Putting Tires on?

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

Shelly,

A new axle, with brakes is ~$400. Installation is extra. You will need a welder.

I just replaced the axle on my Scamp 16 . The cost was about $575.00 for the axle with brakes installed at the Scamp factory. I know the cost is a barrier but if you replace the axle you might as well get brakes , the cost is not that much more . I am sure you can find away to get by until your finances improve and not have to write off the summer. I suggest you listen to Tom, he usually gives pretty good advice.. Life is too short to sit at home and be unhappy

[mszabo]

I guess I'm missing something. Have you though about installing the new tires on the old offset rims?
That 1/2" may be enough to get you by until you can replace the axle.
At worst case, down size to 12" tires and wheels. The 5.35 x 12" may work great.

[Jeff Richardson]

Shelley

I had the same problem when I had new Carlisle 175/80-13 ST trailer tires put on my original 1977 Scamp rims. I could not get the wheel on the hub because the tire was jammed against the inside of the fiberglass body. The tire store would not remount the 14 year old passenger car tires back on my rims.

I now had a trailer in the garage stuck up in jack stands. At the very least I needed to move the trailer out of my garage. I let the air out of the new tires. They are very flexible when you to that. They went right on the axle.

I have a 5 hp air compressor in the garage so inflating the tires is not a problem at home. I then carried a 12 volt air compressor with me whenever I went camping just in case I had a flat tire on the road. Getting the flat tire off the trailer would not be a problem but I would have to inflate the spare tire once it was on the axle. I never had a flat tire but I was prepared.

I put a new Flexiride axle underneath my Scamp this spring and it is now about 4 inches higher that it was. The tires go on the axle without any interference from the body.

Here are pictures of my Scamp with the original axle and the new one.

I hope this helps,

Jeff

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

But not sad enough to try the simple suggestion that I made many posts back.

I did start to deflate the tires Thomas, but then it started pouring and it got dark so we came indoors. I certainly can continue with that suggestion, but even if we get them on, there is no guarantee that they won't rub (and if they aren't going to work on my Boler, I'd rather not use them so we can sell them again as new). Clearly the axle needs to be replaced since the torsion arms don't even move. That's an expense I don't think I can afford at the moment, and I'm not willing to take it on the road if the frame/axle isn't checked and safe.

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

Do you have the old tires/rims? It is hard to tell if you changed the rims as well. Can you borrow or buy a smaller used set of mounted tires to use temporarily to get it into the shop? How about piggy backing your boler on a flatbed trailer to the shop? Once in the shop they can weld in metal to raise the trailer.

If you still have the original spare, you only need one replacement to get it to the shop.

What is your bolt pattern? The original 4 on 4 or 5 on 4 1/2?

We do have the rims that were on it - one looks like those we just bought and the other is an original. Both are 5 bolt pattern (what does 4 1/2 stand for?) I've been looking for a set of tires to use temporarily to limp it to the shop, but so far no luck and neither of those that were on it will stay inflated long enough to take it anywhere other than across the driveway, but I'm sure we'll figure something out to get it to the shop. May be a moot point though since we can't afford to put in a new axle. It's really my fault - I should have guessed that the axle would need replacing since it is original.

You've all been a tremendous help with your suggestions. Thank you.

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by floyd

Reradius the wheelwells. Remember fender skirts? One fellow I know made them square with radiused corners.. it looked great, but it is also easy to simply follow the same line as the original... removing an appropriate amount of material.

I had considered this at one time, but doesn't it make the body weaker without the little extra lip there? Or do you glass one in once cut? We decided we like the original arc.

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

I just replaced the axle on my Scamp 16 . The cost was about $575.00 for the axle with brakes installed at the Scamp factory. I know the cost is a barrier but if you replace the axle you might as well get brakes , the cost is not that much more . I am sure you can find away to get by until your finances improve and not have to write off the summer. I suggest you listen to Tom, he usually gives pretty good advice.. Life is too short to sit at home and be unhappy

The cost definitely is a barrier for a number of reason and we would have to save up for that much. We will still go on vacay, just without the Boler. I'll go back to read all of Tom's posts again. Thanks.

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by mszabo

I guess I'm missing something. Have you though about installing the new tires on the old offset rims? That 1/2" may be enough to get you by until you can replace the axle. At worst case, down size to 12" tires and wheels. The 5.35 x 12" may work great.

No, we didn't think of putting the new tires on the old rims, but would that matter? The rims are the same size and only one has the offset.

I think we are going to take the shell off the frame, put the new tires on and drag the frame in to the shop. Hopefully they can tell us if the axle needs replacing, what we need to do that, what it will cost and if the tires/rims we bought will work. If not, we'll have to deal with it then. I will have to go dig up data on what the clearances are and angles and all that.

