Re-installing side windows in a Scamp? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-28-2015, 05:37 PM   #15
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I too have to reinstall my windows in my scamp, but I've had to drill out the old rivets so my only option is to screw the windows in, unless I fiberglass all the holes again THAN rivet it all over again. Besides, I thought it was highway robbery for the money they want both for the rivets and the shipping.
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Old 04-28-2015, 05:55 PM   #16
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Heck if your door seals you are leading a blessed life. I have to replace that this spring. The flat foam seal tends to roll up with use. Going to try the "D" rubber seal this year. Except on the bottom where it has the wider gap, Foam there.

Nice to know that there is a good 6-8 years of ideas to try for any problem. Should keep me off the streets corners and out of trouble.
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:10 PM   #17
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Heck if your door seals you are leading a blessed life. I have to replace that this spring. The flat foam seal tends to roll up with use. Going to try the "D" rubber seal this year. Except on the bottom where it has the wider gap, Foam there.

Nice to know that there is a good 6-8 years of ideas to try for any problem. Should keep me off the streets corners and out of trouble.
Foam seal? FOAM SEAL?

I don't have no foam seal on my door! Only item that could pass for a seal is a white trim-like gasket that fits on the rim of the fiberglass door opening.

Edit: white trim for entry door...$1.50 per foot!

And to think I bought my old Scamp so I'd have a stress-free project to work on this summer!

Any photos of the foam seal?

Bill
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:26 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by neauone View Post
I too have to reinstall my windows in my scamp, but I've had to drill out the old rivets so my only option is to screw the windows in, unless I fiberglass all the holes again THAN rivet it all over again. Besides, I thought it was highway robbery for the money they want both for the rivets and the shipping.
I'm not sure I understand...did you drill completly thru the window framing, and the fiberglass shell?

All I have ever had to do was use a large enough bit to remove the rivet's head, then using a 1/8" punch, punch the rest of the rivet into the inside of the trailer.

I still believe that there is nothing wrong with using screws/bolts to install the windows!

Bill
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:00 PM   #19
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Foam seal? FOAM SEAL?

I don't have no foam seal on my door! Only item that could pass for a seal is a white trim-like gasket that fits on the rim of the fiberglass door opening.

Edit: white trim for entry door...$1.50 per foot!

And to think I bought my old Scamp so I'd have a stress-free project to work on this summer!

Any photos of the foam seal?

Bill
Actually what you want is the nice D rubber seal scamp now sells and is finally showing it on their web parts store. Works way better than the old foam seal they use to put on the trailers. But I would still use a large foam piece for the bottom of the door though.
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:20 PM   #20
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Actually what you want is the nice D rubber seal scamp now sells and is finally showing it on their web parts store. Works way better than the old foam seal they use to put on the trailers. But I would still use a large foam piece for the bottom of the door though.
Hi Carol H., Thanks for the link.

That is interesting, and would no doubt help keep the trailer cosy.

If I ever get my Scamp leak free, I'll consider buying a roll. If I installed the new rubber seal now...most likely it would be washed away from all the water poring thru the trailer!

Bill
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Old 04-30-2015, 05:42 AM   #21
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Okay, I'm totally confused now.... We've removed one of our side windows due to it leaking and hope to start the process of getting it put back in this weekend.

Rivets??? WHERE???

There were screws on the inside of the window frame and nothing visible on the outside--no rivets, screws or anything.

The trailer is a 16 ft. model from 1995 (never had anything in it, apparently it was sold as a shell) and when we got the window out, a sticker on it showed the window was manufactured in 1993. (Slide type window with screen.)
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Old 04-30-2015, 06:09 AM   #22
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Sharon if you have screws in your windows, use the screws to reinstall them, not rivets.
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Old 04-30-2015, 08:07 AM   #23
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Sharon
You seem to have the black frame radius windows. Most are mounted with an inside trim ring and screws. On the early 84> Scamps they may have installed several rivets to help hold the windows in. In later Scamps no rivets were used in those frames.
Bill
Scamp used 9/64 pop rivets to hold the jalose windows to the shell. They did sell them several years ago. I did like you and ordered a bulk order of 5/32 rivets. With the window it tightens thing up and protects the shell if you use back up washers with your rivets. They sell specific sized aluminum back up washers but you can subistute stainless flat washers for back ups. When attaching to fiberglass alone if possible I try to use back up washers if possible.
Eddie
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Old 04-30-2015, 09:17 AM   #24
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Sharon
You seem to have the black frame radius windows. Most are mounted with an inside trim ring and screws. On the early 84> Scamps they may have installed several rivets to help hold the windows in. In later Scamps no rivets were used in those frames.
Bill
Scamp used 9/64 pop rivets to hold the jalose windows to the shell. They did sell them several years ago. I did like you and ordered a bulk order of 5/32 rivets. With the window it tightens thing up and protects the shell if you use back up washers with your rivets. They sell specific sized aluminum back up washers but you can subistute stainless flat washers for back ups. When attaching to fiberglass alone if possible I try to use back up washers if possible.
Eddie
Thanks Eddie! I saw some flat aluminum washers in ACE's Rivet Section yesterday when I was buying 1/8" rivets. (for the curtain rod holders).

