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06-19-2012, 12:02 AM
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#1
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Boler
Posts: 91
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Putting Tires on?
We bought new rims (but without the 1/2" offset) and tires 175/80 13" ... took the old tires off, but no matter what we did we could not get the new tire/rims to fit between the shell and the axle Is there a trick to this? Is the axle arm supposed to drop down when the frame is jacked up? Cause mine is stuck solid.
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Shelley
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06-19-2012, 08:25 AM
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#3
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Boler
Posts: 91
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But I thought this was the recommended replacement tire size? That what everyone said to use. I just want wheels on my Boler so I can use it ... what other tire size can I use then? No one has 165/80. The ones that were on there are 155/80, but we can't get those. By raise the trailer do you mean 'lift it' like I've seen some people talking about, or just removing it to put the tires on the frame? Ok, now I'm feeling distressed. I just spent $200 on these new tires ... I can't just give them back They've already been mounted on the rims.
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Shelley
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06-19-2012, 08:40 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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In all honesty you have not had time to read and digest the problems and solutions I just provided.
Chances are you still have the original axle. That most likely needs changing. If so, you have to determine the right "down angle" to give you the lift you need.
By merely lifting it with the 2x2" tubes like I did initially, you will not have the full spring and torsion damping (shock absorption) of the original.
Sorry there is no quick and easy fix. Maybe someone can use your tires and you can take their rims finding a lower profile tire. They exist but are very hard to find. Having lost a tire on the road with our Trillium, it was easy to replace with a stock size. Would have been up the creek with out a paddle, if we had non stock sizing.
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06-19-2012, 09:05 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Shelly,
I've since seen your pictures posted on Facebook. I can tell by how low your trailer is sitting that you need to replace your axle. Been there, done that. Sorry to have to be the one to bring you the bad news.
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06-19-2012, 09:05 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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It sounds like the issue is the new tire and wheel won't fit between the outer wheel lip and the hub.
What size tire was on the old rims? If the new ones are close, it seems possible that you can finesse the new tires and wheels into place as a temporary measure, but if the arm doesn't drop when you jack up the trailer, the axle is clearly in need of replacement.
Maybe you can deflate the tire and reinflate it in place. If that works, check for clearance above the tire - you can't have it scraping the wheel well.
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06-19-2012, 09:17 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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You got it Tom, as I posted; been there, done that. I too listened to the others and spec sheets on tire replacement size. Faced exactly the same problem as Shelly.
Deflating the tire to install was a good temporary suggestion.
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06-19-2012, 10:13 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 1300 1977 (#2033 L EGGO)
Posts: 268
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Hi Shelley,
At what point are you jacking up your trailer? The original instructions with our 1977 Boler says to do it at the bumper "place your car 'bumper jack' on the bumper). This lifts the body and the wheel dangles somewhat.
We recently replaced 13 ST 175/80R13 G/Y 6P Marathons (yours are radial are they not?).
Yes, it does take a bit if wiggling to get the tire into the wheel well, but ours then fits -- granted, with only millimeters of space, tire to fiberglass shell.
Good luck.
Des
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06-19-2012, 10:19 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Here is a picture from Shelly's facebook page. Her boler is riding pretty low. Ergo the suggestion for a new axle.
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06-19-2012, 10:29 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO
Here is a picture from Shelly's facebook page. Her boler is riding pretty low. Ergo the suggestion for a new axle.
Attachment 48070
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Looking at the rest of the pictures, I can see that it is an older unit and I can understand her reluctance to spring for a new axle. But that said, you can't have an unsafe situation.
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06-19-2012, 10:34 AM
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#11
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Boler
Posts: 91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO
In all honesty you have not had time to read and digest the problems and solutions I just provided.
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Oh trust me, I read, digested and regurgitated it! I really do appreciate your input even if it is bad news. I wish I had known this would be a problem before I purchased the tires/rims. I'm just a little disgruntled and trying to figure out what to do - much of this technical/mechanical stuff is beyond me (I'm a right-brained girl after all) and I don't have a lot of extra money so to purchase what I was told were the right tires only to find out they aren't is a harsh blow. We needed tires to haul the frame in to be looked at/repaired so it's disappointing to know that these tires probably won't work for my Boler. Clearly they are not the right size based on the image on your other thread and I can't understand how that would have become a reasonable replacement suggestion on the charts that the tire shops reference.
