Removing Casita Benches

[Legacy Posts]

So i was cleaning up the Casita and discovered that a mouse had decided to make my Caista it's home during the winter. I have been removing all of the kick plates and vacuming up all of the little "presents" left behind by my winter guest.

I am trying to remove the rear benches, but in the process cannot figure out how remove the bench that contains the pump, water heater and power converer.

It seems like the power converter will not come out with the bench, nor does it seem like it can be removed from the bench. Do i have to disconnect all of the wires in the converter before it can be removed? If i just had enough slack in the wires i could just lay it down on the face, but there isn't enough slack....

Help!!!!

Thanks...

[Legacy Posts]

bdavid, your going to have to tell you friend to move. we don't allow mice in our trailers, only Rats. :yep. :lol

sorry I can't help with your problem, but some one will come alone, Someone is always takeing something out and redoing are placing something. if you get impatient call Casita. :)

[Legacy Posts]

Best call Casita for advice

Seems to me that the converter is held onto the bench by six bolts, which you should be able to remove. Don't think there's a part of the bench that runs under the converter.

I believe it just rests on the floor with a piece of wood supporting the rear of the converter.

Also, there are no kick-plates under the bench containing the converter ... as long as your vacuum has a hose attachment, you should be able to vacuum it pretty well without removing the bench or converter.

[Legacy Posts]

Jana,

Thanks. I may just have to give them a call. I figured out how my "guest" got in. After coming home during the last trip of the year, i cleaned, unpacked and plugged in to the electricity from my garage. I must have left it plugged in for a while, because when i winterized a few weeks later i noticed that it was still plugged in. The mouse must have crawled right up the cable to the opening where the power cord comes out. On my trailer, mice, mosquitoes, or any other realtively small bug or critter could easily come right in.

Now i know to stuff a rag or something in there if i'm going to be plugged in.


Charles,

I noticed the bolts, but if i remove them the only way it could come out is if it was pulled towards you, and the cables hold it in place. Seems like there should be an easy way to do it. What if you had to access the water pump or something???

I'll give Casita a call...


Thanks...

[Legacy Posts]

bdavid:

I think the converter stays put and the bench will come up from around it....(Casita knows).

I have a photo of the rear bench removed but it's a liberty floorplan whereas the converter is in the adjoining bench (which I haven't removed).

Good luck, let us know how it works.

[Legacy Posts]

Orginally posted by skp

Here is how I have eliminated the pests from coming up the cord.<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3ea93f3f72e66shorepower.jpg/>

Someone else did this too, skp. I like the looks alot. what is this thing called?

[Legacy Posts]

I spoke to Charles at Casta the other day and got the story. To completely remove the bench, you have to disconnect the wires from the power converter. It is not that difficult to do if you have the time. You really have to make note of where every wire goes...


Thanks for all of the advice..

[Legacy Posts]

maybe this one will...

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/in...fm?skunum=20300

[Legacy Posts]

$90 *plus* installation! Yikes! :quiet

Use this instead:

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb046e8063b6inlet.jpg/>

This is called a "male motor base", and I found it a Hilltop Trailer sales, an RV dealer in Minneapolis.

Using this, you can use an inexpensive 14 gauge power cord instead of the bulky, dirty cord that must be stuffed int the trailer when you are finished, dirtying everything in the storage compartment.

The downside is you can only use 15 amps with it, which really isn't a downside. Unless you are running multiple high-wattage appliannces all at the same time, you don't need 30 amps.

I've put this into my Scamp cable hatch:

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eb0482904452inlet3.jpg/>

along with a 15 amp main breaker to prevent overloading the inlet. See "modifications and repairs" on my web site for more about this and other things I've done to my Scamp. :sunny

-- Dan Meyer