First of all, congratulations on your new Scamp
I see you've already caught the drift on silicone
If you have any to remove you'll know why the topic heats things up
My opinion is that caulk around things like hatches, windows
, and the like is just a band-aid and not really a solution. Dollars to doughnuts someone caulked it after it started leaking, and they either didn't know or didn't want to take the time to re-seal it properly (or, in their defense, I have seen actual owner's manuals advise to put silicone caulk around a leaking fitting
To my mind, the proper way to seal this type of thing (typically something with a flange) is to remove the offending item, clean all the old caulk/sealer/etc. from around the area, wipe it down with something like acetone or denatured alcohol, and then re-seal by putting the new sealer under the flange, not as a bead around the outside edges
Then you re-fasted the window or hatch, tighten gradually (alternating fasteners as if you were doing a car wheel or head). Nothing need be added to the outside. Note: If you use butyl tape, it may continue to ooze out a bit for some days; you can just cut the excess off - a plastic knife or the like works well. If and when the hatch or window leaks
again (should be years down the line), you rinse, lather, and repeat.
If you do get consistent new leaks
soon after re-sealing something this way, there is probably an underlying problem (sagging or flexing roof, etc.). But that's pretty rare.
There are a number of sealers that can work well. My first choice would be butyl tape (a grey, flat "tape" - make sure to get butyl and not just "plain" putty tape). A polyurethane sealant like Sikaflex 291 or 3M 4200 will work also, as will some other caulks. I would stay away from silicone, or latex "household" caulks.
Scamps also have rivets*, and the type of rivets used have a hole through the middle (like a tube). So they need to be sealed. Scamp
, as far as I know, uses a plastic cap over the top, which you fill with caulk before snapping shut. If those have deteriorated due to UV or etc., then they should be replaced. Part of the cap goes under the rivet, so to do it right, the rivet should be drilled out and replaced. In a pinch, you could just dab some caulk on the top. Here I would use a polyurethane, unless the plastic caps are incompatible (I'm not sure what type of plastic Scamp uses, but you could find out.) There are other caulks that can be used if necessary.
*With a deluxe, you should have fewer rivets - or maybe none?
I hope we'll get to see some pics of your new baby!
Deluxe: Oooh, shiny wood!
PS: I notice I didn't address your question of how to remove previous caulking. Scraping (plastic tools work well for not scratching the gelcoat), mineral spirits, acetone, and denatured alcohol are all things I would test, to see which works best. Even a metal razor blade if you need to and are very careful (rounding or clipping the corners can help to avoid digging in and gouging). If you do have silicone, be sure not to sand it to try to remove it, as this will just drive the silicone oil contamination further into the gelcoat.