Replacing or Repairing Windows on 1985 U-Haul - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-02-2009, 03:01 PM   #1
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Trailer: 85 U-Haul
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The Wylde-Dean crew is totally new to the RV world and find ourselves the proud owners of a l985 U-Haul. Overall it is in pretty good shape. One project at a time: are the window units replacable with anything currently produced or do I need to beat the bushes for old parts? Basically the rear and "kitchen side" "emergency window have been sealed shut with layers of caulk. I would love to find find window units with screens that could be put in. Ideas?

Britt and Sally
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Old 11-02-2009, 03:12 PM   #2
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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We just had a fairly involved thread on this a couple of weeks ago. Maybe you could turn it up in a search. It listed several options and potential options.

Raya
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:12 AM   #3
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I feel your pain.
I haven't got mine totally fixed yet.
I had a leak in between the metal window frames and the outer rubber gasket.
I used black silicone on that and you can't even tell it. That part is now fixed.
the only leak left is the window channels, they are rusted and deteriorated.
I ordered the rubber channels today, I'll let you know how that goes.

Check out this thread.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...49&hl=leaky

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Old 11-03-2009, 12:28 PM   #4
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Trailer: 1986 Bigfoot FT20
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Gary, I little secret in replacing the window trim. Only replace what needs it. Most of the top parts are good.
The trim you ordered is not easy to install. You may need to install the bottom part in two pieces. The channel doesn't want to slide in very well under the window glass. Remove the bottom piece half way up the sides.
Slide window closed and cut the bottom piece longer than the empty slot. Slide extra part in first under window. Now slide window back and install the front half up the side.
This trim will stop the leaks but, your windows will open much harder. Leaving the top part in should allow your windows to slide easier. I found this out the hard way. The top channel doesn't leak but you may still need to replace due to rot. Do the tops same way. Make sure you clean the channels well because the extra dirt will make the windows tighter and the trim slide in harder.
Good luck you will be happy with the results.
Mike
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Old 11-04-2009, 06:08 AM   #5
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mszabo
Thanks for the tips.
That makes perfect sense.
I hope this will be the final fix, I'm tired of messing with the windows.
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Old 11-04-2009, 06:33 AM   #6
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Hang in there, Gary. The fun of the trailer makes the pain worth it.

BTW, all UHaul owners. There has been some discussion of a UHaul get-together next year over on uhaulcamper.com. The location discussed has been New England.

CindyL
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:03 PM   #7
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The first thing I learned when I got mu Uhaul is that the window troughs will fill up during a heavy rain and overflow into the dry side.

Unless--- you cut out holes in the fuzzy thing so that the water will drain out through the drain holes.


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If you are installing the track, then it is no problem to cut the holes before installation. Otherwise, it can be done with everything in place.

An Xacto kit and a small ice pick will be a great help.

First you make cuts in the liner as shown in the pictures. Then extract the cut off piece with the ice pick. Not all that difficult.



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Sorry, the pictures are not in order. (:
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:06 AM   #8
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Trailer: U-Haul CT13 ('Pearl')
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Ah, windows.

I am working on mine also. However, I'm on a really tight budget. I pulled the tracks from my side windows only on the bottom. The cotton material was goo and the metal spline rusted. Yuck!

LEVEL THE TRAILER!

1) Remove old track and clean the gutters. Just remove the bottom track. The best tool for the drain holes is an old pick from the dentist. They might just give you one as they do wear out. The little hook is great for pulling out the stuff that gets into the track.

2) Add a small dab of caulk on the screen rivets. The T area may be in accessible. Or take off the screens and rivet them back on with caulk. I chose not to mess with the screens, rivets only.

3) I am using a stick on fuzzy velcro as a temporary track. I do not put it by the drain holes. This is temporary until I get enough to replace the windows...which really means it will be there in 20 years.

4) While the trailer is outside in the rain, I added a wick to the drain holes to speed up drainage. It is just a 1" by 8" piece of nylon pantyhose. Water wicks along the nylon via surface tension. Any fine grain nylon should work like a piece of twine. After you put it in, test it by pouring water into the gutter. The water should wick away quickly. Simple, but it works.

I'm having a lot of fun with my trailer. Menard's has that silver bubble insulation on sale and I am slowly putting it in. Almost done with the table mod too! I will attempt pictures if needed.


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Old 11-11-2009, 04:13 PM   #9
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Just following up on my window leaks.

I put the new window channels in last weekend.
We had 2 solid days of rain and NO LEAKS
It was a fairly difficult task and not a fun one.

It takes 2 pieces for all 4 windows with plenty to spare.

Thanks for all of the tips on this job.
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
I put the new window channels in last weekend. We had 2 solid days of rain and NO LEAKS
It was a fairly difficult task and not a fun one...
Hi Gary,

Glad to hear your windows no longer leak! Do you have any additional tips on installing the window channel? I'm getting up the courage to install ours...

Jeanne
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