Regulator for Propane tank - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-24-2013, 01:11 PM   #1
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Regulator for Propane tank

We think the regulator on our propane tank is malfunctioning. I the regulator on the Scamp the same as on a propane grill? Where can we buy a new regulator?
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:19 PM   #2
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We think the regulator on our propane tank is malfunctioning. I the regulator on the Scamp the same as on a propane grill? Where can we buy a new regulator?
It's not the same as on the grill. The RV regulator is a 2 stage regulator and final pressure is lower than the single stage used for standard backyard BBQ grills. Any RV place will have replacement regulators.

What are the symptoms that make you think the regulator is defective?
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:34 PM   #3
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Bryon is exactly correct, RVs use a 2 stage regulator. A regulator for a single tank costs about $25, for 2 tanks they cost between $35-$50 depending if you want a manual change over or automatic.
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:42 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post

It's not the same as on the grill. The RV regulator is a 2 stage regulator and final pressure is lower than the single stage used for standard backyard BBQ grills. Any RV place will have replacement regulators.

What are the symptoms that make you think the regulator is defective?
Is there an approx. range that the output should be for my Scamp 2 burner stove and heater? The symptoms are low flame on the stove and no ignition on the heater. We have changer to a full LP tank and the igniter on the heater is sparking.

Thanks,
Eleta
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:01 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Eleta View Post
Is there an approx. range that the output should be for my Scamp 2 burner stove and heater? The symptoms are low flame on the stove and no ignition on the heater. We have changer to a full LP tank and the igniter on the heater is sparking.

Thanks,
Eleta
It could be the regulator, it also could be some sort of blockage in the propane line. If the tanks was disconnected or the regulator disconnected for some time spider nest are possible. Spiders love propane lines.

In order for the furnace to light there has to be enough battery to make the fan run fast enough. There's a vane inside that keeps the propane off until the vane moves enough to allow the valve to open.

With all this it might not be a bad idea to take it to an RV repair shop for an estimate on cost of repairs. They can check propane line pressure, and flow.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:06 PM   #6
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I believe the gas output should be 11 WC "
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:50 PM   #7
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It's not the same as on the grill. The RV regulator is a 2 stage regulator and final pressure is lower than the single stage used for standard backyard BBQ grills.
I agree, except...
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
I believe the gas output should be 11 WC "
This pressure of 11 inches of water column - which is the standard for RVs - is also commonly (but not always) the pressure used by a grill (and thus the output pressure of a regulator intended for a grill). My barbecue, for instance, does run on 11"WC.

So, you may know someone who has successfully used a grill's regulator for their RV (because the pressure is correct), but this is still not acceptable because it should be a two-stage regulator for an RV.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:14 PM   #8
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Here is a good article on RV propane regulators and how they should be tested and mounted called Propane Safety and Use.
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:20 PM   #9
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Here is a good article on RV propane regulators and how they should be tested and mounted called Propane Safety and Use.
There's lots of good stuff in that.

There are several items in the article which may be correct for the U.S., but not for Canada; however, they are not related to regulators.
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:37 PM   #10
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I had a problem with my two tank setup for a while. One of the tanks would not consistently deliver gas to the system, and I had to swap tanks if I wanted to pull propane from my second tank.

Propane hose connections have little check valves in them so that propane doesn't flow backward out of the system when you disconnect a tank. The valve at the end of one of my two hoses was stuck shut. I replaced the hose, and now everything works fine.
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:08 PM   #11
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I had a somewhat similar problem to Peter's: the spacer which is included in the QCC hose connector as a sort of thermal fuse cracked and fell off in cold weather, triggering the same flow blockage action as the design intends in case of fire. A new hose (which is the practical way to get a new connector) got the propane flowing again.

I suppose the lesson is that there are a few links in the chain of propane plumbing components, and the failure could be in unexpected components, especially as some of these parts have become more complex in recent years due to added safety features.

On the other hand, regulators are relatively cheap so I might just change it - in the worst case if the problem is not the regulator I would have effectively purchased a spare.
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:30 PM   #12
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Was everything working before? If yes most likely not the valve.
The new style valve in the tank will shut down if it senses to much gas flow.
Open the valves on the stove slowly and light each one to purge your line.
The furnace most likely has a line full of air. Short of purging the line at the furnace, just let it cycle on its own until it lights.
I have had a tank with a bad valve I used on the grill did the same thing. Try changing tanks before buying a new valve.
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:25 PM   #13
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Hi,

Problem solved. Thanks to all for your suggestions. The problem turned out to be a poorly charged battery. The battery no load voltage was 11.4 volts. There was enough power to run the fan and igniter, but not enough to open the gas valve solenoid. BTW good suggestion about the fan air flow needed to close the safety valve. There was enough air column to close the switch. Bottom line, charge the battery!

Thanks to everyone for the helpful suggestions. Happy Scamping!
Eleta
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:11 AM   #14
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............ The problem turned out to be a poorly charged battery. The battery no load voltage was 11.4 volts. ..........
Eleta
As a side note, discharging your battery below 12 volts damages it quite a bit. You can buy a batter voltmeter that sticks in the power point rather inexpensively to monitor batter charge level.

INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor : Amazon.com : Automotive


DC 12V 24V Digital Red LED Auto Car Truck System V Voltmeter Gauge Voltage Meter | eBay

Both would work. The first one is better quality.
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