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Old 04-21-2012, 04:31 PM   #1
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repacking bearings first time! help needed!

Help! I'm sure I'll need it! I have a 2009 13 ft Scamp with hubs that allow me to give the wheel bearings a shot or two of grease every 5000 miles or so without removing the wheels (which one needs to do for a major repacking of the bearings). However, Scamp recommends a full repacking of the bearings every 10,000 miles, and I'm due for it. Last spring, I had the repack done at an RV repair centre (costly and time-consuming, but done correctly anyway). This year, since I've taken one wheel off (for an unrelated reason), I thought I should figure out how to repack the bearings myself. Back in the 1970s, I repacked wheel bearings on my old VW, so figured I could handle doing the Scamp. But I'm no mechanic and I don't want to make a mess of anything. So I've come begging for guidance!
The trailer is equipped with electric brakes. The hub/drum is identified as a "Dexter" "8-27" and "WF2 SE 14". Those numbers mean nothing to me, but they might be meaningful to someone who knows his or her way around a hub. On the reverse (inner side) of the hub/drum, there are 4 nuts spaced around the hub/drum and a place where two electrical wires go inside the hub/drum. I'm assuming I need to remove those 4 nuts to get to the bearings. But I'm a cautious man, and I thought I'd better ask for advice before I take that next step. Does anyone know whether I'm quickly getting in over my head, given technological changes in bearings since the 1970s and the fact that I have electric brakes? If I go ahead, is anyone willing to guide me through the next steps? I'd sure appreciate it. I always think it is useful to know some basics about whatever equipment I own, but I don't want to end up with a big mess on my hands AND camping season just beginning! Thanks in advance for any guidance. Richard
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Old 04-21-2012, 05:17 PM   #2
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You don't need to remove the brake backing plate to service the bearings. Remove the big nut in the center of the hub (under a cap). The whole drum will pull off. The outer bearing is free, the inner bearing is captured by the grease seal. Pry the grease seal out with a big screwdriver, then clean and repack the bearings. Replace the grease seal.

One of many on YouTube:

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Old 04-21-2012, 05:26 PM   #3
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Hello Richard. While it's not rocket science it needs to be done right. My suggestion is to take your trailer to a local shop where the mechanic will let you watch and ask questions. . Before you go, read the Dexter manual and any other instructions you can find so you know what is going on. Take notes. What grease did he use? What seal did he use? Ect. Next time you will do it yourself. Raz
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Old 04-21-2012, 05:45 PM   #4
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My advice is 4 U to do what P. Raz suggested above then:

B 4 you do anything, make sure you have a Jack Stand that will hold the camper up.
Jack the camper up, place the Jack Stand under the camper and then slowly let the jack down until the frame of the camper is resting on the jack stand, then slowly jack the jack back up until it slightly contacts the frame.

This is a SAFETY MUST to insure the camper does not fall and hurt you.
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:07 PM   #5
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Repacking the bearings. Jack up trailer one side at a time put a jack stand under the frame. Remove the dust cap. Remove the cotter pin and nut. The drum pulls off the axle the outer bearing cone comes out. Use a big screwdriver to remove the seal then you can get the bigger inner bearing come out. Clean the bearings with paint thinner or BrakeKleen. Inspect the rollers to make sure they don't have any scratches. If ok after washed repacing time will start. I wear rubber gloves the medical type. I also use red grease extreme pressure. Place some grease in the palm of your hand. Drag the bearing in your palm putting pressure on keep adding grease until the grease comes out the other side of the bearing. When packed put the big one in the drum first grease the race which is in the drum relace the seal. Then side the drum on the axle and install the outer bearing, nut, cotter pin then install the grease cap. You may need to readjust the brakes. remove the rubber plug a the bottom of the backing plate. Use a brake spoon or a screwdriver. With the screwdriver tighten the adjuster until you can't turn the drum then back of 2 times until it turns freely.
Chuck
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:57 PM   #6
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Richard,,,read the similar threads at the bottom of this thread. as Chuck suggests, tighten the nut to where it is tight and the cotter pin will go into the hole, back off the nut one notch and put the cotter pin in place. Bend the pin up and not to the side, it is easier to hold the head of the pin in place and bend one leg of the pin up at a time,you can tap the bottom of the bend with a small hammer, holding the head in place.

