Questions about my "New" 1980 Scamp 13 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 04-29-2012, 01:04 AM   #1
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Name: Jimbo
Trailer: 1971 Trails West Campster/1980 Scamp 13
Posts: 294
Question Questions about my "New" 1980 Scamp 13

So I am finally a member of the "Scamp" family, having just bought a very nice very clean 1980 scamp 13 footer. It is perfect for me, with the exception of the scamps despirate need for storage space, but I will work on that.

What is perfect for me is the elephant skin interior, in very very good shape and the vinyl covered seats. Some cleaning and detailing and minor fixes here and there are in order, but It is awesome.

Here is a liting of some of the things I would like some guidance on.

1) The lettering on one side is almost entirely gone. You can see a raised white outline, but no coloring. Is it possible that the layer with the color came off and the lower layers are still there. I dont think that it has been painted over. Here is a photo, and if you look closely, you can see the outline of the slightly raised lettering.

2) Both the front and back windows have horrible looking white silicone at the bottom, and they still leak a little in the inside. Is it necessary to replace the entire strip, or can I cut a 8-10 inch piece and just splice it into the bottom (or is this just asking for trouble? See the picture I posted at the bottom for # 11, you can see what I am talking about.

3) I really like the elephant skin, and plan to do some cleaning, I assume it originally had tape over the seams, but I think i prefer it without the tape. There are some areas where they need a little touchup in between the panels, will white silicone caulking work. Maybe the paintable kind. And am I in any danger of the panels pealing if I dont have the seam tape?

4) What type of trim goes around the skylight, mine is missing?

5) The bolts which hold the cabinets etc are rusty on the inside, and I replace them. On the inside are they supposed to be exposed, do they get caps, or something else. Dont think i have seen a good detailed shot of what they are "supposed" to look like.

6) Is the wiring to the kitchen lamp really supposed to look like this?

7) This is the bottom of my entry door. I dont know if I can inject some sort of adhesive and draw a vacuum on this. Has anyone here dealt with this issue before?

8) What is my refridgerator door latch supposed to look like?

10) This is the inside of my stove, there is supposed to be a springloaded clip here to help secure the lid, what does lt look like and does anyone know where I can find a couple replacements? It is a Vitreous model # 43-26

11) This is the bottom of my front window, I left a comment about the silicon above , but what is this white tape covering, what is supposed to go there, was something removed. it it part of the rock guard. . no clue here <_<

THANK YOU EVERYONE! This is a wonderful forum.

Here is alink to my other photos (so far, cuz I know everyone loves photos)

1980 Scamp Pre Cleanup - a set on Flickr


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Old 04-29-2012, 10:25 PM   #2
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Name: Frederick
Trailer: Fiber Stream
Posts: 8,125
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Talking A test! I'll give this a shot...

1. My Fiber Stream's logos were similar when I bought it. Mine had hints of color at the edges, leading me to believe that the "sticker" was all there... Strong sunlight over time can totally bleach out any color. You're not missing a layer; the pigment has just totally faded out.

2. IMHO, patching is just asking for trouble. Instead of one butt seam, you'll have two with twice the leakage.

3. I have seen several Scamp/Boler owners forgo the seam tape without regret.

4. It needs a plastic piece called a "Garnish" or trim. Call Scamp for a replacement.

5. I think they use "Acorn Nuts" on the inside...

6. no

7. Most fixes I have seen required taking the door apart.

8. The tab for the bottom plastic has snapped off. The top plastic rotates to the front with the bottom plastic's tab behind it. That's what keeps the door shut in transit.

9. There is no question #9

10. I'll have to pass on this one...

11. I'm guessing that a propane tank regulator might have been screwed into the fiberglass in the past and the tape covers the screw holes.

I'm sure I did not answer all of the questions correctly. Someone will be along (soon I hope) to give you the RIGHT answers.

Frederick - The Scaleman
1978 Fiber Stream 16 named "Eggstasy" & 1971 Compact Jr. named "Boomerang"
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:42 PM   #3
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Trailer: 1971 Trails West Campster/1980 Scamp 13
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Awesome information. Thank you!!
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Old 06-05-2015, 10:37 AM   #4
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Me Too!!!

