Refrigerator is working again, but??? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:56 AM   #1
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Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
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Refrigerator is working again, but???

My 36 yr old refrigerator has not worked on the propane setting since I got the trailer last year. So I've been using it on A/C and it worked just fine or as an ice box. Last week I was getting ready for a boondocking trip so I thought I'd try to get the fridge going on the gas mode. Following everyones' advise on this forum, I disconnected the gas lines at all points to the fridge and blew them out, thinking there may be a spider web in there. I was surprised that a liquid (I believe water) came out at 2 of the connection points. Can anyone tell me what caused moisture to build up in the gas line? The regulator was shot so I replaced it at the beginning of summer, so is it possible the faulty regulator could have caused the condensation in the line?
Good news is that after I reconnected everything the refrigerator worked great on the gas mode. It started right up with the piezo starter. The refrigerator kept everything very cold for 5 days so I was very pleased.
THANK YOU all for all the great information I've gotten from the forum. You've saved me countless dollars in repair bills from all the items I've fixed or upgraded myself. There's a lot of self satisfaction too that goes along with doing these projects and getting great results. I'm a happy camper!

Linda
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:36 PM   #2
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I performed a search and found a thread that touched on some of this but I'm still unsure about whether that liquid in the gas line is caused from the old regulator (and if so I don't need to worry about it since I've replaced it), or something with the fridge (which means I should disconnect the lines again after a while and see if liquid is in the lines again). If the refrigerator's gas pilot light continues to light and the refrigerator works, I'm thinking its a non-issue now and won't worry about it.
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Old 11-12-2013, 01:07 PM   #3
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It's my understanding that propane companies and other gas providers work pretty hard to keep moisture out of their products. But I'm thinking that a small amount might get by, over 36 years, and condense in your lines. To me, it doesn't seem like a real problem.
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Old 11-12-2013, 01:47 PM   #4
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Trailer: Scamp 13
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When I got my Scamp 13 last winter the fridge worked on 12 volt and 120 volt but not on gas so I figured it was a gas issue. I replaced the 26 year old gas regulator and rubber lines and figured it’s done its time. Then I disconnected the fridge to get to the orifice and when I disconnected the line there was a substance dark like pancake syrup in the bottom of the line. I had to flush that line out. I flushed out the orifice but it was clean going in anyway. I put it back together and tried to light the burner it didn’t work. I had to open up the burner area to get to the burner and remove the burner cover. When I got the burner cover off, inside was the tiniest spider web across the burners gas port. Looked like a fine silk pad the diameter of a match head. This was blocking the gas flow. I cleaned it all back up and reassembled the fridge and fired it up and all worked like new. If your fridge is still stock and no one messed with it save yourself allot of hassle and get yourself a 14 inch long not including the handle #2 Phillips screwdriver with a small diameter shank. There are screws holding the burner cover that you can’t reach with a standard screwdriver and the long handle gets it out of the compartment where you can turn the screw. you will need a really short #1 Phillips bit to get the screw holding the burner in place. The last tip when you go to put the screws in place I used a piece of masking tape to hold the screw where I wanted it and once you get the screw started pull off the piece of tape. For most of the screw work you are working one handed and blind and have to feel your way around. These old fridges once installed are not maintenance easy.
As always working around propane is dangerous. Seek professional help and guidance to ensure your safety. i am not a professional and do not profess to be.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:08 PM   #5
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Name: Linda
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Thanks for the info Steve and Terry. Its working quite well for now so I'll use your method Steve if it blocks up again. Spider webs are an issue around here so knowing how to get to that compartment helps. I couldn't get in that part and I stuck a bendable match lighter in there in an attempt to burn all the suckers out of the pilot light compartment. I didn't think there were wires in there to harm since that's where the pilot is. Don't know if that's what helped or just getting the liquid out of the gas lines. I've got my fingers crossed that it will work again next April when my next trip is planned.
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Old 11-12-2013, 04:59 PM   #6
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Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
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If you look at the gas supply line feeding almost every home furnace there is a drip leg to trap moisture so it does not enter the furnace.
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
If you look at the gas supply line feeding almost every home furnace there is a drip leg to trap moisture so it does not enter the furnace.
Are you saying that water in the gas line is normal? The area where the moisture collected was an area where the line dipped down before going up to the fridge. I was concerned that it may cause a big problem with the fridge. Its old, but as long as it works I'd like to keep it working. The new ones are so pricey.
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:45 PM   #8
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Not all gas contains moisture but it is not uncommon . In colder climates gas piping is run underground below the frost line than comes above ground into a meter that is located outdoors and then piped inside into a warm building so condensation is an issue . The drip leg traps moisture and rust and scale from the gas piping . I am not sure if it is a UPC requirement or a local code but it is usually specified in the product literature for furnaces and water heaters to protect the appliance. We used to have to switch from NG to propane during winter cold snaps and had to heat the propane and run it into a vaporizer at below zero temps so we could burn the gas We encountered moisture problems in the propane
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Old 11-22-2013, 05:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otters View Post
Are you saying that water in the gas line is normal? The area where the moisture collected was an area where the line dipped down before going up to the fridge. I was concerned that it may cause a big problem with the fridge. Its old, but as long as it works I'd like to keep it working. The new ones are so pricey.
A propane fridge requires a constant and standard pressure to work. Gas regulator often get contaminated by residual moisture from tanks or oil residue. In the same way you may fill up your car with contaminated gas and have problems, propane stations are not immune to similar contamination.

Two years ago after I reinstalled my propane furnace and a working used fridge on my Trillium 4500 1977, I noticed the gas stove flames were PULSATING ! I found out there was a buildup of oily residue at the lowest section of cupper piping under the floor of the RV. So I drained with compressed air and installed a new gas regulator. It worked fine for a season. This spring, the gas regulator tank indicator jammed (two tank model). I found out the same oily residue in it that appears to have glued the indicator mechanism. I suspect a contaminated old propane tank (now retired after 10 years) I had to have caused the repeat problem.
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:19 PM   #10
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Thanks for that information Martin. Whatever is the cause, it sounds as if its not that uncommon. The fridge working for now and I'll just check it in the spring when I bring it out for my May trip and then periodically after that.
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