Refrigerator Auto Igniter - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-05-2006, 12:01 AM   #1
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I have repaired/rejigged/aligned all my appliances. The refrigerator, an Instamatic D422C 2-way (120v and gas) works great on shore power. On gas, the automatic igniter is supposed to make a clicking sound as it tries to light. It does not. I can run the refrigerator manually, but that requires two people, one inside depressing the gas knob, and one outside with matches at the burner. I have checked and confirmed all the wiring as correct.

What troubleshooting steps can anyone recommend?

Where can I get a replacement auto ignter "box"?

Has anyone replaced these with a manual pieziometric one?

Thanks in advance...

Victor
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Old 07-05-2006, 07:25 AM   #2
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have you tryed a google search on he part number of the ignitor?
while not your model good info from your mfg
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/im.pdf
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Old 07-05-2006, 05:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
The refrigerator, an Instamatic D422C 2-way (120v and gas) works great on shore power. On gas, the automatic igniter is supposed to [b]make a clicking sound as it tries to light. It does not.
I am not at my trailer to confirm, But I also have a Fiber Stream with an Instamatic 2-way (120v & gas) refrigerator. I do not recall my specific moder number, so it may not be the same as yours. My Fiber Stream is older than yours...

In my refrigerator, the igniter DOES NOT make a clicking sound. If you push the igniter button once, It sparks [b]once. If it does not light, then you have to let go, and then push the igniter button again... and again... until it lights. It was not designed to just push & hold in until it lights.
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Old 07-06-2006, 12:39 PM   #4
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Al:

Thanks so much for the link to the service manual. That is exactly what I needed. The manual that came with the refrigerator is just too vague on many of the items.

I have power to the 12v terminal block. I have a complete circuit on the ground side to the actual igniter. I do not have power to the igniter itself, so I suspect the igniter switch, and this manual is just the ticket to take my investigations further.

Frederick;
Per the manual, my model of igniter is designed to keep sparking as long as the igniter switch is depressed. At the moment, I don't even get one spark. I don't know the auto igniter is the problem, sincve I can't get power to the auto-igniter. If it turns out the auto igniter is the problem, I have found an after-market replacement that even stops sparking when the flame is established, but it comes in at $77!! I can easily remove the auto-igniter and bench test it as well.

VIctor
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Old 07-06-2006, 05:31 PM   #5
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I'm glad Al had the correct info for you. I know now that my fridge is an earlier model than yours.
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Old 07-08-2006, 08:41 PM   #6
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Here's closure on this chapter.

Well, the fridge igniter works now. I had 12v power to the frige, but not to the igniter. Reviewing the excellent link that Al gave us led me to suspect the ignition switch. When I pulled the gas controller, I realized the igniter switch was a standard lever switch. It has a long metal lever arm that is engaged by a lobe on the gas/electric control rod. This arm had been bent away from the control rod, never activiating and sending power to the auto igniter. Working on the switch, I broke it. Off to the parts supply depots looking for a switch. Turns out that a QB Products 28QBP0507 is a very good fit, except the arm is about 3/4" too long. Easily trimmed with tin snips. Installed that, tested the circuit, and everything works beautifully. In fact the igniter has an auto-feedback loop through the thermocouple, shutting it down once a flame is detected.

A few notes to the wise, the wiring diagram stuck to my refrigerator was wrong, showing some extra circuits I do not have, such as a interior light in the refrigerator. The wiring diagram in Al's link was correct.

Al's link is worth adding to out board's list. Bryant RV Services has many old operating and service manuals, plus a link to a couple of out-of-production parts suppliers.

Victor
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