Putting Tires on? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-19-2012, 01:49 PM   #15
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Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
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This thread should give you some idea of costs:
Installed Axle cost Vancouver, Canada

Link to Paul Neumeister in Ontario:
Fibreglass RV Parts, Repairs, and Service by Paul Neumeister
He sell the axles mentioned in the above thread but is also a good source for some other parts you may need.

Escape trailers in BC:
http://escapetrailer.com/Home.aspx

If you don't go with Escape in BC to install - consider the costs of bolt on brackets and brake flanges. Both will make things easier in the future if you want to do other things. Hopefully your welder understands the axles.

Cerka in Ontario has an order form that tells you what measurements you need. Many have suggested a 10 degree down. Go here:
http://www.cerka.ca/downloads.asp
and down load the Dexter, Al-Ko and Flexiride order forms to get an idea.
Be forwarned that they all have different suggested start angles and different arm lengths on the torsion axles.
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:10 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by shelley w View Post
Oh trust me, I read, digested and regurgitated it!
... to purchase what I was told were the right tires only to find out they aren't is a harsh blow.
Regurgitated that does not sound very pleasant.

The tires might be right if your axle was OK. Who ever is doing the welding on your trailer should be able to calculate what you need.

You need at least 3" clearance from the top of the wheel well. Add to that 1/2 the diameter of the tire and that should tell you where the loaded position of the spindle should be. From that you use the charts to determine the angle of the torsion axle. You have a bit of play by picking the type of mounting brackets. They typically give you 0", 1" and 3" lift. If you need more, you may have to weld in a spacer.
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:27 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Regurgitated that does not sound very pleasant.
I just meant that I went on and on about it to my husband.

I'm about a 10 hr drive (each way) from Vancouver so taking it to Escape is not an option, nor can I afford a $600+ bill to purchase and install. Clearly, I won't be taking my Boler on holidays this year I'm a little sad about that since it was to be our first family vacation in 12 yrs.
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:33 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by shelley w View Post
........ I'm a little sad about that since it was to be our first family vacation in 12 yrs.
But not sad enough to try the simple suggestion that I made many posts back.
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:42 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by shelley w View Post
We needed tires to haul the frame in to be looked at/repaired so it's disappointing to know that these tires probably won't work for my Boler.
Do you have the old tires/rims? It is hard to tell if you changed the rims as well. Can you borrow or buy a smaller used set of mounted tires to use temporarily to get it into the shop? How about piggy backing your boler on a flatbed trailer to the shop? Once in the shop they can weld in metal to raise the trailer.

If you still have the original spare, you only need one replacement to get it to the shop.

What is your bolt pattern? The original 4 on 4 or 5 on 4 1/2?
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:36 PM   #20
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Reradius the wheelwells. Remember fender skirts? One fellow I know made them square with radiused corners.. it looked great, but it is also easy to simply follow the same line as the original... removing an appropriate amount of material.
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Old 06-19-2012, 04:02 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Shelly,

A new axle, with brakes is ~$400. Installation is extra. You will need a welder.
I just replaced the axle on my Scamp 16 . The cost was about $575.00 for the axle with brakes installed at the Scamp factory. I know the cost is a barrier but if you replace the axle you might as well get brakes , the cost is not that much more . I am sure you can find away to get by until your finances improve and not have to write off the summer. I suggest you listen to Tom, he usually gives pretty good advice.. Life is too short to sit at home and be unhappy
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:13 PM   #22
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I guess I'm missing something. Have you though about installing the new tires on the old offset rims?
That 1/2" may be enough to get you by until you can replace the axle.
At worst case, down size to 12" tires and wheels. The 5.35 x 12" may work great.
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:41 PM   #23
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Shelley

I had the same problem when I had new Carlisle 175/80-13 ST trailer tires put on my original 1977 Scamp rims. I could not get the wheel on the hub because the tire was jammed against the inside of the fiberglass body. The tire store would not remount the 14 year old passenger car tires back on my rims.

