Progressive Dynamics PD-6911 - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-25-2006, 08:58 PM   #15
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Trailer: 1978 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 31
Quote:
Lots of people run their "Flamingo" Patio lights from the awning to the campground power box via extension cord. It's the KISS principle.
My RV plug *is* a regular plug, not a 20A plug or anything special...and I do plug my awning lights in via an extension cord direct to the power pole.

I'm going to take the converter out of it's hole in the cabinetry this week, but the easiest, and least expensive solution, as well as the solution that requires the least modification to the trailer, sounds like it is going to be the one where I disconnect the outlets from the converter, split the power feed upstream of the converter, and run a breaker box between the power and the outlets, and run the converter off the other side of the split. Hopefully there's room inside the cabinet where the converter is to store the breaker box as well as the converter, so no cabinet cutting will be required...although I may end up putting the breaker box under the seat or something so I can actually quickly access it should the breaker get tripped.

Daisy
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Old 12-26-2006, 04:25 PM   #16
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
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Quote:
My RV plug *is* a regular plug, not a 20A plug or anything special...and I do plug my awning lights in via an extension cord direct to the power pole.

I'm going to take the converter out of it's hole in the cabinetry this week, but the easiest, and least expensive solution, as well as the solution that requires the least modification to the trailer, sounds like it is going to be the one where I disconnect the outlets from the converter, split the power feed upstream of the converter, and run a breaker box between the power and the outlets, and run the converter off the other side of the split...
If the outlet for the kitchen appliance(s) needs 15 A all by itself, then [b]one 15A circuit feeding the whole trailer won't be enough, and it seems to me that you will need to upgrade your incoming service cord and plug from 15A to something greater (presumably 30A).

If all of the power coming into the trailer is going to be on that one 15A cord, then I think it would make sense to just ensure that a 15A breaker (whether it is a household style or auto/RV push-to-reset panel-mounted breaker) feeds the outlet in the current system.
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Old 12-28-2006, 03:54 PM   #17
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Here's a post to another group that might be of interest here.

Pete

QUOTE
Thought I'd mention a couple of good deals that I've come across.

One is at Progressive Dynamics, one of best converter/charger makers,
IMHO. They have plenty of factory refurbs at great prices:


https://www.progressivedyn.com/hotdeals.html


Their stock waxes and wanes so I thought I'd mention that they have a
practically full line available. I just ordered another 9180A, the 80
amp version with the Charge Wizard built in. I keep one around as a
high power, intelligent battery charger that works without having to
press any buttons.


Northern has a sale going on that sweet little 2-stroke generator that
I've mentioned before:


http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...oduct_6970_20...


I bought one of these several years ago from a ChiCom tool vendor at a
fleamarket. A veritable workhorse that will handle significant
overload, especially if frequency isn't terribly important. I've used
mine with the 60 amp Intellipower in my MH and as of the last couple
of weeks, in my semi truck to charge the BAAGM (big assed AGM) battery
I installed to run my electric blanket and other accessories when I'm
on a multi-day layover. When underway, I plug the Intellipower into
my 1500 watt inverter to charge the BAAGM. Does a very fast,
intelligent charge from the engine electrical system.


The BAAGM approach is a good one for operating moderate power drain
loads overnight. I plug the electric blanket (5.5 amps) and the
laptop converter (about the same) into it when I hit the sack. At 120
AH, it has the capacity to run both for the 6-8 hours I sleep without
impacting the truck batteries at all.


The truck has a low voltage cut-off that inconveniently cuts power to
everything at about the 6 hour point when I try to run these loads on
the main battery (4 8C truck batteries) system. I just stuck the
BAAGM under my bunk and mounted a series of cig lighter sockets to the
top of the battery using GM VHB double sided adhesive tape. The
Intellipower and the inverter sit right beside it.


This might be a good solution in an RV for similar situations. The
BAAGM can be placed under the bed, as space permits, and run the
electric blanket, etc., without affecting the main house batteries.


The Intellipower at full chat into a dead battery pulls right at 1100
watts from the line. This little generator handles it just fine. It
slows down a little (frequency drops to about 56-57 hz) but the
voltage stays up just fine and the Intellipower couldn't care less
about frequency.


Anyway, add some of the smokeless two stroke oil now available
(Northern has it.) and the generator is practically indistinguishable
from a 4-stroke. Not Honda EU quiet but not bad.


I should note that this generator is currently listed in the Chatta
store for $149 but they'll honor the web price if you ask. Not bad,
web price and no shipping.


I just bought a second one dedicated to the semi truck. Gotta fab a
frame rack for it while I'm off on Christmas Vacation. I'm about to
buy a third generator to disassemble and rewind for 12 volts and
convert it to a CBC.


John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
Don't let your schooling interfere with your education-Mark Twain
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Old 01-02-2007, 10:46 AM   #18
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Here is the 'Factory'' answer.

Back in the 70's, none of today's conveniences were available. The 15 amp breaker was sufficient to run 'everything one could wish for'. - Except the roof A/C unit.

The solution is the same as for air conditioning. Cooking appliances are high amp draw devices which require an electrical upgrade similar to the following:

Replace the 15 amp power cord with a 30 amp one. (Do not connect back to the converter.)
Install a small 2 circuit breaker box in the angled portion of the seat next to the kitchen - about 8" - 12" above the floor. Readily available from electric shops or Home Depot.
Install a new 15 amp outlet convenient to the place where you use the new appliances.
From one of the circuit breakers, run a wire back to the power converter. BTW, from the problem description, it seems to be working correctly. The button that pops out is a resetable breaker. Probably hard to find as a replacement so many years later.
From the other circuit breaker, run a wire to the new outlet for the portable appliances.

Check the wattage on the appliances you want to run. Do not run more than 1800 watts at one time. (15 amps).

This all assumes that you are experienced/comfortable with AC wiring, and cutting fiberglass. If not, then these directions should be taken to a qualified RV service dealer and done.

The method above was done at the factory for trailers with the A/C option. It was CSA, UL, & RVIA approved.


Tom Young
Trillium RV
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