Removing Scamp door hinges

[Bill Nolen]

i guess the correct title should be "Re-installing Scamp door hinges" because I can dismantle anything! Getting it together again has always been my problem!

I need to do some fiberglass repair in the door's top hinge area.

My question is: After I repair the door, is it best to install both sides of the hinges on the door, and then bolt to the shell? Or is it best to install one side of the hinge to the door, and one side to the shell...and then mate the hinges together?

I would greatly appreciate any advice that someone who has removed and replaced a door can offer me!

Bill

[Ian G.]

Hi Bill
Install both hinge leafs then assemble the ball I bolt assembly
If you are doing some fiberglass work may I make a suggestion?
If you relocate the Scamp hinges so the top hinge is 1/3 of the way down the door and the lower hinge is 2/3 of the way down ( I think the door measures 63" so locate the top hinge at 21" and the bottom hinge a 42"). This will allow the door to fully open against the belly band without hitting it.

[Ian G.]

You may also find this information helpful.
Boler / Scamp Door Hinges & Adjustments

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Ian G.

You may also find this information helpful.
Boler / Scamp Door Hinges & Adjustments

Thanks Ivan!

Very good information on that web site, which I will try and follow.

I haven't checked very closely, but it appears the door fiberglass has been damaged directly under the top hinge leaf. Also behind the shell top hinge leaf. Both areas are covered with rusted steel plates.

I'll know more tomorrow.

Thanks again,

Bill

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

Both areas are covered with rusted steel plates.

That's probably because "back in the day," Scamp never expected anyone would still be using (and enjoying) a 37 year old Scamp. Especially since it's such a sticky world...

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

That's probably because "back in the day," Scamp never expected anyone would still be using (and enjoying) a 37 year old Scamp. Especially since it's such a sticky world...

Ha! Donna you are so right! Not many products 37 year's old are still useable.

However, i'm really upset because one of the cast metal hinges is wore out! Heck, a hinge should be good for at least 50-years...shouldn't it?

I did remove the metal plate on the door, and found that the fiberglass is cracked in many places in that area. At this moment I'm considering whether to just coat the area with epoxy, or add fiberglass tape and epoxy.

I'm mostly concerned about getting epoxy into the mounting holes, and messing up the other (inside) side of the door where the screws go.

Any suggestions? We are supposed to be rain free for several days. Sure hope so cause the door is off!

Bill

[Donna D.]

Bill, although it does happen the metal hinges aren't known for wearing out. Is it the brass ball, spring and bolt that you need to replace?

[Ian G.]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

I did remove the metal plate on the door, and found that the fiberglass is cracked in many places in that area. At this moment I'm considering whether to just coat the area with epoxy, or add fiberglass tape and epoxy.

I'm mostly concerned about getting epoxy into the mounting holes, and messing up the other (inside) side of the door where the screws go.

Any suggestions? We are supposed to be rain free for several days. Sure hope so cause the door is off!

Bill

Cracking around the hinge mounting area is usually caused by over tightening the hinge pivot bolt. The spring must have spaces between each coil equal to at least the diameter of the spring wire. Over tightening the pivot bolt causes the hinge to bind and all the force and stress damages the fiberglass where it mounts.
The hinges work in an arch and need to move vertically as the door is opened and closed. As Donna said the brass ball and spring usually fail or wear out the aluminum hinge leafs will last forever ... usually

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Bill, although it does happen the metal hinges aren't known for wearing out. Is it the brass ball, spring and bolt that you need to replace?

Originally Posted by Ian G.

Cracking around the hinge mounting area is usually caused by over tightening the hinge pivot bolt. The spring must have spaces between each coil equal to at least the diameter of the spring wire. Over tightening the pivot bolt causes the hinge to bind and all the force and stress damages the fiberglass where it mounts.
The hinges work in an arch and need to move vertically as the door is opened and closed. As Donna said the brass ball and spring usually fail or wear out the aluminum hinge leafs will last forever ... usually

Donna and Ian, after reading your comments, I re-inspected the hinge leaf assemblies, and found that the "bowls" that the brass balls rest in were not in the bad condition that I had first thought. Just dirty.

When i removed the door I had found that the two hinge leaf bolts were frozen in place, and were hard to remove. Only one of the hinge leaf bowl's shows that the brass ball was turning.

The brass balls show very little wear. In fact, it might be possible for me to only replace the old bolt with a new SS boat and nut. Maybe?

Of course, new kits are only $6.00 each.

Bill

[Bill Nolen]

Here are several photos showing the top door hinge leaf area, as removed from the Scamp, and later after I cleaned the area a bit.

The gray stuff is butyl tape being used to stop leaks.

Metal plate still in place.



Metal plate removed. Nasty looking!



Most of crud cleaned from figerglass. Ugly cracks and enlarged bolt holes!



Top hinge leaf on shell. Looks like fiberglass is also cracked.



As you can see in the forth photo, the fiberglass appears to be cracked and will need repairs. The brass ball "bowl" on this hinge leaf is the one I was concerned was wore out. However, after a bit of cleaning, it appears useable.

Bill

[Johnny M]

Originally Posted by Ian G.

Hi Bill
Install both hinge leafs then assemble the ball I bolt assembly
If you are doing some fiberglass work may I make a suggestion?
If you relocate the Scamp hinges so the top hinge is 1/3 of the way down the door and the lower hinge is 2/3 of the way down ( I think the door measures 63" so locate the top hinge at 21" and the bottom hinge a 42"). This will allow the door to fully open against the belly band without hitting it.

Ian, after reading you posts on the hinges location and coming to the conclusion that my body is not bowed out beyond its factory condition AND after rebuilding the door back to its original curvature I reluctantly decided to relocate my hinges after being out of options to get my door to fully open. WOW what an improvement! I have to admit I didn't think lowering the top hinge was going to make such a significant difference but it did, my door fully opens now! Do note though, I only had to move the top hinge down, the lower hinge is in its original position. Thanks for the helpful post!