Refrigeration leak - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-02-2012, 07:17 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue and Henry View Post
. It looks like replacement with the same kind of 3 way is going to cost over $1,000. Jeepers! That's more than the last house refrigerator purchase. Does that sound right?
Yes it does but only if they install it for that! Camping world has a Norcold 2.7 3 way on sale for $799 but if you shop around you will find one for way cheaper than that. Actually a quick search came up with some at a place called bigdiscountrv.com selling them for $644.

Also take a look at Chucks website, seem to think he has some fridges as well.
__________________

Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2012, 08:15 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
3 way refrigerators usually have seperate hearing elements for ac and dc hook-up. The a/c is usually about 120 watts, the dc a few less, often as low as 90 watts, but that will still pull almost 8 amps.
__________________

__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2012, 09:28 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Looks like I should forget my wish for my old fridge to pack it in so I can get a new one as there doesnt appear to be any big improvement in regards to dc power consumption on the 3 ways. The Dometic site indicates a new replacement fridge for my old one pulls 10.5 amps. I suspect the one I have now pulls at the same or a bit more than that as I know the tow can provide 10 amps and it still cant keep up. Looking at the Norcold site it shows the ones in the right size range for our small trailers to be pulling between 11 to 12 amps in DC mode as well. Looks like if you want to drop down the DC amps down to the 3 amp range you need to go with the all electrical/dc type.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 12:34 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Sue and Henry's Avatar
 
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 575
Registry
I've been looking for replacements on line. There seems to be nothing with matching configurations.

The current broken one is a dometic 211 - h= 21 11/16 x w=19 5/8 x d=17 5/8. Their replacement is 21x17 3/4x21 1/2. It would be shorter and narrower and would stick out.

Norcold has one folks here like 21x19 3/8x24. That sound nice but it would stick out over 5 inches.

How frustrating.

help!! I posted this in the wrong spot and don't now how to move i! It belongs in refrigerator leak.
__________________
Sue and Henry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 01:14 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue and Henry View Post
I've been looking for replacements on line. There seems to be nothing with matching configurations.

The current broken one is a dometic 211 - h= 21 11/16 x w=19 5/8 x d=17 5/8. Their replacement is 21x17 3/4x21 1/2. It would be shorter and narrower and would stick out.

Norcold has one folks here like 21x19 3/8x24. That sound nice but it would stick out over 5 inches.

How frustrating.
Proper fit might be a good reason to look into repair of your out-of-commission fridge- another good reason being the very high price of new units.


Francesca
__________________
.................................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 01:20 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Sue and Henry's Avatar
 
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 575
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Looks like I should forget my wish for my old fridge to pack it in so I can get a new one as there doesnt appear to be any big improvement in regards to dc power consumption on the 3 ways. The Dometic site indicates a new replacement fridge for my old one pulls 10.5 amps. I suspect the one I have now pulls at the same or a bit more than that as I know the tow can provide 10 amps and it still cant keep up. Looking at the Norcold site it shows the ones in the right size range for our small trailers to be pulling between 11 to 12 amps in DC mode as well. Looks like if you want to drop down the DC amps down to the 3 amp range you need to go with the all electrical/dc type.
Carol, do you run the refrigerator on propane when you are travelling? Is it safe to do that? I have not and it might make a difference in the unit I use for replacement. I have never run it on propane, but have not really had a boondock trip yet. If its safe to use while in motion I guess I'd better fix it or replace with another 3 way unit.
__________________
Sue and Henry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 01:43 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue and Henry View Post
Carol, do you run the refrigerator on propane when you are travelling? Is it safe to do that? I have not and it might make a difference in the unit I use for replacement. I have never run it on propane, but have not really had a boondock trip yet. If its safe to use while in motion I guess I'd better fix it or replace with another 3 way unit.
I'm a dedicated boondocker who rarely camps with shorepower...I run my 3-way almost exclusively on propane, shutting it down only when gassing up or boarding ferries, where shutdown of all tanks is required. The only problem I've ever had in the 40,000 plus miles I've towed the trailer has been the occasional snuffing out of the flame by wind- and that's usually due to my own failure to close the flame windscreen.

Frankly, if I had to buy a new multi-way fridge, I wouldn't look/pay for the 12v function at all. That function is really only practical when underway since once the tow vehicle stops providing power an ordinary trailer battery will run dry in a matter of hours if being used to power the fridge.

