Purchasing a 1994 Lite House Trailer for Two need ideas - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-26-2012, 10:22 PM   #15
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Deloris - let's start with the converter. It serves as the power control system for your camper and has a 120 volt A/C section and a 12 volt DC section. Under your drivers side bench seat there should be a 12 volt deep cycle battery in a "sealed" compartment. The lights, the fan and, if you have one, the water pump all run on 12 volts. Next to the battery box, there should be a big heavy power cord. It plugs into a normal electrical outlet at the campground. The converter has a GFCI and a 15 amp circuit breaker on the left side of the converter. There is a 110 volt duplex outlet next to the converter and a second one on the driver side under the seat near the front bulkhead.

The 12 volt battery power is also controlled by the converter. There is a three position switch on the right hand side. The center position is off. The other two positions provide 12 volts to the interior lights, porch light, fan and ,water pump. In one direction, the 12 volt power is supplied by the battery. In the other direction, the
12 volt power is supplied by a device that "converts" 120 volt AC from the campground plug into 12 volts DC to run the lights, etc. in the trailer. That way, you can still have lights and a fan if your battery is dead.

The LiteHouse converter, unlike models in newer campers, does not include a battery charger. We dry camp at music festivals sometimes so I've beefed up the 12 volt by replacing the propane tank with two batteries on the tongue. I use a BatteryMinder to keep my cells charged. In powered campgrounds, I charge my batteries during the day and turn off the converter at night. The damn thing has an annoying hum.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:30 PM   #16
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I'm curious what's hidden behind the checkered curtain under your stove. In my LiteHouse, there is a useless icebox there.
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:02 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Davie B View Post
I'm curious what's hidden behind the checkered curtain under your stove. In my LiteHouse, there is a useless icebox there.
Hidden under the checkered curtain was the second of only two requirements I put on my "must have" list -1. a place to sleep and 2. a potty - a Port-a-Potty fits right in the opening and has room for the little bottles of chemical.
I will be carrying an ice chest in my Ford Escape and probably sit it outside the door of the trailer when camping. Later I plan to add a tiny microwave - I do almost no cooking anymore. The couch along the back is wghere I have my bed, so I won't have to take down the table or move anything at night. Have a little 4 cup coffee maker, for my morning cup and for hot water for my evening tea. I plan to stay in state/national parks or private parks that have showers/bathrooms, too. I no longer will be camping "in the boonies" as we used to do - and loved! So...that is what is hidden behind the checked curtain, plus lots of useless information .
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:21 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Davie B View Post
Deloris - let's start with the converter. It serves as the power control system for your camper and has a 120 volt A/C section and a 12 volt DC section. Under your drivers side bench seat there should be a 12 volt deep cycle battery in a "sealed" compartment. The lights, the fan and, if you have one, the water pump all run on 12 volts. Next to the battery box, there should be a big heavy power cord. It plugs into a normal electrical outlet at the campground. The converter has a GFCI and a 15 amp circuit breaker on the left side of the converter. There is a 110 volt duplex outlet next to the converter and a second one on the driver side under the seat near the front bulkhead.

The 12 volt battery power is also controlled by the converter. There is a three position switch on the right hand side. The center position is off. The other two positions provide 12 volts to the interior lights, porch light, fan and ,water pump. In one direction, the 12 volt power is supplied by the battery. In the other direction, the
12 volt power is supplied by a device that "converts" 120 volt AC from the campground plug into 12 volts DC to run the lights, etc. in the trailer. That way, you can still have lights and a fan if your battery is dead.

The LiteHouse converter, unlike models in newer campers, does not include a battery charger. We dry camp at music festivals sometimes so I've beefed up the 12 volt by replacing the propane tank with two batteries on the tongue. I use a BatteryMinder to keep my cells charged. In powered campgrounds, I charge my batteries during the day and turn off the converter at night. The damn thing has an annoying hum.