I now had a trailer in the garage stuck up in jack stands. At the very least I needed to move the trailer out of my garage. I let the air out of the new tires. They are very flexible when you to that. They went right on the axle.

I have a 5 hp air compressor in the garage so inflating the tires is not a problem at home. I then carried a 12 volt air compressor with me whenever I went camping just in case I had a flat tire on the road. Getting the flat tire off the trailer would not be a problem but I would have to inflate the spare tire once it was on the axle. I never had a flat tire but I was prepared.

I put a new Flexiride axle underneath my Scamp this spring and it is now about 4 inches higher that it was. The tires go on the axle without any interference from the body.

Here are pictures of my Scamp with the original axle and the new one.

I hope this helps,

Jeff
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_3110a.jpg   IMG_6613a.jpg  

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Old 06-19-2012, 11:46 PM   #24
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But not sad enough to try the simple suggestion that I made many posts back.
I did start to deflate the tires Thomas, but then it started pouring and it got dark so we came indoors. I certainly can continue with that suggestion, but even if we get them on, there is no guarantee that they won't rub (and if they aren't going to work on my Boler, I'd rather not use them so we can sell them again as new). Clearly the axle needs to be replaced since the torsion arms don't even move. That's an expense I don't think I can afford at the moment, and I'm not willing to take it on the road if the frame/axle isn't checked and safe.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:51 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Do you have the old tires/rims? It is hard to tell if you changed the rims as well. Can you borrow or buy a smaller used set of mounted tires to use temporarily to get it into the shop? How about piggy backing your boler on a flatbed trailer to the shop? Once in the shop they can weld in metal to raise the trailer.

If you still have the original spare, you only need one replacement to get it to the shop.

What is your bolt pattern? The original 4 on 4 or 5 on 4 1/2?
We do have the rims that were on it - one looks like those we just bought and the other is an original. Both are 5 bolt pattern (what does 4 1/2 stand for?) I've been looking for a set of tires to use temporarily to limp it to the shop, but so far no luck and neither of those that were on it will stay inflated long enough to take it anywhere other than across the driveway, but I'm sure we'll figure something out to get it to the shop. May be a moot point though since we can't afford to put in a new axle. It's really my fault - I should have guessed that the axle would need replacing since it is original.

You've all been a tremendous help with your suggestions. Thank you.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:53 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
Reradius the wheelwells. Remember fender skirts? One fellow I know made them square with radiused corners.. it looked great, but it is also easy to simply follow the same line as the original... removing an appropriate amount of material.
I had considered this at one time, but doesn't it make the body weaker without the little extra lip there? Or do you glass one in once cut? We decided we like the original arc.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:56 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
I just replaced the axle on my Scamp 16 . The cost was about $575.00 for the axle with brakes installed at the Scamp factory. I know the cost is a barrier but if you replace the axle you might as well get brakes , the cost is not that much more . I am sure you can find away to get by until your finances improve and not have to write off the summer. I suggest you listen to Tom, he usually gives pretty good advice.. Life is too short to sit at home and be unhappy
The cost definitely is a barrier for a number of reason and we would have to save up for that much. We will still go on vacay, just without the Boler. I'll go back to read all of Tom's posts again. Thanks.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:07 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by mszabo View Post
I guess I'm missing something. Have you though about installing the new tires on the old offset rims? That 1/2" may be enough to get you by until you can replace the axle. At worst case, down size to 12" tires and wheels. The 5.35 x 12" may work great.
No, we didn't think of putting the new tires on the old rims, but would that matter? The rims are the same size and only one has the offset.

I think we are going to take the shell off the frame, put the new tires on and drag the frame in to the shop. Hopefully they can tell us if the axle needs replacing, what we need to do that, what it will cost and if the tires/rims we bought will work. If not, we'll have to deal with it then. I will have to go dig up data on what the clearances are and angles and all that.
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