And since I don't trust myself to remember to switch to propane every time I stop, I never use the 12v function!

Francesca
__________________
.................................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 01:49 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Sue and Henry's Avatar
 
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 575
Registry
Sound sensible. I was afraid to use the propane while moving, and have been using the battery - but as you say, it is not satisfactory. Any ideas on propane/electric without the battery option?
__________________
Sue and Henry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 02:12 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue and Henry View Post
Sound sensible. I was afraid to use the propane while moving, and have been using the battery - but as you say, it is not satisfactory. Any ideas on propane/electric without the battery option?
Hey!

I responded to a question you asked in another thread- looks like a Mod moved it over here...

To sort of enlarge on that response:

If I were faced with the failed fridge problem, I'd start by looking into the actual cost of replacing the cooling unit...not just to match the cutout size, but because I just can't stand to replace something that can be repaired- especially if it can be done for substantially less than the cost of a new unit.

There's also the advantage, at least in my case, that my present unit uses NO electric power when on propane, and many of the newer 3-ways require electricity even when running on propane. There's not a huge power draw, but there's some, and my no-frills camping style is to use/need as little power as possible.

That having been said...
I haven't looked into it, but I think it likely that a TRUE "2-way" (propane/110v) would be quite a bit cheaper than a three-way. Do take care not to get sidetracked onto so-called "2-ways" that are 12v/110v. Those are really just "all-electric" and in my opinion should be marketed that way.

Francesca
__________________
.................................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 03:57 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue and Henry View Post
Carol, do you run the refrigerator on propane when you are travelling? Is it safe to do that?
Nope I dont. I would be to scared if someone hit me when traveling with it on. Have seen what happens when propane goes bang! Also suspect I would forget to shut it off when I went to fill up at a gas station.

I shut the fridge down when traveling and keep 3 freezer packs in the freezer section when the fridge is running and take them out and put them beside items that really need to be kept cold while traveling. Works fine. I have added extra insulation on the outside walls of my fridge to help it keep cool & I dont open it.

The need for a 3 way really has a lot to do with where you camp. In my case I do travel south a lot but I also live in the Pacific Northwest where I also camp. If I lived and only camped in the south with lots of sun I would be fine with getting a newer all DC type fridge that only pulls 3 amps or so as my solar panel would be able to keep up with that pull. The problem is in Pacific Northwest there is lots of tree coverage in most camping areas and often a lack of sun so the solar just will not keep up - the amount of solar needed to keep up under such conditions is more than my trailers roof could hold. Thus the reason I need & use the propane option a lot.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 04:04 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
many of the newer 3-ways require electricity even when running on propane.
Francesca

They do? Geezz which ones? The Norcold and Dometic specs I have been looking at dont indicate that.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 04:44 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
They do? Geezz which ones? The Norcold and Dometic specs I have been looking at dont indicate that.
The Norcold series covered by this instruction manual, for one example: https://www.dyersonline.com/lightspe...itfile_id/604/

Not that these particular units would fit this application...just a heads-up that SOME 3-way fridges still use some electricity when used on the "propane" setting.


Francesca
__________________
.................................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2012, 06:29 AM   #27
Senior Member
 
Alf S.'s Avatar
 
Name: Alfred
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2010 Nissan Frontier
Ontario
Posts: 3,816
Registry
Send a message via Yahoo to Alf S.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue and Henry View Post
Sound sensible. I was afraid to use the propane while moving, and have been using the battery - but as you say, it is not satisfactory. Any ideas on propane/electric without the battery option?
Hi: Sue and Henry... Here's a link to my local RV fridge tech. I know you can't send your fridge to them...but it proves they can be rebuilt. I'm sure you have someone on the "Left Coast" who could do it!!! http://www.gammonsrv.com
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
__________________
Alf S. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2012, 07:57 AM   #28
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
"2 way" most often refers to LP & 120 VAC and, occasionally, LP & 12 VDC. The few 120 VAC/12 VDC boxes I have seen were compressor models.

Some newer refrigerators do require a small amount of DC to operate the control and ignition systems.
__________________

__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Leak? cyndi H Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 11-09-2009 01:07 AM
Need help with leak Brenda Ferrell Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 7 01-01-2008 05:20 PM
A/C leak? Linda&Dale Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 7 03-11-2007 05:50 PM
Leak Legacy Posts Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 06-27-2003 04:14 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:31 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.