Later Kenny
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:16 AM   #7
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Thanks for all these great responses! As Arnie says, "I'll be back" after I've had a chance to look carefully at my hub in relation to these various instructions. The YouTube video is great too, although since I have the grease nipple on mine, I'm not 100% sure I can get started quite the way he does. But I'll be back for more help, no doubt! Thanks very much to all!
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:26 AM   #8
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wheel bearings

I take mine to a tire shop. Reasonably priced and I stand and watch what they do, not so much as to make certain they do the right thing, but, to learn what they do. Seems to me it cost me about $15/wheel. I can see that the bearing if dripping with grease. Good insurance. I've seen too many trailers of all kinds along roads with one wheel off. Just a suggestion. Marg
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:45 AM   #9
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.......... The YouTube video is great too, although since I have the grease nipple on mine, I'm not 100% sure I can get started quite the way he does........
I think the only difference with yours is that you have a rubber plug in the end of the steel hub cover that gives access to the grease fitting in the end of the spindle. After you clean and re-grease the bearings and install a new grease seal, you can give the bearings an extra shot of grease through the grease fitting. It is best not to mix greases, so force the old grease out of the spindle with new grease, using a grease gun, before you reinstall the hub and bearings.

It might be a temptation to just pump in new grease rather than repacking, but you will find the old grease has fine dirt and water contamination that can't be removed simply by pumping in new grease.
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:55 PM   #10
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Well, I guess I'm in over my head! When I take off the rubber dust cover, the grease nipple is in the centre. There is no cotter pin involved with removing the nut, and it looks like even removing the nut requires a special tool: rather than being 8-sided or 6-sided, the nut is round with only ONE flat edge -- running from about 8 o'clock to 11 o'clock. So there's nothing to grip with any sort of conventional wrench. I'm afraid that if the INITIAL removal stage is this complex, I'm not likely to have a lot of fun once I get inside! Guess I'd better get to a professional for greasing before too long! Rats! And that old VW just ran and ran and .... Thanks for all the help.
The only documentation related to the axles, brakes, hubs, and drums that Scamp supplied is an "AL-KO" Owner's manual. There is no mention of Dexter in any of the documentation unfortunately.
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Old 04-22-2012, 03:27 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Richard Davis View Post
Well, I guess I'm in over my head! When I take off the rubber dust cover, the grease nipple is in the centre. There is no cotter pin involved with removing the nut, and it looks like even removing the nut requires a special tool: rather than being 8-sided or 6-sided, the nut is round with only ONE flat edge -- running from about 8 o'clock to 11 o'clock. So there's nothing to grip with any sort of conventional wrench. I'm afraid that if the INITIAL removal stage is this complex, I'm not likely to have a lot of fun once I get inside! Guess I'd better get to a professional for greasing before too long! Rats! And that old VW just ran and ran and .... Thanks for all the help.
The only documentation related to the axles, brakes, hubs, and drums that Scamp supplied is an "AL-KO" Owner's manual. There is no mention of Dexter in any of the documentation unfortunately.
You are looking at the end of the spindle through the rubber plug. You need to remove the metal cap (like in the YouTube video). You will then see the nut with cotter pin or retainer cap. From there, the process is the same. See illustration above and video below in this link.

EZ Lube Spindle 1.75" RD x 3" STUB Redline Trailer Spindles R20384EZ
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Old 04-22-2012, 04:04 PM   #12
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Do yourself a favor and watch the mechanic when he does the work. Maybe you could have him do one side then you take it home and do the other.
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Old 04-22-2012, 06:14 PM   #13
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Do yourself a favor and watch the mechanic when he does the work. Maybe you could have him do one side then you take it home and do the other.
Ask him first.

I've been known to grab a chair and stare back at customers that decide to watch without asking.
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Old 04-22-2012, 06:36 PM   #14
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Keep in mind the sign often seen in a mechanics shop:

$75 per hour shop rate
$100 if you watch
$150 if you help
$250 if you worked on it before you brought it here
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:19 PM   #15
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Keep in mind the sign often seen in a mechanics shop:

$75 per hour shop rate
$100 if you watch
$150 if you help
$250 if you worked on it before you brought it here

I would love to have one of those signs.

Perhaps it would discourage the use of butt connectors and duct tape?
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:41 PM   #16
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If you are a trailer owner it is very good to learn how to replace a bearing in case you have no option but to do it on the road. It may be hours or days before road service or a mechanic is available. If you can repack a bearing then you can replace it. Of course you need to have the tools to do it. I sometimes do my own and sometimes have a tire shop do it if their price is reasonable.

