Rear Aluminum bumper Failure Bigfoot - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-12-2015, 09:25 PM   #29
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65" is long. On our CRV I was able to reduce that distance a couple of inches by pushing the ball mount further into its receiver. Small things that result improvement. Moving closer to the axle improves limited tongue weight ratings.
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Old 08-13-2015, 01:37 AM   #30
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I am having a 4x4 square steel 1/8" thick bumper installed. I will keep an eye on the extra weight added to the back by shifting weight to the tongue.

A friend of mine has the exact same trailer but two years newer. His trailer has a 4x4 steel bumper and not an aluminum one.
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:40 AM   #31
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If your BigFoot is big enough that might work out for you.


BUT... When I added a 38 lb set of levelers to the back of my Hunter, and offset it with a 42 lb battery on the tongue, it just plain didn't work out. I had lots more sway due to what's called the "Pendulum Effect" of adding weight well behind the axle. After pulling it 1200 miles I had to take it off and scrap the levelers.


Your 1/8" x 4" x 78" (?) sq steel tube will weigh a bit over 44 lbs. keep that in mind if it feels a little squirrely.
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Old 08-13-2015, 01:10 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
If your BigFoot is big enough that might work out for you.


BUT... When I added a 38 lb set of levelers to the back of my Hunter, and offset it with a 42 lb battery on the tongue, it just plain didn't work out. I had lots more sway due to what's called the "Pendulum Effect" of adding weight well behind the axle. After pulling it 1200 miles I had to take it off and scrap the levelers.


Your 4" x 78" (?) sq steel tube will weigh a bit over 44 lbs. keep that in mind if it feels a little squirrely.
The tubing used for Square tube RV bumpers is light gauge material thin enough to accept those rubber plug ends. As I said earlier mine weighed eleven pounds. It is only 4ft long though, as it was cut to fit the straight section of the Scamp bumper, leaving the angled section to protect the ends.
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:24 PM   #33
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The earlier post mentioned that they were using 1/8" wall x 4" square tubing. That comes out to a little over the mentioned 44 lbs. based on 5.1 lbs. sq.ft. for 1/8th plate. AKA: heavy, heavy & heavy....
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:36 PM   #34
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The earlier post mentioned that they were using 1/8" wall x 4" square tubing. That comes out to a little over the mentioned 44 lbs. based on 5.1 lbs. sq.ft. for 1/8th plate. AKA: heavy, heavy & heavy....
Your calculation is close but that is not the normal thickness for RV bumpers and standard RV end plugs won't fit.
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:36 AM   #35
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My experience with bikes on spare tire

While I would not recommend the practice to others, I have been hauling two bikes on a spare-mounted rack on a Bigfoot 17' for 70k miles. This has not been without incident.

Note that my Bigfoot has the springs sitting atop the axle. This significantly raises the body, giving more ground clearance. I would not consider a spare-mount bike rack otherwise.

Before driving with the bikes I had the spare tire mount [not the rack] reinforced. On either side of the mount, at the top, tubing was welded at a 45 degree angle down to the steel bumper. Steel strap was placed from the top of the mount forward and down around the bumper, then welded in place. This can be seen in one of the attached photos. I thought this would be enough. It was not.

The spare tire mount has a 3" or 4" long steel crosspiece with a hole in it. The hole is to accept the bolt that attaches the wheel. That piece broke after several months on the road, including rough and unpaved roads. The bikes and spare seemed secure, just tilted down against the bumper. I had a new heavier piece welded in place. As part of my walk-around I monitor the distance between the bottom of the spare and the bumper.

The big scare came a couple of years later. During a walk around, my practice at every stop, I noticed the bikes and spare were tilted back, away from the body. The welds holding the bumper to the frame were fine. The bumber metal itself had torn on both sides. I had triangles of steel plate welded at the bumper-frame interfaces. That was about four years ago. I keep a close eye on that. No problem so far.

I use the spare-mounted rack to save weight. I admit that I would like to get a receiver hitch and tray mounts. This may need require a custom s-shaped mount tube in order to get the trays up high enough that they will not bottom on steep driveways and to extend far back enough to clear the spare.
Attached Thumbnails
Tilted back.jpg   Weld Held Metal Torn.jpg  

Welded On Top.jpg   Welded Underneath.jpg  

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