Pre-painting prep - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-05-2009, 11:24 AM   #1
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Hi everyone,

So, I found a good airbrush artist and paint shop and just need to get the Compact JR ready and want to make sure I know what I'm getting into! I have gone thru Per Walthinsen's thread on sealing, butyl putty etc. but have some questions.
1--Do I need to pull off the wood trim around the windows to get to the otherside of the bolts thru the window frames?
2--I gather that WD40 will not hurt the paint, as long as it doesn't sit there forever? How about tricks to get off the old putty stuff?
3--any tricks about removing the door that anyone wants to share?
4--I'm assuming that taking out the front window will be a two person job?
5--I'm planning on using the current vinyl around the pop-up as a pattern to make a replacement, but should I leave the the rib that protects the pop-up from rubbing on the body on until I get it to the paint shop?

Any other hints, tricks, lessons anyone wants to share would be great!

Thanks,
Sharyl
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:18 PM   #2
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Quote:
Hi everyone,

So, I found a good airbrush artist and paint shop and just need to get the Compact JR ready and want to make sure I know what I'm getting into! I have gone thru Per Walthinsen's thread on sealing, butyl putty etc. but have some questions.
1--Do I need to pull off the wood trim around the windows to get to the otherside of the bolts thru the window frames?
2--I gather that WD40 will not hurt the paint, as long as it doesn't sit there forever? How about tricks to get off the old putty stuff?
3--any tricks about removing the door that anyone wants to share?
4--I'm assuming that taking out the front window will be a two person job?
5--I'm planning on using the current vinyl around the pop-up as a pattern to make a replacement, but should I leave the the rib that protects the pop-up from rubbing on the body on until I get it to the paint shop?

Any other hints, tricks, lessons anyone wants to share would be great!

Thanks,
Sharyl
Hmm I'll try to put my answers in the order you asked.
1. The screws holding the windows in go into the wood frames on the inside, so just pull the screws and the wood trim will fall off to the inside.
2. What are you using WD 40 for?? The old putty will come off with patience and I use a plastic/teflon type scraper.
3. Again, the door is held with screws going into the inside door frame. Take them out and the door will come out with a little persuasion--- old sticky putty is holding it. Again, your scaper will come into play.
4. yeah the front window will be a two person job.
5. Another thing you could is remove the trimlock (that's what the rib is called) and put a few soft rags/expendable towels in between to protec the fiberglass. That's what I would reccomend anyway to get it home from the paintshop... That way you can install the trimlock at your leisure--- the paint shop would do a hurry up job and besides you would be paying the shop rate to have it done. ($60 to $80 an hour)

Here's what one looks like ready for paint.....
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SANY0333__Small_.JPG  
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:39 PM   #3
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Here's what one looks like ready for paint.....
Thanks for the great info! This is the original paint and the front screws are very rusty, I think they might need a touch of WD40 to remember how to work. Would you transport with the top removed?

Sharyl
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:09 PM   #4
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Quote:
Here's what one looks like ready for paint.....


Thanks for the great info! This is the original paint and the front screws are very rusty, I think they might need a touch of WD40 to remember how to work. Would you transport with the top removed?

Sharyl
The screws are iron/steel if they are rusty.. They are going thru aluminum into wood... WD40 is a moot point in this case. By saying the top is removed, do you mean the whole thing (the fiberglass pop-up) or just the fabric? Either way, I wouldn't worry. I pulled mine gutted, no windows, top, door, cabinents, etc 5 miles to the house to wash the inside walls for paint with TSP (no water at my rental shop). I went about 50 MPH and it was all there when I arrived..... It was just like this photo- just threw a set of towing lights on.... Larry ( I'll bump up my looong disertation on my CJ Jr rebuild- since I don't know how to link it)
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:33 PM   #5
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For those that need help with hyperlinking other topics, please check out this tutorial:
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:17 PM   #6
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I don't have a CJ, but I remember reading where someone (on this forum, I think) used their old canvas for a pattern and -- because it was warped from age -- the new one made from it did not fit quite right.

Because of that, I would suggest taking measurements of the actual opening and making the new top from those instead of from the measurements of the old top.

There have been a few threads dealing with the CJ tops, and what others have done to re-make or improve them, and you might get some ideas from those that you would like to incorporate.

Raya
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Old 05-08-2009, 11:44 AM   #7
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As far as a top goes, I can make three comments, which I've already made in those threads Raya mentioned, so sue me

1. I wouldn't mess with trying to make a top myself; I'd take the trailer to an upholstery shop that handles boat tops; I'm sure they'd have no trouble at all making a new top.
2. My sister's Compact Jr. has a bungee cord running all around the canvas on the outside; it kinda automatically tucks the canvas away as you lower the top.
3. I'd suggest screened windows in the top, with canvas (or clear vinyl) flaps to zip or velcro over them in inclement weather.
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