Questions about wood problems - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-14-2003, 05:33 AM   #15
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Leaks

While you're searching for those leaks, don't forget to check ALL of the running lights and Tail lights.
My Burro had a waterfall from two lights. Lucky for me the floor is fiberglass coated too. You might consider glass coating that new floor.

The leaks were where the wires go thru the bulkhead and the screw holes. A little putty tape there and no more leaks!
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Old 04-14-2003, 09:06 AM   #16
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Leaks

Thanks Pete:

I had not thought of that at all. Thanks for the tip. I suppose that I should check any and all spots that go through the shell. I found a hole (from the factory) with a rubber grommet in the floor under one of the cupboards. There is two actually and one of them has the copper propane pipe coming up through it for the stove. The other one is just empty. I don't suppose water would come in this though as it is in the bottom. I was thinking it may have been there in case someone wanted to put a heater in that compartment which I may want to do if I can find one that fits.

As I am taking up the floor I am finding some large bolts that go through the floor into the frame. They are very rusty and will be difficult to take out but I suppose I must cut them out and replace them with new ones. I am assuming they are the mounting bolts which keep the body of the trailer on the frame.

Wayne
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Old 04-14-2003, 09:56 AM   #17
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Removing rusting bolts

>>As I am taking up the floor I am finding some large bolts that go through the floor into the frame. They are very rusty and will be difficult to take out but I suppose I must cut them out and replace them with new ones. I am assuming they are the mounting bolts which keep the body of the trailer on the frame.

If (and that's a big if) you decide to take them out and replace them, try a penetrating oil before you cut them. That will help them break loose so that you can remove them. But if they are still solid (and the rust bothers you), I don't know why you couldn't treat them with a rust inhibitor and leave them in place.

If you are going to take it off the frame, then okay. Otherwise, I'd just leave it alone...but that's just my opinion. The more I work in and around my trailer, the more I agree with the ''if it ain't broke don't fix it'' motto. Well, at least I'm trying to learn to agree with it! ;)
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Old 04-14-2003, 12:58 PM   #18
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rusty bolts

Hi Suz:

This site is sooooo cool. I love it! Anyhow the bolts are now loose because I broke up the plywood around them. They were attached through the plywood and the fiberglass into the frame. I have to replace them. It is hard to tell because the wood was so bad but I assume they have to be countersunk into the wood. So far I believe I can get at the bottom of them and the top so if I cut them off I can put new ones in without too much trouble. Now you have me thinking about taking the whole body off the frame though.. Now that I have it this far I might do that. The frame looks solid but lots of rust. I could either just paint it with some rust paint or take it apart and sandblast it.. seems like a pretty big job but I've seen that a number of people here have done it.
Maybe a winter project for next year...?
Thanks for the input.

Wayne
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Old 04-14-2003, 06:29 PM   #19
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Rot Doctor

That floor sure looks bad but you may want to check out the products from Rot Doctor before you rip out any more wood.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/
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Old 04-21-2003, 03:14 PM   #20
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Update

Hi Everyone:

Just thought I'd post an update with a couple of pictures. We were having a difficult time getting the plywood off the fiberglass floor but yesterday came up with the idea to use an airchisel instead of a hammer and chisel. We got more done in an hour or so than we did all day yesterday. The floor is now down to the fiberglass so we can start fixing leaks and reinstalling the floor.

First pic is of me using the air chisel..

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3ea44f400490dIMG_0069 (Small).JPG/>

Next pic is of the floor minus the plywood...

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3ea44f7008431IMG_0071 (Small).JPG/>

We had to take out all the cabinets and also the door to get the old plywood out. We covered the door opening with plastic and sticky tape.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3ea44fc7a6bd2IMG_0070 (Small).JPG/>

Last night it rained (a lot ) and we were able to determine where the leaks are. Nancy was right on.. the belly band has been fiberglassed and is not leaking. The front window is leaking big time and the ceiling vent is also leaking. Both have to come out and be reinstalled properly. Thanks for the tips folks.

We are wanting to paint the cabinets.. inside and out and would like some input as to what kind of paint to use for this. They are all simulated wood grain. It might be a coating of some kind and I hope it dosn't bubble or peal off when I put the paint on. Was thinking of Melamine if that is possible over the original finish.
So folks what do you think?

Wayne
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Old 04-21-2003, 05:47 PM   #21
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Hi Wayne
Wow, you have been busy. I'm glad you found your elusive leaks.

Our Trillium doors were a heavy mactac type stuff, we just peeled it off, lightly sanded then painted with latex indoor paint. Just did it last year but so far it is holding up well.

In our house kitchen when we wanted to paint our varathaned pine cupboards it was recommended to use an oil based primer, Zinser I think was the name, then paint with either latex or oil. We used the best quality white latex available. Because the cupboards are white they get scrubbed alot and have held up really well. The kids were 2 and 4 at the time of painting, so the cupboards have taken abuse. I would highly recommend this method for a high use area.

Can't wait to see your finished result. Keep those pictures coming.
Nancy
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Old 04-21-2003, 06:39 PM   #22
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Leaks

The front and back windows in our 1979 Trillium 4500 were leaking, so we took them out and replaced the wood with teak windowframes and the gaskets with closed cell foam.

Can you guess what we found after we installed the new cushions and washed the snow dirt from our Reno trip off of the trailer? More leaks. Apparently we lost a rivet on the rear tail light and water came through the hole. In addition, we definitely have a belly band leak. We lost a lot of rivets and the band was falling off, so we removed it. A lot of the caulk had fallen out and we could see wet, rotting wood in some areas.

We're letting it dry out and we're going to recaulk.

We also pulled the modified portapotty and found bad wood underneath it. Apparently the vent pipe has been leaking for some time and there was an unfilled hole in the roof.

We also have the nice little screw ends coming through where the awning is attached,but we don't have the awning! Some day we'll fix that.

Tao and I used Minwax's wood hardener on some of the rotting wood in other places and have filled holes according to Minwax' directions with their epoxy wood filler. It's not fun to work with but it seems to do a good job.

Gee, and the reason we bought the fiberglass trailer was because we thought it wouldn't leak...

Bonnie
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Old 04-21-2003, 09:09 PM   #23
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Quote:
Gee, and the reason we bought the fiberglass trailer was because we thought it wouldn't leak...

Bonnie
AAaahh, but Bonnie, at least you can get these fixed. and with a lot lets upkeep it will stay fixed.
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