Removing Ensolite, any tricks?? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-13-2010, 08:06 PM   #1
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Removing Ensolite, any tricks??

Hi all, I am knee deep in what is turning out to be a major refit of our 13' Scamp! I have removed some of the ensolite from small areas to do some fiberglass work and short of using my grinder have not found an easy way to remove the glue and backing of the ensolite from the walls. Now I want to bond a piece of plywood to the wall between the upper and lower galley cabinets in order to put in some glass tiles. So, is there a tricky way to get this stuff off the walls? I have not tried my heat gun yet, would that work?
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:11 PM   #2
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Trailer: 1978 Boler B1700 RGH
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We removed all the ensolite from our 17 ft. Boler last month and the only thing we found that worked for us to remove the remaining ensolite and glue that was stuck to the walls was the grinder. It was a big job to grind the whole interior but we got it done.

Don
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:33 PM   #3
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I remove most of the ensolite with a Multi Master with a flat scraper blade. I then use a DeWalt 4" grinder with a cone shape wire brush to remove the foam. When I want to apply fiberglass to an area I remove the glue with my grinder and twisted wire 4" flat twisted wire brush.
Eddie
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:28 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
I remove most of the ensolite with a Multi Master with a flat scraper blade. I then use a DeWalt 4" grinder with a cone shape wire brush to remove the foam. When I want to apply fiberglass to an area I remove the glue with my grinder and twisted wire 4" flat twisted wire brush.
Eddie
anyone try a heat gun?
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:08 PM   #5
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I'm with Eddie...

I'm stripping out the ensolite in my 71 Boler. The Multi-tool does the job well, though it is still tedious.

However, after I've scraped, brushed and sanded my walls as far as I can muster, I will blast everything with a power washer to remove any an all remaining residue.

Special attention to details will be paid to critical areas. Then everything gets sealed with a coating of two-part marine epoxy.
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:30 PM   #6
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I'm with Eddie...

I'm stripping out the ensolite in my 71 Boler. The Multi-tool does the job well, though it is still tedious.

However, after I've scraped, brushed and sanded my walls as far as I can muster, I will blast everything with a power washer to remove any an all remaining residue.

Special attention to details will be paid to critical areas. Then everything gets sealed with a coating of two-part marine epoxy.
What if anything are you replacing the ensolite with?
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:50 AM   #7
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Until I find a quality replacement material that matches the Ensolite, I will continue following the lead of Scamp: an insulating layer of Reflectix; covered by any variety of options, but probably a quality, heady-duty upholstery fabric. I have had much success going this way...
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:23 AM   #8
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Until I find a quality replacement material that matches the Ensolite, I will continue following the lead of Scamp: an insulating layer of Reflectix; covered by any variety of options, but probably a quality, heady-duty upholstery fabric. I have had much success going this way...
Thanks!
I used Reflectix to insulate my luggage compartments and it works great. I stopped at the interior as I'm stumped as to how to attach it and the covering material to the visible inside walls. Can you give me any tips re how to go about doing that so it looks good and stays put?
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Old 03-03-2011, 01:40 PM   #9
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Thanks!
I used Reflectix to insulate my luggage compartments and it works great. I stopped at the interior as I'm stumped as to how to attach it and the covering material to the visible inside walls. Can you give me any tips re how to go about doing that so it looks good and stays put?
Here's what I have done:

Once the interior walls are stripped and washed clean of any former wall covering, glue and ancillary debris (revealing relatively clean fiberglass) I am ready to cement the Reflectix to the walls.

Here you have a couple options: I have also used water-based contact cement and a roller, as well as a spray adhesive. (3M Super90 is the strongest stuff I've found on the retail shelves.) In either case, the cement is applied to both surfaces—the fiberglass AND on to the Reflectix; allow time for both sides to get tacky, then firmly press the insulation into position.

Due to the compound curves inherent in the shell, you will have to cut some of the insulation into odd shapes to fit. But it works. When all of the insulation is up, I use a "crack'n'peel" aluminum-foil type of duct tape (super sticky) to cover all of my seams and edges.

To adhere the wall covering to the insulation, I spray the 3M Super90 onto the insulation only, and press my pre-cut fabric into position. (FYI: "rat fur" is used by Scamp and others because it is very stretchy and flexible—plus, hides a lot of errors!) Obviously, you will want to keep your seams created by abutting sections of fabric straight and to a minimum.

For a professional look, those seams will require some special attention.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:48 PM   #10
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Thanks,it helps a lot. I'd really appreciate seeing a picture of the end result if you have any.
Googling "rat fur" didn't lead me anywhere except back here!
Do you know the official name of the product?
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:59 PM   #11
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Check the portfolio page of my website to see some of the wall covering options. TEP Fiberglass Camper Restoration

Visit Scampstore.com and check there for wall covering. What they sell is the ubiquitous rat fur...
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:01 PM   #12
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Here is the link to Scamps "rat fur" eadliner material: Tan Headliner Wall Fabric (Per Sq. Yd.)
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Old 03-04-2011, 12:32 AM   #13
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Thanks, guys!
I can't tell by looking- is the "rat fur" smooth (washable) or- well, "furry" ?
The grandkids do better with washable surfaces...
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