reinstalling fixtures without rivets - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-27-2012, 10:45 AM   #1
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reinstalling fixtures without rivets

Several questions please,

We are preparing to reinstall fixtures (again) and intend to glue wood blocks to the interior of the shell to attach the furniture fixtures, rather than rivets.

Installing new ensolite first, so there will be some cushion between the shell and the furniture but not sure what to do about the edges of the furniture.

Looking for ideas for what to do about the old rivet holes, since they will not be used for the new attachment. Thinking about a piece of fg mat on the back and then fill the hole then paint.



If we cut the fiberglass flange off of the furniture it will probably look better but I think it will sacrifice the structural stability that the furniture offers. Wasn't going to put the plastic strips on the edges, maybe I should?

Ideas please??

Any suggestions as to what paint for the interior furniture? It is sanded and ready to prime, hoping to learn what others have used successfully.

Thanks in advance,
cat
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:16 PM   #2
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Sounds like a complete redo!

If you're going to paint the trailer anyway, filling the rivet holes as you describe would probably work.

Per the new means of attachment:

I'm not familiar with your particular trailer, but as you state above, the interior fixtures often also serve to provide extra structural support. Since you're installing wood to attach the cabinets to, you might consider glassing it on instead of using glue. That's the method used by such manufacturers as "Escape", who don't use through-rivets to attach interior fixtures.

Just a thought!

Francesca
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:42 PM   #3
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Fransesca,

Thanks for your input, it's a good idea to glass in those wooden blocks. Do you know how big the blocks are in the Escape, and how close they are placed? Feel free to offer any other ideas that come to mind.

Yes, we are doing a total frame off redo. (That wasn't the original plan, we just kinda fell into it).

Sorry I wasn't clear about which rivet holes, we have already repaired all of the holes in the shell, I was looking for solutions for the holes in the furniture.

Cathy
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:51 PM   #4
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When replaced my Ensolite, I first glassed in 1/4" x 3" strips of plywood along the entire length of the cabinet. I did it this way for strength and also it gave me an area to stop the Ensolite. I only ended up with two seams this way. After glassing in the plywood strips, I installed the Ensolite and cut it back 1/4" from the plywood. This was the cabinets fit tight to the fiberglass and the Ensolite acted like a filler for area's that were off. I painted the Ensolite, but before doing it I caulked any glaring errors and painted right over both the caulking and Ensolite. I turned out great. Good luck with your re-build.
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:56 PM   #5
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Dan,

Would you please give me a little more information? With the plywood only projecting 1/4 inch from the shell, how did you attach the furniture to it?
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:07 PM   #6
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"Sorry I wasn't clear about which rivet holes, we have already repaired all of the holes in the shell, I was looking for solutions for the holes in the furniture."

They make little covers that are meant to hide screws etc. They have a tab on one end that pushes into the phillips screw slot. Get some of those and put a drop of glue on them to hold them in place.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:09 PM   #7
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Good idea Steve, thanks!
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat futrell View Post
Dan,

Would you please give me a little more information? With the plywood only projecting 1/4 inch from the shell, how did you attach the furniture to it?
If I'm reading his post right, I think Dan trimmed the ensolite about 1/4 inch back/away from the plywood strip, which is glassed directly to the fiberglass it's mated to...

I can't answer your question as to how exactly Escape does the install, but Dan's description of his method sounds good and secure to me!

It does occur to me to ask, though:

It sounds like the cabinets you're reinstalling are also fiberglass, and that they have tabs or edges that you're thinking of trimming off- is that correct? If so, is there any reason why you couldn't leave these edges on and glass them directly to the interior of the fiberglass shell, and forego the plywood altogether?

Again referring to a (different) manufacturer's method, that's the way my Trillium was built, and the method which I believe is still used by its current manufacturer.


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Old 10-27-2012, 11:22 PM   #9
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my question concerns the plywood strips . if they are laid flat against the fiberglass then that only leaves 1 quarter inches of wood to bite into when it attaching the cabinets or do you sup pose that he attached plywood standing on end so that there's a 3 inch cleat to attach the furniture? Or am I totally missing something here? - it wouldn't be the first time
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:35 PM   #10
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Oh, yeah- I see what you mean- 1/4" thickness isn't much to fasten to, whether coming in from the side or front. I read that as 3/4 the first time through...

Hope he comes back and clarifies!

Francesca
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:32 AM   #11
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I believe DannyH installed wood furniture. Molded fiberglass furniture might not fit with the added plywood. Here's DannyH's trailer. Enjoy Raz


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Old 10-29-2012, 11:03 AM   #12
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Thanks Raz,

That does make sense now. Any suggestions on this subject. Would love to make wood cabinets - recently read about a Boler renovation that actually didn't add weight with wood cabinets, way over my head and energy level at this time. Really inventive though.

1979 Boler Renovation
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