I too have just bought a 1980 Scamp. While I have fixed 3 leaks (2 windows and one vent) I am having trouble with the Dometic 211 fridge. The freezer is ice cold, but the fridge is still warm. How long should it take to cool down? I fear the freezer works, but not the fridge. Is that even possible? Any help??? Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2015, 03:49 PM   #5
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Name: Jimbo
Trailer: 1971 Trails West Campster/1980 Scamp 13
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Originally Posted by JHayter View Post
I too have just bought a 1980 Scamp. While I have fixed 3 leaks (2 windows and one vent) I am having trouble with the Dometic 211 fridge. The freezer is ice cold, but the fridge is still warm. How long should it take to cool down? I fear the freezer works, but not the fridge. Is that even possible? Any help??? Thanks!
Just saw tihs, did you find an answer, if the freezer is getting cold the fridge should be. Mine gets cold on 110 but not on propane nor 12V, i just took it out to try to clean it and turn it over and hopefully recharge it a little bit. let me know if you learn something.
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Old 07-15-2015, 07:18 AM   #6
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Name: Gary
Trailer: 1976 13' Scamp
Posts: 98
#11 looks like it may have been a porch light. I installed one there on my Scamp.
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Old 07-15-2015, 07:59 AM   #7
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Name: John
Trailer: Boler
Deep South
Posts: 671
Here are some answers to your questions that I have dealt with my self:

#2 - On your side windows if you want to stop the leaks you need to put new butyl tape all the way around all 4 sides, pretty easy to do just have to drill out the rivets. Only use a drill bit just big enough to drill the head of the rivet out from the outside, don't go all the way through. Then use a punch and lightly tap out the rivet from outside as well. Clean both the window shell & the window itself really good before you put the new Butyl tape down to ensure a good seal (no debris, dirt, old butyl or silicone left). You can get replacement aluminum rivets and the tool at any hardware store. While you have it out you might check all your window seals and replace any that are worn, Scamp, Vintage Trailer Supply, and All-Right Custom Manufacturing all are good sources for the seals.

#4 - a plastic garnish comes with most vents but most garnishes are too thick to fit on Bolers or Scamps without making some sort of trim/spacer. I made a custom riser of 3 layers of plywood screwed & epoxied together then epoxied to the top of the trailer vent opening, my vent now sits on top of that which makes the handle to my vent sit up in the riser we don't hit our head on it, and allows a 1.5 to 2" garnish to fit, 3 to 4" garnish is still to deep.

#7 - looks like you may have water in your door, usually leaks in around the windows or door hardware, some drill holes at the bottom to let it escape, mine was rotted on the inside so I had to do a total door repair with steel frame to replace the wood inside that had rotten away...see my posts for the door repair under Our 1971 13' Boler mods

Hope this helps
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Old 07-15-2015, 05:07 PM   #8
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Trailer: Scamp 16 Deluxe
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Maybe you already discovered this, but decal sets are available from Scamp.

2015 16' Deluxe Scamp, Layout "B"
2007 Highlander
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Old 07-15-2015, 05:16 PM   #9
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
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There is a phenomena that takes place on gelcoat after having a decal in place for many years. Basically what you are seeing is the ghost of the old decals, there's nothing there that you can remove. On my 42 y.o. I removed the faded decals, sanded the surface and repainted with 4 coats of marine grade paint and then covered the area of the decals with new (but different) decals. Within 3 months the original decal image started appearing through the paint and new decals.
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:53 AM   #10
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
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We use a medium size O ring to keep our Scamp Fridge closed, an eye hook with O-ring and a screw in the top of the door. Works great and our fridge has the original lock which works not so great.

We have added tons of storage to our Scamp 16 and our son's Scamp 13. If you look at our thread Under Modifications you'ii see all the additional storage possible.

Preparing a 1991 Scamp 16

In the Scamp 13 he used the Dinette as a permanent bed. We built two, long pullout drawers under the bed and populated them with plastic containers and covers. Over the dinette we built a full width overhead cabinet. We shelved the closet and attached a fold up shelf to the front of the closet door. We changed the under sink area adding drawers and shelving. We added a bumper box to the rear of the trailer. His model a 1977 had front bunks. We converted the bunk to a front dinette for two with overhead storage shelf and under seat storage. On his roof we put an 80 watt solar panel.
Norm and Ginny

2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:41 AM   #11
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Name: Robert
Trailer: Surf-Side
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The top part of your fridge latch is also missing a piece , there should be a lip at the outside front which allows you to leave the door latched at a slightly open position when in storage . As to the freezer working and the fridge not , if the freezer is working well you are good to go - an empty fridge of this type will never seem to get cold enough but once filled with pre-cooled product it will be fine . Start the fridge the night before you go and freeze as much product as you can and cool the rest , once the unit gets cool it will be fine for the rest of your journey. If in doubt put a container of water with a thermometer in it and leave it overnight it should be about 38 F by morning.

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