You will have to purchase a new grease seal for each hub because when you pry the old ones out to get at the inner bearing it will bend the seal which is made out or relatively thin sheet metal with a rubber or plastic part that seals against the spindle. They come in many different sizes so you will have to find the part number which may be etched on one or just pry one out and take it to the auto parts store and they can match it. While you are at it take get at least one set of replacement bearings to have with you in case of a bearing failure. They are relatively inexpensive. I always try to keep a few extra seals and bearings that fit my trailer in my tool box. When replacing the seal just tap it in gently around the edges keeping it even as it seats. Stop it is flush with the hub.

It is very important not to get grease on the brake shoes. It will ruin them. If you get some on the inside of the metal brake drum wipe it out very thoroughly with a clean rag or paper towel. I usually use an entire roll of paper towels when packing bearings because it is a messy job.

It is very important not to get dirt, especially sand, in the bearing grease and that is very easy to do. If you drop a freshly greased bearing on the ground or is sand blows on it reclean it.

The large nut with the notches for a cotter pin is called a castle nut because it looks like a miniature castle tower. When you put the hub back on tighten this nut until it is snug THEN BACK OFF (LOOSEN IT) ONE OR TWO NOTCHES BEFORE INSERTING THE COTTER PIN. If you leave it too tight it puts a tremendous amount of pressure on the bearing assembly and the bearings will soon fail.

When you are on the road and make a stop after driving always feel the trailer wheels near or on the hub to make sure they are not hot. They will be warm but should not be so hot you can't keep your hand on them. After you check it a few times you will know what is normal warmth and what is not normal. If you find one getting hot either the bearing is failing or a brake is stuck. Also if a tire is under inflated it will get warmer than normal. You generally use the brakes to get slowed down to exit the highway and the drums may be hot. That is normal. Do not stick your fingers through the air holes in the wheel and touch the drum because it may be very hot.

It is a similar topic but sometimes brake shoes wear away and need to be adjusted out so they will contact the drum when applied. Many of them have an automatic slack adjuster to adjust them but it may not be working. I will leave it to another thread about how to do that but a good time to check the brake adjustment is after you repack the bearings and replace the wheel. When the wheel is in the air you should be able to turn it freely. You adjust the brakes out until they contact the drum then back off just enough so the wheel can turn freely. That brake is then correctly adjusted. This is real common in tractor trailer trucks and that is why you see brake check areas for trucks in the mountains. Going down over one mountain applying truck brakes heavily can wear enough of the shoes off that the brakes do not work or loose part of their strength.

Cheers

Bruce
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:26 AM   #17
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find your local mechanic, explain you want to learn to do it right. pay him to teach you how . problem forever solved.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:30 PM   #18
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Thanks for much great advice, most of which I'll ignore (at my peril!). I'm a retired teacher convinced that anyone can learn, given the motivation. I wish taking the Scamp to a reliable mechanic for "teaching" were an easy option, but it isn't. So Tom, thank you for the further advice and video. Yes, the cap (with the rubber dust cap) does pry off as you anticipated. Thank you. BUT.... there is not a cotter pin and there is not what the video shows as a tang washer to be removed so that the castle nut can be turned. Instead, there is a rather insubstantial-looking "washer" that is shaped like a spider with 8 legs, in 4 sets of 2. The main part of the washer sits on top of what must be the castle nut (although the nut -- not yet fully exposed -- isn't quite as regularly "towered: as other castle nuts I've seen in videos). But the 8 legs reach down over the nut and toward the middle of the trailer. The top of this washer has a cut out that fits over the "spindle" (if I have the correct term), with one side flat to accommodate the flat side of the spindle as I described previously. There is a small piece of the washer at the flat side that disappears, and this MIGHT be something that needs to be pried out (as in the video) or it might NOT! I've never seen a washer like this before, and none of the expanded schematics of the AL-KO documentation shows such a washer (As I said, the hub/drum is a Dexter, not a AL-KO. Any more help for an eager student?
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:41 PM   #19
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More than likely, one of the tangs is bent over a flat spot on the NUT to keep it from moving. Pry it out then turn the nut. Do not use the same tang to flatten against the nut as it is week, use one of the other tangs. This is MOST important as it KEEPS your wheel on the camper. Dune wrong and the nut can come unscrewed and things go wrong in a hurry.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:46 PM   #20
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...... Any more help for an eager student?
Unfortunately, I've not seen a capture device like that, but if you unbend it carefully until you can turn the nut, you should be able to reverse the process when you button it up, or replace it.

Do you see the nut keeper on this page?
Axle Spindle Nuts, Washers & Cotter Pins at Trailer Parts Superstore
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