Reflectix... how much to do interior? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-28-2018, 03:07 PM   #15
Raz
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Name: Raz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seaross View Post
Rex, itís a lot of work but if you are a handy man with patience itís doable. Here are a couple of pics, I have just completed mine 1 month ago. You can also check my link for details.Attachment 116311
Very nice job!
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Old 03-01-2018, 11:28 AM   #16
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Here are the pictures I posted yesterday.

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Originally Posted by rexrogers View Post
I think it's Ensolite but it's coming apart and off the walls. The white vinyl layer seems to have separated from the rest of it in lots of areas. I haven't yanked it yet. I considered trying to work with it but it's pretty bad. Also very moldy.



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Old 03-01-2018, 11:36 AM   #17
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Wow! It must smell horribly in there. I've only ever seen a "sticky" with the walls in that kind of condition.
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Old 03-01-2018, 11:56 AM   #18
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I have a question, and I don't know the answer. It may depend on the particular installation. It seems to me you do not want to trap moisure near solid fiberglass walls, where it can't escape. Noting that Reflectix is R 1.04 in insulating value.

Reflectix R-value claims reasonable? | Fine Homebuilding | Breaktime
"Don't get bamboozled by advertising claims that discuss long-wave and short-range radiation. What you want is R-value; that's what stops heat flow. Contrary to the misleading claims of some reflective insulation manufacturers, R-value measurements account for all three types of heat transfer -- radiant, conductive, and convective. According to ASTM C518 testing, Reflectix has an R-value of 1.04. That's quite low. If you can successfully construct a wall assembly that includes a 3/4 air gap on one or both sides of the Reflectix, the R-value of the entire wall assembly (not the R-value of the Reflectix) will go up. The increase in R-value is due to the R-value of the air space or spaces. However, this higher R-value depends upon the long-term maintenance of the air space, and will be degraded if the Reflectix ever sags. Moreover, the effect of the shiny radiant surface will be degraded over time by dust. Bottom line: get yourself some rigid polyisocyanurate foam."

So, does the use of Reflectix, a pretty good moisture barrier, contribute to mold conditions, or does it help avoid moisture -mold problems? Why?
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Old 03-01-2018, 12:09 PM   #19
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Wow! It must smell horribly in there. I've only ever seen a "sticky" with the walls in that kind of condition.
It was even worse. I've actually cleaned the walls that still have the vinyl skin and the cabinets some.

But you can see why I wanna just re-do the insulation and wall covering.
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Old 03-01-2018, 01:26 PM   #20
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OK, I am a save the Ensolite kind of guy, but that stuff has to go. It is not worth saving. A filter mask, and a very course wire brush / scraper on a drill and scrape it off. The foam will pack up on the brush if it is too fine, so something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Stripper-Pain.../dp/B00JGX2CQC
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Drill Scraper.jpg  
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Old 03-01-2018, 05:34 PM   #21
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Rex, will you be using your camper in winter? If not donít see why a well glued aluminum bubble will fail in preventing condensation in trailer. You will need to really clean well your fiberglass like photo I have attached.
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Old 03-01-2018, 06:55 PM   #22
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Name: Andrew
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200sq ft, and a gallon of contact cement

I just did this to my 1988 '13 scamp. I purchased 250sq ft, (125' LF, "24 wide) off eBay for about $90 (look up reflective double bubble wrap) and I still had about 75sq ft left with a lot of trim thrown out. Wall space might really only be 150sq ft or so.

In think the wall measurements are closer to:

Side wall: 5x8 (40sq ft)
Side wall: 5x8 (40sq ft)
Ceiling: 7x8 (56sq ft)
Front: 5x5 (25sq ft)
Rear:5x5 (25sq ft)

Total: 186sq ft - wheel wells, windows, and door
=150sq ft

This baffled me at first, but I got the same result with my carpet too. Windows and door takes up at least 25sqft or so and the rest must be deductions due to the overall eggyness (round corners everywhere) of the trailer.

The "24 width was nice to work with doing it myself, but if you have someone to help, you might be able to manage the "48 width sections.

You can check my posting history for some pics of it, and if I can find some more that are pre-carpet, I'll post them here.
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Old 03-01-2018, 07:28 PM   #23
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I had moisture between the FG and the double bobble insulation through my 2012 19í today. Ceiling, dinette, 5th wheel area. Bizarre. I gutted it all out today.

I called a couple double bubble companies today and they all said that with no air pocket between the FG and the marine carpet / liner there was no R value.

To me this whole water situation is insane. You know itís going to leak again through a window seal, weep drain, bad seal on a rivet etc. But people keep doing the same thing over and over.

So Iím going to glass in all the cabinets and supports to the shell, glass in the floors and then paint / gel coat the entire interior. Like a boat.

Yes there will be condensation, but there is with the rat fur too, you just canít clean it like you can a fiberglass gel coat wall and you canít get to the moisture behind the barriers without cutting into stuff.

This way you just crack the windows as needed and wipe down the walls if needed.

No mold, no dust, no gutting down the road. (Again)
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Old 03-01-2018, 08:11 PM   #24
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Ya, I went almost no holes, and sealed in my vent for that reason. Creating the air gap is the least fun part of the reflectix job, and the different ways to do that has been discussed in depth elsewhere on this site. I went with the inner layer shipping bubbles.
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