Question on materials - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-27-2014, 10:11 PM   #1
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Question on materials

I've got a couple of questions:

1) We got our frame back from the welding shop for our 13' Scamp. One of the previous owners replaced the floor in the upper floors (the dance floor in back and the two wings in the front). Around the perimeter, under the floor, between the frame and the wood, there was this hard, white substance, which we assume the PO used to help seal the floor to the frame. It's hard -- really hard. What is this stuff? It reminds me of construction adhesive, but it's white...and most adhesives I've seen are brown.

2) Now that the frame is cleaned off (these pics were taken before it came back from the shop), and ready to be painted with POR-15, I assume I should put something down to seal the floor to the frame before I screw it all back down. What do I put on the frame between the wood and the frame? This white stuff again? Butyl tape? Construction adhesive? I don't intend on doing this again in my lifetime, so I'm hoping to get the right material....

Thanks for your advice!

Tony
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white1.jpg   white2.jpg  

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Old 11-27-2014, 10:54 PM   #2
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Hi Tony, I don't have any idea what the white stuff was but I don't see any reason to glue the floor to the frame. That's what the bolts are for. I've read a lot of threads on frame off renos but have never heard of anyone coming across an adhesive on the frame. Someone else will chime in soon.
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Old 11-27-2014, 10:59 PM   #3
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Thanks Dave. I assume it was some sort of sealant... there were no bolts holding the floor to the frame...only a series of self tapping screws about 8" apart around the perimeter and down the rails on the dance floor.
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Old 11-27-2014, 11:12 PM   #4
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You didn't say what year the Scamp is but that may be the normal way of attaching the body to the frame. I have no clue to that but I would be much more comfortable with 6 or 8 through bolts just cuz. It will be interesting to see what others have to say.
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Old 11-27-2014, 11:18 PM   #5
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It's a long story, but we think it is a 1980s vintage model. However when we get done it would be more accurately a 2014-15!
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Old 11-27-2014, 11:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
You didn't say what year the Scamp is but that may be the normal way of attaching the body to the frame. I have no clue to that but I would be much more comfortable with 6 or 8 through bolts just cuz. It will be interesting to see what others have to say.
Any bolts would be superfluous, the screws fasten the floor securely... Maybe too securely!
Floor or frame work (when needed) is truly a daunting prospect for the average Scamp restorer, partly due to how permanently attached they are!

The Trillium for instance is bolted to the frame and much more likely to actually come loose, but much easier to remove on purpose for frame repair. It is attached pretty much in the same way as Pre-war cars, on which the bolts can rust in half at the attachment point leaving both ends looking normal. I had a Trillium once on which the body was held in place by only a couple of badly rusted bolts. That was serendipity to discover but a cinch to rectify.
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Old 11-28-2014, 12:15 AM   #7
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Hard white stuff could be an epoxy adhesive, which would only hold onto the paint applied to the frame. Doubt it's original - could call Scamp and ask them.

Charlie Y
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Old 11-28-2014, 01:46 AM   #8
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Thanks Floyd and Charlie for the input, I knew the folks in the know would come through for the OP .
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Old 11-28-2014, 07:47 AM   #9
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Scamp places the white sealant on the top of the frame surounding the drop floor. It keeps water from the road splashing up and entering over the frame onto the lower floor it also seals out drafts. I use a white PL adhesive sealant from the big box stores. I apply it to the top of the frame rail just prior to screwing the floor down. It is not applied to the rear frame rails.
I attach the floor to the frame with hardened self tapping wood to metal screws with an impact driver. Even though self tapping, i find thing work much better if you drill small pilot holes through the wood and frame first. The screws come with counter sunk heads. I think I use 1 7/16" and they can be bought from the big box stores.
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Old 11-28-2014, 11:31 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
The Trillium for instance is bolted to the frame and much more likely to actually come loose, but much easier to remove on purpose for frame repair. It is attached pretty much in the same way as Pre-war cars, on which the bolts can rust in half at the attachment point leaving both ends looking normal. I had a Trillium once on which the body was held in place by only a couple of badly rusted bolts. That was serendipity to discover but a cinch to rectify.
Gotta agree. Mounting bolts on a Trillium should be considered maintenance items.
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Old 11-28-2014, 04:40 PM   #11
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Adding adhesive would add stiffness to the whole trailer. Easy to justify the $2.00 investment.

John
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Old 11-29-2014, 11:29 AM   #12
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The two part epoxy I use to do some repairs would fit the description this maybe a bad idea on the frame though as trailers need to flex; though a flexible sealant maybe a good idea.
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