Pre-purchase questions - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-28-2006, 05:52 PM   #15
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Trailer: 1972 Burro
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Thanks for the hitch link. I now understand how to tow the trailer level. Now I just have to decide to put tin the hitch in myself or pay someone. I have never pulled a trailer before so I hope the trailer brakes will give me an added messure of safety.
Next project locating a trailer.
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:41 PM   #16
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Trailer: Y2K6 Born Free 32RQ on the Kodiak chassis, 1995 Coachmen 19' B-van and 1996 Precision 21' Sailboat
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Hi,

We bought a 1974 Trillium 1300 a few weeks ago, and tow it with our 2006 Hyundai Tucson. It's a base 4 cyl 5 spd, rated to tow 1500 lbs here in Canada but only 1000 lbs in the USA (?? - go figure, but that's what the manufacturer's websites state).
It's simple, Paul. You've forgotten the conversion rate. There's one-point-five Canadian pounds to a U.S. pound.

Roger
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Old 09-30-2006, 10:47 AM   #17
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Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
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How many kilos does an average lawyer weight??????

Multiply that by .06835, then divide by 7. Thats the legal conversion ratio based on perambic possibilities of the hacnortly collapsing in the vortex in the States, but does not exist anywhere else.
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Old 10-01-2006, 01:22 AM   #18
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I believe it is a given that both Scamp and Casita have always ordered all their axles with brake flanges whether they had brakes installed originally -- It's easy to check, just look right by the back side of the wheel and you should see a small plate welded around the wheel axle with four holes drilled in it -- However, I know of at least one person who replaced the axle on a Scamp 13 and didn't order the brake flanges because he was pulling his egg with a heavy pickup truck and didn't think he'd ever need them -- Too bad for the next owner because the brake flange option adds less than $3 to the retail price of an axle...
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