travel trailer (IMHO).
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:27 AM   #10
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This is how I did it. Works well. See picture at.Detachable Shore power mod, etc.

I chose to add a removable shore power cable like so many before me.
I made a plywood donut to fit in the Scamp's original shore power port and inserted a ParkPower 150BBIWRV 15 Amp White Power Inlet from Amazon at $20.00. Sealed it up with some sticky white sealer. All my loads will total less than 15 amp, usually far less. There is now no entry for water or little critters crawling up the cable. And the new #12 cable is about one third the size and weight of the factory choice, plus its twice as long.
I recently added a window AC. Its rarely used. It draws about 5 amps running and less than 15 starting so no problem with my changes. Voltage drop with 50 feet of cable is insignificant too, though I may throw in a 25 footer when I bring the AC along.

In the picture the dark ring around the parkpower inlet is the plywood ring/donut I made for a nice fit inside Scamps original inlet.
Attached Thumbnails
Scamp electrical 2.jpg   IMG_1208.jpg  

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Old 08-20-2015, 09:46 AM   #11
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Just be aware it is a close fit close fit if using the existing power cord hole. The newer Scamp round power cable cover is 4.5" in dia., mounting rivets are 4" and the shell hole appears to be 3.25". The outer Dia. of the Furrion is 4" with 3.45" for the screw mounting holes. With a backer plate and filling the current rivet holes (with white Marine-Tex.) you should be able to make the SS 30A Furrion connector work and have a factory like fit.
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:53 AM   #12
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Simplicity can be your friend.

To keep dirt out of the storage compartment an old towel works great. As the cord is push in wipe it down with a towel.
To keep thinks like spiders out there's spider spray that work great, just spray around the hole every couple months.
I also added a small partition to the compartment keeps the poser cords and hoses contained in the front part while sleeping bags get stored to the rear. The partition is simply a small piece of 1/4" plywood with attached to couple short pieces of 1x2 which is then attached to the floor of compartment.

The above has worked great for the last 10 years.
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Old 08-20-2015, 02:36 PM   #13
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I'm looking for advice on which product will best fit the existing opening. Is there one that fits without cutting the fiberglass. I know that others have done this and will appreciate advice on how best to go about it.[/QUOTE]

I found a 30 amp bulkhead connector at Menard's, or you can try any good Electrical supply store. I think the manufacturer is "Leviton"
It was a lot less $$$ than a marine type, which has to be water proof.
This one says it is rain proof with the lid closed.
I cut the existing Scamp cord and spliced it to the new connectors so I did not have to disturb the existing connections at the power center.
I used the original hole to locate the cargo door for access to the storage space.
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Old 08-20-2015, 06:34 PM   #14
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I have the same issue, I usually put in a access door where the power connector usually is like Wayne Collins did and just drill a new hole for a twist lock connector. On my current trailer the power cord is above the running light and I have to use the existing hole which is quite large. I think the SS Furrion connector from vintage trailer can cover up the existing hole if you make a backer plate.
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