Removing Oxidation and Rust marks on fiberglass - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-03-2009, 11:50 PM   #1
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Trailer: 1992 13 ft Scamp
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Looking for some help with removing oxidation build up on my 13' scamp and rust spots caused from the front hardware at window shield. All help would be much appreciated. In addition I would like to thank you all for the wonderful information posted here,it has helped tremendously.

DavidS
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:26 AM   #2
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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For removing oxidation, I would recommend a rubbing and/or polishing compound (or compounds). They vary in how heavy duty they are (so you can match up the least "gritty" one with what you need). Typically, one rubs, then polishes, then waxes.

Basically, when you're using the rubbing compound, you're removing a very thin layer of gelcoat, so you want to keep it to the minimum necessary to get the job done. Then you use the polishing compound. Afterward, a good paste wax with UV inhibitors will help to stave off the oxidation.

Meguiars makes a good line with various levels, as does 3M and others. You can find them at boating stores since a great number of boats are fiberglass.

When I've done boats I've rented one of the big silver/metal buffers and used something like a 3M Superbuff type pad. I didn't have much luck with "homeowner" buffers, but they might work fine if your trailer is only lightly oxidized.

Wetsanding paper is another way to remove oxidation, and gets where the buffer can't. Start by figuring out what grit you need. I start with a really fine grit and test-move to a grittier one (lower number) until it does the job. Then you can start to really sand with that one and work your way back up to fine grits. I can't imagine you'd want to go lower than 600, and you might go as high as 1500.

FSR (Fiberglass Stain Remover) does a great job on things like rust stains. I think it's just some type of acid, but it's in a friendly blue gel, and it's pretty amazing. You just put it on and hose it off.

Raya
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:38 AM   #3
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Quote:
Looking for some help with removing oxidation build up on my 13' scamp and rust spots caused from the front hardware at window shield. All help would be much appreciated. In addition I would like to thank you all for the wonderful information posted here,it has helped tremendously.
DavidS
David, This older post might give you some insights...

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...st&p=198735

and

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...mp;#entry198738

Good luck.
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:52 AM   #4
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Here is my notes from about 5 years ago.

CLEANING FIBERGLASS

If you rub the fiberglass with your hand and get white residue on your fingers, you definitely need to clean this oxidation off before polishing or waxing.

Go to the auto parts store or a marine store and get either some "3M White Scotch-Brite cleaning pads" or the "3M gray super fine pads". Don't use the more abrasive Scotch-Brite pads or you will have to end up wet sanding the scratches out. The gray pads are finer than the white and do a great job.

The gray pad is better for cleaning the oxidation off the fiberglass but the white pad is better for removing adhesive stains and tar. It is also better for cleaning off old wax. The white pad can be used with a lot of solvents that destroy the gray pad. A little lacquer thinner will make short work of adhesive marks or road tar. Using the white pad with a muriatic acid solution will take up rust stains. Be careful though. Solvents that don't hurt fiberglass can damage paint, decals, and you. Take precautions. Also, after using solvents, flush with water and clean with the gray pad.

Start at the top with the hose running and start rubbing the pad in a circular motion under the water. The water turns white. Move when the water clears. When everything dries, it should be easy to tell if you missed anywhere. Use a pencil to lightly mark the areas you missed or need to clean better and go over the areas you missed. The pad will take off the pencil marks. All this is a little time consuming, but, it isn't very hard and you can do it out in the sun.

Polishing and waxing after all that chalky oxidation is off is now a piece of cake.

Polish (for cleaning and shining dull spots): Starbrite Marine Polish
Wax (for protecting): Meguiars Flagship Premium Marine Wax

NOTE:
If you have a pressure washer, DON'T USE IT AROUND THE DOOR, WINDOWS, VENTS OR ANYTHING WITH A GASKET. It will blow out all the silicone caulking. In other words, it isn't worth renting a washer or going to a car wash. Use a hose.

Good Luck.
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:48 AM   #5
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Looking for some help with removing oxidation build up on my 13' scamp and rust spots caused from the front hardware at window shield. All help would be much appreciated. In addition I would like to thank you all for the wonderful information posted here,it has helped tremendously.

DavidS
I just did this and had no success with the first try, I was very frustrated. But then I used On and Off Hull and Bottom cleaner, by "Marykate" I had never heard of the stuff before I just came across it at the marine store by my house..anyway Fantastic the rust and other stains literaly just dripped out and off! the Scamp turned out alsmost snow white. I dont have the bottle in front of me but it has that oxycilec? acid in it and should be used carefully I would recomend mask and gloves but WOW what a cleaner! I am in no way connected with this product just thought I would share and actually I have never seen it before at the big box marine outlets the place I got it was a little mom and pop marine trading post. I waited a day and buffed out the trailer with wax to seal it. Good luck! Just for fun I did google marykate hull and bottom cleaner and it does come up! One place had it for 10.99 so I gues it is availible. I have had fiberglass boats for over 20 years and this is my first fiberglass trailer I wish I would have found this stuff 20 years ago.
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:51 AM   #6
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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Yes, the MaryKate On & Off is strong stuff. It's a thin liquid acid, so you have to be pretty careful about where it runs off, and rinse to beat the band.

The FSR product is a bit less "dangerous" to work with as it is in gel form, and slightly milder. I would try it first.

Neither the MaryKate product nor the FSR will remove oxidation, but they are great on stains.

Raya
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:26 PM   #7
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When I purchased the first Casita we picked it up pretty late in the evening and with a long drive home ahead of us with a trailer I knew nothing about, we decided to stay at our old neighbors for the night and hit the road the next day. Anyway, our old neighbor is got more gadgets, tool's, lotions, potions than any 10 people. The 86 Casita was very oxidized. He grab some stuff ( New Finish, cheap walmart purchase) out of the garage and rubbed a small section. It took the oxidation right off. Try it, it's cheap enough. I am sure that some area's may take a little more elbow grease but I was amazed at what it did. I purchase 6 bottles but ended up selling the 86 a few short weeks later so passed it along to the kids that bought it.
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Old 09-04-2009, 01:22 PM   #8
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Oxalic acid is an excellent agent to remove rust stains. Oxalic_from_West_Marine . Description

George.



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Old 09-04-2009, 04:21 PM   #9
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Ospho works very well for removing rust stains from pretty much any painted/gelcoated surface. As it is also an acid use with caution!
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