problems with furnace - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-17-2015, 02:28 PM   #15
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From the schematic you have redundant gas valves wired in parallel. There should be 12V DC at both valves in order to get gas to the burner . Since both valves are fed from a common feed from the control board ,there must be a reason why one valve has 12 V and the other valve does not . The problem may be on the NEG or ground side of the valves. Are you getting spark from the igniter ?
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:51 PM   #16
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Hi, finally got to go through the troubleshooting guid, Got to the valves and one had 12 volts, the other was all over the place in voltages. The valves were marked + and - so I jumped them and turned it on. When I jumped the rear one it clicked, but unit did not cycle, when I jumped the front one, same thing. So what I figure is board is bad, not supplying enough current to click on the electric valves.what do you think? thanks Eric
Ignitors work fine. Don't think I'm getting enough current to trip solinoids? advise welcome. thanks Eric
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:52 PM   #17
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Going waaaay back, did you try jumpering the leads on the sail switch? Just because you show continuity doesn't necessarily mean that it can carry the current needed across it's contacts.


You mentioned that the 12 Volt reading at the solenoid was a bit flakey. Humor me and try jumping the sail switch leads. That switch probably provides more problems than all other problems combined.
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:54 PM   #18
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You might check continuity through your flame sensor , if flame sensor and sail switch have continuity , then I am afraid your board is the problem . Easy to fix but expensive .
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:28 PM   #19
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Sail Switch

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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Going waaaay back, did you try jumpering the leads on the sail switch? Just because you show continuity doesn't necessarily mean that it can carry the current needed across it's contacts.


You mentioned that the 12 Volt reading at the solenoid was a bit flakey. Humor me and try jumping the sail switch leads. That switch probably provides more problems than all other problems combined.
The sail switch is in series with the limit which in turn supply power to the control module. If the sail switch was not closing there would not be any power at the control module to power the ignitor or the gas valves .Since the ignitor is working and there is power to the gas valves it appears the sail switch is closing ,whether the contact in the sail switch is good is another question. Jumpering out the sail switch would eliminate that part of the circuit as the source of the problem. If the sail switch contact has high resistance ,you may not be getting full voltage to the control module ,gas valves and the ignitor especially under load . Low voltage systems are very sensitive to voltage drop across relay and switch contacts .
Solenoid have 2 different currents -pull in and hold. It takes more current to pull in a solenoid and less current to hold it in the energized position
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:07 PM   #20
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furnace problems

Well I tried that,didn't make any diference. rechecked and it is fireing, it seems the solinoids come on for a second or 2 then shut off. I can feel them click in, but they don't stay on long enough to get propane maybe. Anyway thanks again, is the timer for the solinoid in the board? thanks Eric
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Old 05-18-2015, 05:25 PM   #21
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The furnace should try to ignite three times , if it fails then should shut down . What do you mean by [ it is firing ] ? Just sparking or actually firing up ? If it does not light and the solenoid is opening then it does not have a gas supply [air in the line ] or bad line or regulator . If it lights and goes out - faulty flame sensor .
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Old 05-18-2015, 05:54 PM   #22
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Ok, it does not light, just sparks. Seems valve come on for a very short time. voltages are all over when this is happeneing. It does cycle three times. thanks Eric
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:54 AM   #23
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You need to make sure that your valves open if they get proper voltage - disconnect leads and connect a direct power supply to the solenoids - you may want to use compressed air rather than propane for safety . If they do open but do not open when connected to the unit , then the problem is in your board . If they do not open under either case then the problem is the solenoids . Both items are readily available on E_Bay or Vintage Trailer Supplies .
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Old 05-19-2015, 11:47 AM   #24
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Thanks Bob, hooked up 12 volts independently, and can't hear any air going through the burners. should I pull it off the unit and try again, or just order a set of valves.thanks Eric
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:13 PM   #25
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OK I took the valve out, doesn't work. Took it apart and I can't find anything wrong with it . Eric
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:38 PM   #26
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You can check the valve coil windings for continuity with an ohm meter -- Check the polarity on the coils versus the wiring -- Energies the valve coil with 12 V and touch a small screw driver to the valve stem ,you should feel magnetism -- Make sure the valve plunger works freely and there is no corrosion on the plunger and spring .If all else fails buy a new valve
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:52 PM   #27
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I tested everything, the solinoids pull the valves off the seat fine, the diaprame looks great, just won't release gas, can't figure why it won't work. checked ebay and they don't have a valve that looks like that. I'm concerned that the board is bad too because it won't hold the valves open for but a second. Maybe this thing is not worth fixing? thanks again.Eric
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Old 05-19-2015, 04:34 PM   #28
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The valves should not stay open very long , just long enough to get a spark - if they stayed open longer the next time it sparked you would have an explosion . Also if the valves are opening you will not get a great gush of air through it - it is a very small oriface so a very small flow - try soapy water on the outlet see how much bubbling you get .
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