Re-installing side windows in a Scamp? - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-07-2015, 06:42 PM   #57
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Trailer: Had Scamp 13', want another small trailer.
Oklahoma
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Originally Posted by artrageous View Post
Oklahoma has, indeed, had some violent weather... Just don't think I could live out there; glad to hear you have a shelter!

But I'd actually take just a wee bit of your rain to see if we've finally managed to stop all the leaks in our trailer! We put the passenger side rear window back in last weekend (it uses screws, not rivets) and tried to seal up every area elsewhere that could POSSIBLY leak. Need to test that with some rain before starting to install the marine headliner fabric and moving on to other projects for our re-do....
I do understand your need for a good hard rain! After a water-hose test I believed my Scamp had only a couple of leaks. No problem, right?

Wrong! After a couple of previous rain storms, I discovered at least a dozen leaks...some that I'm still trying to trace to the source. Nothing that in time that I won't find and seal, but until ALL THE LEAKS ARE STOPPED I can't do the more interesting projects that I have in mind.

Th one leak that really bugs me is the leaking roof vent. It's the old type roof vent with the pull chain. It's going to be hard for me to reach to reseal. I have several 14" roof vents that I bought at a RV Co. parts sale, and should install one, I guess.

It's raining hard...I believe I saw some cats and dogs falling.....

Bill
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:01 PM   #58
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Trailer: 1995 16 ft Scamp
Virginia
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Originally Posted by Bill Nolen View Post
Nothing that in time that I won't find and seal, but until ALL THE LEAKS ARE STOPPED I can't do the more interesting projects that I have in mind.
Bill
Right there with you....

We started with a shell, so we've got a lot to do--STILL--to make it ready for even the most basic camping.
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:16 AM   #59
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I use the cheeep pneumatic pop rivet tool from HF and it works well. Warning.....it uses hydraulic oil in it, it is an air over oil system with the large air cylinder pressurizing the smaller hydraulic piston which does the retracting of the jaws. Maybe a little confusing explanation but basically accurate. I over filled my unit and it pumped oil for a time. I now wrap a shop towel around it to keep the oil from getting on the fiberglass. At present that is just a safe guard. Th air pop rivet gun I used when I worked at the Apache trailer plant had a four inch air cylinder so it had enough force when using 110 shop air.
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:50 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by frankcfx View Post
I use the cheeep pneumatic pop rivet tool from HF and it works well. Warning.....it uses hydraulic oil in it, it is an air over oil system with the large air cylinder pressurizing the smaller hydraulic piston which does the retracting of the jaws. Maybe a little confusing explanation but basically accurate. I over filled my unit and it pumped oil for a time. I now wrap a shop towel around it to keep the oil from getting on the fiberglass. At present that is just a safe guard. Th air pop rivet gun I used when I worked at the Apache trailer plant had a four inch air cylinder so it had enough force when using 110 shop air.
Frank, how much oil is the "right" amount of oil to add before using the pneumatic tool?

A few drops, or more? I received no instructions or manual when I borrowed my friend's pneumatic rivet tool.

Bill
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Old 05-12-2015, 01:15 AM   #61
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If it is the HF tool I would guess about an inch in the oil cup. If it doesn't work put a little more in etc. I like the tool, it is just not well documented.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:09 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by piperjim View Post
Thanks guys for the useful information!! This helps a lot.

Let me ask if you'll check an example, just to see if I'm understanding this 100%. For instance, let's say that I want to remove/replace a window in my Scamp so I can replace the leaking silicone caulk with butyl tape, OK?

Jim, the info that you have been given regarding replacing rivets is good but most Scamps built since the mid 80's don't use rivets for the window frames so before you run out and buy a whole bunch of rivets to redo your windows, you may want to take a look at the inside of your window frames.... suspect you will find they are screwed on.
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:29 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Jim, the info that you have been given regarding replacing rivets is good but most Scamps built since the mid 80's don't use rivets for the window frames so before you run out and buy a whole bunch of rivets to redo your windows, you may want to take a look at the inside of your window frames.... suspect you will find they are screwed on.
Ah! Carol H., if only I could have been so lucky, and my old Scamp had side windows that had been attached with screws by the Scamp Co!

Because of the seeming never ending rain storms passing thru OKC, I have one side window newly re-installed with screws, and one side window still installed with the old rivets!

I do like using the HF rivet tool, so, who knows, I may end up with one window with held in place with screws and one with rivets!

Bill...only half kidding...
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Old 07-27-2015, 04:13 PM   #64
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Name: RogerDat
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I know this is an old thread but figure since it came up in searches I would add in some information. Scamp 56 size rivets are 9/64 thickness (W) and 9/16 length and appear to fit my scamp prop open windows. 5/32 thickness should be close but will want more than 1/2 inch I think.
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