Propane copper pipe corrosion - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-16-2013, 05:11 PM   #15
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It's not cracked that I know of, I just want to check. Supposedly, this furnace has never been turned on in 28 years, except possibly for the first few years.
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:16 PM   #16
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The brass fitting the copper line is attached to, is causing your problem.
You have discerning types of metals. The chemical reaction between the two, is the green buildup you are seeing.
You may need to look at it again in another 28 years.
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:16 PM   #17
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It's not cracked that I know of, I just want to check. Supposedly, this furnace has never been turned on in 28 years, except possibly for the first few years.
Sorry- guess I misread your post. If there aren't any visible cracks I wouldn't worry about the manifold being "cracked".

Especially since you think the furnace hasn't been used in so long, I definitely recommend a complete gas system pressure test once you've got all your new appliances installed. And do remember in your remodeling that all propane joints must be accessible for inspection for exactly this reason: if the test detects any leakage, joints are the most likely place one will find the source.

Francesca
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:55 PM   #18
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Thanks everyone. I like the distribution box Tom. May get several. I intend on using the mini-fuse with LED indicators, so I will have a fuse panel as well. I am going to take a scrubbie pad and wipe across the corrosion til I get back down to bare copper and then look to see if there is any pitting. The whole camper is gutted so not opposed to replacing it but didn't want to if not needed. Anything suspect and I will replace. Will have to check and see if there are any poly substitutes(?) or continue to use copper. I had an explosive gas and CO detector in my old camper and well worth the $50 bucks. Lost two dear friends 3 years ago when she forgot to turn off the car in the garage. Never woke up. Anyway a bit off subject but germane to gas safety inside the camper.
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:59 PM   #19
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The brass fitting the copper line is attached to, is causing your problem.
You have discerning types of metals. The chemical reaction between the two, is the green buildup you are seeing.
You may need to look at it again in another 28 years.
Thanks Mike on the metal reaction. Missed the reply from you as I scrolled down. Makes sense as lots of copper pipe gets wet but normally dont necessarily see sulphates like that. Good catch.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:33 PM   #20
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Thanks Mike on the metal reaction. Missed the reply from you as I scrolled down. Makes sense as lots of copper pipe gets wet but normally dont necessarily see sulphates like that. Good catch.
Doubt if it is the Brass causing the problem. Copper and brass only differ about .05V on the Galvanic series which is why all copper tubing uses brass fittings to keep corrosion down. I suspect the culprit is the blue scotch connector between the grey tubing. it appears that its metal crimp connector is on the bottom which could come in contact with judging from the color of the flake board wet conditions. add 12-14V and you can get a pipe of different color, add 120V and things could get interesting. since the corrosion only appears to be where it is in contact with the carper and the brass nut on the tubing is also in that area but the brass fitting is not it is likely the effects of stray current. Of course the fitting could have been changed out by the PO just to befuddle us.
Blue color can also indicate copper carbonate and several other copper salts some soluble and some not so much
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:49 PM   #21
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So now you have a sacrificial anode.
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Old 03-16-2013, 09:59 PM   #22
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Sorta. We have just substituted voltage for a more Nobel metal, the lower ones always are sacrificed
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:14 PM   #23
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I love the dialog and exchange. I majored chemistry in college in 66 until I failed it. I then realized it was not my calling. So into Electronics. It is possible that the prior owner spilled her Lime Rickey onto the copper pipe in the closet looking for her fox fur wrap- that would be just a guess at this juncture BUT I love the discourse of answers and solutions. Thats what makes this forum great. The citric acid of the lime caused a chemical reaction which resulted in CuO (s) +CH3COOH >> CuSO4 (aq) + H2O (l) ............ Just kidding guys but YOU are the best and please keep the responses coming as they are all appreciated. I will make sure that pipe is 100% before I cover it up for the next 28 years
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:47 AM   #24
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Probably was best to go into electronics, however your unique chemical reactions could have made you a fortune if you could just overcome the laws of nature.
I too started out in chemistry an made a tolerable living out of it until I sold out for $ and went over to the"dark side" to become an engineer.
. Actually all the speculation is what keeps some of these threads fun. Just think if you had just replaced the copper tube everyone would still think lime juice contained citric acid lol.
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:56 AM   #25
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So can you chemists explain the reaction between copper line and concrete floors. When I worked for a fuel company doing both fuel oil and propane service and installation I sometimes found similar corrosion on the soft copper line we used for both. I assumed it was mostly due to moisture, but it has now become common practice to NOT bury a copper line in concrete. I only did this work for a few years, and in that time found just a couple cases of either a fuel or propane leak in a copper line. In those few instances, the line either laid on a concrete floor or dirt. We used a manometer [ U shaped tube with water in it ] to check for propane leaks.
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:21 AM   #26
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Levitttown was a post wwII housing community with 2br homes for under $5k for returning
military. They buried their heat copper lines for radiant heat in the cement floors. Problem, the lime in the cement eventually ate holes in the copper and 20 years later most of the homes had to install conventional heat systems.
Radiant in floor heat systems are great, I have one in my home built in 1947. However this home has the cast iron pipes surrounded by gravel under hardwood floors. There is no reaction between the two. The downside is it takes about 2-3 hours to heat up, but once warm it stays warm.
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:22 PM   #27
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I too started out in chemistry an made a tolerable living out of it until I sold out for $ and went over to the"dark side" to become an engineer.


That- that's the path my Very Own Husband took! I had no idea there could be more than one of him...unless....

Honey, is that you?

Francesca
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:16 PM   #28
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When I was a kid I wanted to grow up and be like Mr. Wizard on TV. Instead I turned into more of a Howdy Doody. I did love princess winterfall summer spring though.
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