Sadly, I can't afford to replace the axle with a new one that has brakes, but can someone recommend a standard axle replacement for my original axle? Hopefully it will work with the new rims/tires.
PS We did start to deflate the tires but got rained out and gave up for the night.
__________________
Shelley
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06-19-2012, 10:40 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Shelly,
A new axle, with brakes is ~$400. Installation is extra. You will need a welder.
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06-19-2012, 10:51 AM
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#13
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Boler
Posts: 91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
A new axle, with brakes is ~$400. Installation is extra. You will need a welder.
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I can't afford that. I will need to install one without brakes. What model of axle should I purchase?
__________________
Shelley
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06-19-2012, 12:09 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Try deflating the tires to install the wheels on the trailer. It might work and you have nothing to lose.
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06-19-2012, 12:49 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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This thread should give you some idea of costs:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...a-45797-2.html
Link to Paul Neumeister in Ontario:
Fibreglass RV Parts, Repairs, and Service by Paul Neumeister
He sell the axles mentioned in the above thread but is also a good source for some other parts you may need.
Escape trailers in BC:
http://escapetrailer.com/Home.aspx
If you don't go with Escape in BC to install - consider the costs of bolt on brackets and brake flanges. Both will make things easier in the future if you want to do other things. Hopefully your welder understands the axles.
Cerka in Ontario has an order form that tells you what measurements you need. Many have suggested a 10 degree down. Go here:
http://www.cerka.ca/downloads.asp
and down load the Dexter, Al-Ko and Flexiride order forms to get an idea.
Be forwarned that they all have different suggested start angles and different arm lengths on the torsion axles.
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06-19-2012, 01:10 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shelley w
Oh trust me, I read, digested and regurgitated it!
... to purchase what I was told were the right tires only to find out they aren't is a harsh blow.
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Regurgitated that does not sound very pleasant.
The tires might be right if your axle was OK. Who ever is doing the welding on your trailer should be able to calculate what you need.
You need at least 3" clearance from the top of the wheel well. Add to that 1/2 the diameter of the tire and that should tell you where the loaded position of the spindle should be. From that you use the charts to determine the angle of the torsion axle. You have a bit of play by picking the type of mounting brackets. They typically give you 0", 1" and 3" lift. If you need more, you may have to weld in a spacer.
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06-19-2012, 01:27 PM
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#17
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Boler
Posts: 91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO
Regurgitated that does not sound very pleasant.
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I just meant that I went on and on about it to my husband.
I'm about a 10 hr drive (each way) from Vancouver so taking it to Escape is not an option, nor can I afford a $600+ bill to purchase and install. Clearly, I won't be taking my Boler on holidays this year I'm a little sad about that since it was to be our first family vacation in 12 yrs.
__________________
Shelley
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06-19-2012, 01:33 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shelley w
........ I'm a little sad about that since it was to be our first family vacation in 12 yrs.
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But not sad enough to try the simple suggestion that I made many posts back.
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06-19-2012, 01:42 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shelley w
We needed tires to haul the frame in to be looked at/repaired so it's disappointing to know that these tires probably won't work for my Boler.
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Do you have the old tires/rims? It is hard to tell if you changed the rims as well. Can you borrow or buy a smaller used set of mounted tires to use temporarily to get it into the shop? How about piggy backing your boler on a flatbed trailer to the shop? Once in the shop they can weld in metal to raise the trailer.
If you still have the original spare, you only need one replacement to get it to the shop.
What is your bolt pattern? The original 4 on 4 or 5 on 4 1/2?
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06-19-2012, 02:36 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Reradius the wheelwells. Remember fender skirts? One fellow I know made them square with radiused corners.. it looked great, but it is also easy to simply follow the same line as the original... removing an appropriate amount of material.
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