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by Jeff Richardson

Shelley

I had the same problem when I had new Carlisle 175/80-13 ST trailer tires put on my original 1977 Scamp rims. I could not get the wheel on the hub because the tire was jammed against the inside of the fiberglass body. The tire store would not remount the 14 year old passenger car tires back on my rims.

I now had a trailer in the garage stuck up in jack stands. At the very least I needed to move the trailer out of my garage. I let the air out of the new tires. They are very flexible when you to that. They went right on the axle.

I have a 5 hp air compressor in the garage so inflating the tires is not a problem at home. I then carried a 12 volt air compressor with me whenever I went camping just in case I had a flat tire on the road. Getting the flat tire off the trailer would not be a problem but I would have to inflate the spare tire once it was on the axle. I never had a flat tire but I was prepared.

I put a new Flexiride axle underneath my Scamp this spring and it is now about 4 inches higher that it was. The tires go on the axle without any interference from the body.

Here are pictures of my Scamp with the original axle and the new one.

I hope this helps,

Jeff

Thanks for the info Jeff. Wish I had chatted with you before I went ahead and bought these tires! You sure can see the difference in the before and after. No wonder you had issues. I wonder if you (or anyone else) might be able to tell me the starting angle of the suspension arm? And did you get a trailing arm or leading arm axle?

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

It sounds like the issue is the new tire and wheel won't fit between the outer wheel lip and the hub.

What size tire was on the old rims? If the new ones are close, it seems possible that you can finesse the new tires and wheels into place as a temporary measure, but if the arm doesn't drop when you jack up the trailer, the axle is clearly in need of replacement.

Maybe you can deflate the tire and reinflate it in place. If that works, check for clearance above the tire - you can't have it scraping the wheel well.

Yes - that is exactly the problem we are having. The old tires were tiny little 155/70s (I think) on 13" rims - one original offset and another a 5 on 4 1/2 with no offset. We started to deflate and got rained out. Good idea and will likely do this to move the trailer under cover and remove the shell from the frame.

Our axle arm definitely did not drop at all when we jacked the trailer up.

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by Des Nolan

Hi Shelley,

At what point are you jacking up your trailer? The original instructions with our 1977 Boler says to do it at the bumper "place your car 'bumper jack' on the bumper). This lifts the body and the wheel dangles somewhat.

We recently replaced 13 ST 175/80R13 G/Y 6P Marathons (yours are radial are they not?).

Yes, it does take a bit if wiggling to get the tire into the wheel well, but ours then fits -- granted, with only millimeters of space, tire to fiberglass shell.

Good luck.

Des

We jacked it up on the frame just behind the wheel. Our back bumper is a wreck and needs to be replaced. Not sure we could find a solid enough spot to jack it on! We also have both sides jacked up at the moment so both tires are in the air. I honestly have no idea if our tires are radial. Where do I find that info? They are the same numbers as what you listed but not sure the brand or what G/Y 6P means. I will go check in the morning.

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

Looking at the rest of the pictures, I can see that it is an older unit and I can understand her reluctance to spring for a new axle. But that said, you can't have an unsafe situation.

You are absolutely right and it's not simply reluctance - I just honestly can't afford to spring for a new axle. It's a 1973 Boler. I love it and I am so excited to get it on the road, but if it has to wait, then it has to wait as I don't want to take something unsafe on the highway. It's not worth risking anyone's lives over

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

Shelly,

A new axle, with brakes is ~$400. Installation is extra. You will need a welder.

Thanks David. We are sussing out someone to inspect and repair our frame.

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

Try deflating the tires to install the wheels on the trailer. It might work and you have nothing to lose.

Roger that! I think I will do it tomorrow after work. Sure takes a long time to deflate them though.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by shelley w

Roger that! I think I will do it tomorrow after work. Sure takes a long time to deflate them though.

Just unscrew the valve cores. Many bicycle valve caps have the little tool built in.

[bkboler]

I ended up buying the exact same tires as Jeff did from Specialty Tire in Winnipeg. When I got to the cabin where I store my boler I found the same problem whith the tire not fitting under the shell so I took a sawzall and trimmed up a little at a time until the tire fit underneath (I believe that was Floyds suggestion). Doesnt look the neatest right now but it works beautifully.

[bkboler]

Right beside the number on the tires you should see letters or a letter. R for radial, Mine say ST which is specifically for trailers, It has to do with the way the weight is distributed. Vehicles have 4 tires and most trailers only have 2 so you want a tire that can handle more if a weight load.

[David Tilston]

This may be a bad idea, but typically the arms on the axle are removable and on a spline shaft. If yours are removable, then they could be re-installed at the correct angle.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

typically the arms on the axle are removable and on a spline shaft.

Dave,
I believe that is only Flexiride, very unlikely to be original equipment.

[Roy in TO]

Shelly have you searched Kijiji and craigslist for trailer tires?

I found a pair of brand new 12" on 5 bolt rims for $60 ea. A similar used for $25. Both ads in BC

Used Car tires on rims should get you to the garage / welding shop.