Yesterday,I also measured the thickness of my Scamp's shell in two places. It appeared to be 1/4" thick. I say "appeared" because my method of measurement wasn't all that great. I stuck a rivet into the hole and marked the exposed end with fine tipped felt pen.

I also got an air-powered rivet gun from a friend. It will be interesting to see how much damage I will do while learing how to use it! For one thing the gun doesn't set the rivet when a lever is pulled. It set the rivet when the lever is released!

I once unknowingly bought a shotgun with a release-trigger! I got quite a scare the first time I pulled the trigger...and it didn't fire...until I released the trigger!

Oh well...back to windows....

Bill
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:12 AM   #25
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Well Bill maybe someone was "discovering" a release trigger shotgun near your scamp. Would explain the leaks.

The door seals (original) are a foam with adhesive back. Much like the stuff sold for around window air conditioners in big box lumber stores. 1/2 x 1/2 for sides and top, 3/4 deep for the bottom edge. The D seal is a rubber bulb type and tends to seal the sides & top better and last longer.

I almost hate to ask, you do have the snap caps for the rivets right? My 77 did not come with them but they are almost essential for getting a seal.
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:26 AM   #26
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As Eddie points out Scamp used different windows attached in different ways over the years.

The jalousie style windows for awhile, those are the ones you sometimes see on older sun porches that have slats that crank up. The used windows that hinged at the top and opened at the bottom with a prop to hold them open. These two types just have an aluminum frame with a lip that gets riveted to the shell from the outside. Later models they used slider windows that are more like modern campers with a trim ring and rubber seal, and screws

One of the side effects of being in business for so many decades and having original production still in use is all the prior equipment is still out there and in use and being repaired. You don't want to know about my furnace, let us just say if furnace was a US citizen it is old enough to be elected president.

Poor Bills trailer is so old that rodents and spiders check it out and debate moving into something that old.

But man it is a blast to get it all fixed up and looking spiffy, have yet to camp without folks coming by to check it out. Want to hug the folks that ask is it new. Well maybe not the ones with beards. Oh what the heck them too.
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:43 AM   #27
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Carol H. turned me on to tapping the shaft out and trimming the sleeve down with a fine toothed hacksaw if the rivet needs a shorter grip range. Just slip the shaft back in after the tube is trimmed.
An easier way to trim aluminium rivets is to tap out the pin. turn the pin around and slip it partially in just so the rod comes out the other side. Now use a wire stripper with stripper holes and choose the stripper hole closest to the rod size. Use the stripper to cut the rivet shaft without cutting the rivet pin. You will get a nice clean cut with little distortion and you don't cut the pin. Now pull the shaft and turn it around and put it back inside the rivet the right way and rivet away with the right length rivet.

below wire stripper I use which makes this job easy and quick.

Klein Tools Kurve Wire Stripper/Cutter-11055 - The Home Depot
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Old 04-30-2015, 07:22 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by artrageous View Post
Okay, I'm totally confused now.... We've removed one of our side windows due to it leaking and hope to start the process of getting it put back in this weekend.

Rivets??? WHERE???

There were screws on the inside of the window frame and nothing visible on the outside--no rivets, screws or anything.

The trailer is a 16 ft. model from 1995 (never had anything in it, apparently it was sold as a shell) and when we got the window out, a sticker on it showed the window was manufactured in 1993. (Slide type window with screen.)
No Rivets on the windows of models of the 90's. Simple clean up the outside area of the window frame and trailer put some new butyl tape on the underside of the outside part of the window frame, stick it back onto the trailer and screw it all back into place from the inside just as you did to remove it. Then trim away any of the excess butyl tape that seeped out from under the frame. All done. Simple.
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