Replacement window cost - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-04-2005, 11:46 AM   #1
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Name: Rob
Trailer: 1980 Bolar 1700
Massachusetts
Posts: 92
Hey all,
I am growing tired of chasing window leaks and worn parts on my Boler 1700 windows. As some of you know I am completely renovating my Boler which started from a soft spot in the floor which lead to the entire floor being wet and rotting. So far I have had the frame off and replaced the running gear and raised the frame 4". Cleaned and repainted the frame and remounted it under the body. The new plywood floor is in, bolted and fiberglassed in and all of the replacement insulation is installed and ready for paint. Despite all of the work completed so far the windows continue to dribble and leak in places they shouldn't. I know many of you have replaced your windows with new ones and many have had your old ones professionally repaired. So let's talk details.

If you replaced your windows, what brand and model did you go with, fixed or operable, what did they cost, and where did you get them? Are you happy with them?

If you had them repaired, what was needed, who did it and what did it cost? Are you happy with the results is it lasting?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-04-2005, 02:46 PM   #2
Con
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Name: Con
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300/2003 17' Bigfoot
British Columbia
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Check out my pictures at http://community.webshots.com/user/con111
I got my windows from a company called Sunbelt Industries in Summerland, B.C. for a cost of approx $ 585 Can. They produce about 40,000 windows a year. There are several other companies mentioned on this forum that are in the States that I am sure could help you.The new windows are great and don't leak. They are lighter and thiner than the original
louvered windows. My original windows were not leaking yet but it was just a matter of time before they did. Also it is almost impossable to find and replace the weather stripping that was used on those.
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Old 12-04-2005, 03:55 PM   #3
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Trailer: 1976 13 ft Boler and 1980 Trillium 5500
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Con - your door repair is incredible. You may want to post that under its own thread as I'm sure others will be impressed - what a job! Alec
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Old 12-04-2005, 04:17 PM   #4
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Name: Ches
Trailer: 1992 Kustom Koach 17 FT
British Columbia
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I have repaired lots of Boler windows.I got all new cranks at RV Part stores.As for window leaks,I just took them out and used butal tape and leaks were gone.
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Old 12-04-2005, 04:20 PM   #5
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Trailer: 1992 Kustom Koach 17 FT
British Columbia
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Got this from Boler Form.

http://www.geocities.com/bolerama/windowcrank.html
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Old 12-04-2005, 05:08 PM   #6
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Name: Con
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300/2003 17' Bigfoot
British Columbia
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Hi Al, I had a look at you pics awhile ago. The gelcoat on yours looks to be in excellant shape. Yours is the only one I have seen so far in that color. The second owner before us had some on break into the trailer and snaped the door just at the bottonm of the window. Whom ever fixed it didn't do a very good job. They glassed it on the inside skin and then popriveted an alum. angle on each side of the door. When I cut the skins apart the door fell in a couple of pieces.
There are still lots of Bolers around but only about 1 in 15 is any decent condition. All of them the doors are a poor fit. I read a numer of fixes on this forum, none of which I think really adressed the problem that well. Been a designer /draftsman for the last 50 years I decided I was going to do it right. The acutual time it took to do it wasn't all that much and it turned out to be easier then I anticipated. It is on solid door now. Aith the new windows, rebulit door and all the leaky rivets rplace with bolts it is water tight. We came through a very heavy rain storm on the way home in Aug. When we stopped and I checked inside there was not one drop of water. So my work paid off.
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Old 12-05-2005, 07:26 PM   #7
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Trailer: 77 Scamp 13 ft
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Love that door repair Con

Your giving me some great ideas..... I could use some more practice welding aluminum anyways. I may even try some of that stuff in the sticks its kindof a cross between saldering and brazeing and all you need is a propane torch. Has anyone here tried that stuff? I used it once and it realy does work but i may have just been lucky Anyways just admiering your work.
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Old 12-06-2005, 02:11 PM   #8
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Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300/2003 17' Bigfoot
British Columbia
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Hi Ronny,

Check out my latest pics at http://community.webshots.com/user/con111
Posted some more last night.
If you are talking about stick welding alum. DON'T do it. I built 2 snowmobile decks for pickup trucks figuring that they would be strong enough. Not the case most of the welds had to be ground out and redone with a Mig wire feed. You just can not get enough proper penetration with stick. Wire feed is the only way to go, or Tig. I had a shop weld up my frame because I had turned in my rental Argon tank a few months before I did the door frame. Wasn't worth keeping it for the small amount of alum. welding I was doing.
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