Hope this helps.
What great info - now must spend part of my day tomorrow checking out this new information and seeing if I can make it work! The air conditioner must be on its own electric current, since it runs when I have the electric plug in. By the way, John had installed the "big" plug in outside for our big trailer (that is "permanently parked" at the lake), but am wondering if I need to get an adapter in case the parks/campgrounds have the smaller outlet ?). Now back to converter, yes I saw the case I think was the battery under the bench on drivers side - but my camper has a solar panel - do the all? I think it charges the battery? I going to try to post pics I took of the converter panel and hopefully you can see if it works the same as yours. Thanks so much for the tutorial - it is excellent! - and I do apologize if I keep asking questions. I will keep trying because I am determined to use the camper! Just have to get past the "newbie" stuff and I find the older I get the harder it is to take on challenges and admit I don't understand how something works!
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:41 AM   #19
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The solar panel was, according to the bill of sale I found in the trailer, a LiteHouse option. It is only a "charge maintainer" and not powerful enough to charge a dead battery. Since it's so small, there is no charge controller. There was a diode in the line to prevent the panel discharging the battery when it's dark outside.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:29 PM   #20
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My running lights are now working! Next, the leaks and checking out the operation of the converter/solar panel. First, question about repairing leaks around solar panel and fan/vent. I thought silicon caulking was the perfect answer, then read threads and find that is NOT what I need to use (I kept the receipt, so I can return this weekend!). But WHAT do I use to put around those seams?? And where do I find it?? Also, I have a place where a bolt or screw is missing on the side - how do I replace that or do I use that special caulk that I hope to find for the leak? And there is also a "button" missing on another bolt/screw. Where do I find replacement for that? So many questions, so little time... I so appreciate all the help from those of you who have traveled this journey and know what to do!
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Old 08-31-2012, 01:33 PM   #21
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Figure out where the leaks actually are. Remove any suspicious looking old caulk. Repair any holes with a West System fiberglass repair kit. Use Dicor Lap sealant as a caulk to seal seams and screw heads. It's important to remove any silicone first. West System kits come with enough stuff to repair a few small holes. You want the small cheap kits; not the ones made for building a boat. . Dicor comes in a tube made for a caulk gun. Amazon has Dicor. BOth companies are happy to talk with you on the phone.
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Old 09-11-2012, 03:17 PM   #22
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Leaks hopefully repaired (old caulk taken off, sealant applied) and my inside lights are now working, thanks to info about converter, etc. I think I am ready to take it on the road on its maiden voyage, but life got in the way of my "want to" this weekend, so will have to wait another week to take on road. I am sooo anxious to go! Glamored it up a little, packed it with odds and ends I thought I might need (carefully - didn't put things like I had loaded in our trailer at lake that have never used) and now think I am ready to roll. She is now "Miss Daisy" - as in "Drivin' Miss Daisy" and I hope to do a lot of drivin' ! This has all taken much longer than I had anticipated, but is well worth the time and the wait to get everything up and running.
BTW, there is a big box (fuse box?) as big as the battery under the bench on the driver's side of the trailer alongside of the battery. Thought the fuses were on the Carson converter console, but these must be different?? Should I try to take a pic of it, or does someone on board know what it is already? Don't suppose I need to do anything with it, since everything seems to be working....
Thanks again for help and encouragement from everyone!
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:06 PM   #23
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Deloris - please post a photo. Is there any sort of data plate/model number on it?
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:06 PM   #24
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Deloris - please post a photo. Is there any sort of data plate/model number on it?
Sorry. That should have been Doloris.
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:18 PM   #25
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Dolores, it's good to take a relatively short trip for your first trailer camp-out. That way you are not too far from home if you discover something is wrong, you forgot something important, etc. First trips can sometimes be rocky. But then again, sometimes everything goes smoothly.

We have plenty of nice state park campgrounds around the state. Greenleaf, Robber's Cave, and Red Rock Canyon are some of my faves.
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Old 09-16-2012, 12:58 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Magee
Dolores, it's good to take a relatively short trip for your first trailer camp-out. That way you are not too far from home if you discover something is wrong, you forgot something important, etc. First trips can sometimes be rocky. But then again, sometimes everything goes smoothly.

We have plenty of nice state park campgrounds around the state. Greenleaf, Robber's Cave, and Red Rock Canyon are some of my faves.
I think I may try Red Rock Canyon! Took kids there years ago and we all enjoyed it. It isn't that far from home and should be nice this time of year. Thanks for the suggestion....will post after first trip out.
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:14 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davie B

Sorry. That should have been Doloris.
Hello again - am going to try to attach pics of "strange box" . Including pic of converter control, battery box hookup and what I think is a fuse box. I do have my converter working, and all three lights are good - haven't tried plug-ins. Think my air conditioner must be wired straight to outside electric because it runs when trailer plugged in to electricity though lights have to use converter. No leaks when it rained this week. Woo-hoo!! Am cautious about propane/stove so haven't turned on - will be getting someone else knowledgeable to check that part out - the only thing left to test! Thanks for your great advice and explanations - all so appreciated, as I work my way through this journey. I am SO glad I jumped off the deep end and got my baby camper!!! The hassle is minimal when compared to the excitement of conquering each new challenge.
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Old 09-16-2012, 06:30 PM   #28
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The converter is limited to 15 amps. It looks like, in order to have enough amperage for the AC, a higher amperage service was added to your trailer. I suspect that the original converter is connected to one of the breakers in the mystery box which is a small AC breaker panel. Can you please upload a photo of your plug to this thread. It's the thing on the end of the extension cord you use to plug your trailer into the power outlet at the campground.
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