Originally Posted by Johnny M
That has been considered but before I start removing it I want to make sure it is not just an adhesive issue. Also we tested some reflectix with similar results in fact the reflectix separated from itself - the inner and outer layers delaminated. Scamp
says they use a Sta-put product and add red dye to it (I am guessing so they can tell if a surface has been completely covered with the stuff. The styrofoam is doing its job of insulating better than reflectix when testing with a laser thermometer in afternoon sun but with the trailer closed up and no AC running the sun coming in the windows
gets the temperature up high enough that I believe that is what is causing the adhesive failure and I can't help but think it would do the same even if there was reflectix under the headliner. The only thing I can see that will change is no styrofoam to eat up with other adhesives but will the headliner stay up?
I guess I will have to repeat these facts about reflective insulation over and over again in this forum until people understand what they ought not to be doing. You do need to get some basic understanding of thermodyamics as it regards reflective and radiant insulation installation requirements if you are going to DIY your insulation.
If you use spray adhesive on Reflectix or shiny aluminum it will completely loose its ability to reflect heat. That is easy to visually see right? The spray glue obviously is making the surface dull, no longer shiny, no longer reflective like it is supposed to be. So yes of course you are not going to see good thermal results from it when you apply it to the ceiling with spray glue on one, or most often the way I have seen people in this forum doing it, putting glue on both surfaces. When you do the spray glue thing all you are left with for insulation is the air in the bubbles. Quit wasting your time and money on the product if you are not going to apply it correctly.
As to using a surface material to create a radiant barrier such as aluminum foil, those only work if they are not in direct contact with materials on both sides. They can only work if there is an adjacent air space and it will only do the radiant reflection on the shiny side facing towards the air gap.
The reflextic product is intended to be installed with staples onto wood rafters. No glue on it and there has to be an air gap on both sides of it. Just because you can physically buy it, cut it and glue it up onto a fiberglass ceiling does not mean that you are going to get good results doing it that way. In fact you will have destroyed the product doing that.
You don't have to take my word for it the product web sites will tell you how it has to be installed to work. There are also discussions on these facts on many government sponsored web sites that deal with energy use and conservation.
And if there are trailer manufature companies out there improperly using these products and then telling you how well insulated they have made the unit then shame on them because intentionally or unintentionally you are being conned into believing something that is not true in the world of physical science.