Replacing propane tank - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-27-2007, 06:00 AM   #1
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I have the old style propane tank on a 13' Scamp.. What would I need to convert to the new style tank?
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Old 09-27-2007, 06:13 AM   #2
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Just replace the tank with a new one. It's cheaper to buy a new tank that to replace the valve, etc. The fittings on the trailer are the same and don't need to be replaced... unless worn out.
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Old 09-27-2007, 06:31 AM   #3
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Don't I need a new pigtail? http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/..._p/vts-371.htm Do I need a new Tank Regulator http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/..._p/vts-383.htm
This site is the BEST for information on trailers.
Thanks Kevin
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Old 09-27-2007, 06:57 AM   #4
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Nope, nothing else. What changed was the stuff INSIDE the tank... the OPD valve. Wow, this change took effect April 1, 2002. Haven't filled the tank in a while?? Maybe you want to replace the regulator, etc. because it's old and worn out...
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:38 AM   #5
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So the only reason you would need a new pig tail is because you don't need a wrench to hook it up to the tank ?
Old style you need a wrench and the tank is out dated. Correct?
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:43 AM   #6
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I have a new tank and use the old pigtail. Using a wrench every year or so is not a problem. From Vintage Trailer:
Quote:
If you're still living with old-fashioned pigtails or copper lines, this is an easy and inexpensive upgrade to make your trailer safer and easier to use.
Easier (?) but, not because it's necessary.
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Old 09-27-2007, 10:30 AM   #7
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Old tank valves were inside thread for outside thread pigtails.

All new tanks have the outside thread to fit new style pigtails. Most, if not all new tank valves also have the inside threads for old pigtails.

Check your pigtail. If the rubber hose has hardened and cracked, replace it when you replace the tank. If the pigtail is OK, use it. Remember, if your pigtail is the type with a rubber O ring, replace that as well. These O-rings get complessed in use, and do not always seal time after time. I replace mine (2 on the trailer, one on the BBQ) every year as a PM measure. Cheap isurance, they are a buck or two for five O-rings.

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Old 09-27-2007, 10:58 AM   #8
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Everyone else has covered the what-you-can-do and why, but just to make things a bit more clear...

The old-style connection, with the threads on the outside of the hose fitting, inside the tank fitting, and left-hand threaded is called "POL". None have been made in the common 20-lb "barbecue" size for a long time, but other sizes of new tanks still use only this fitting, and many trailers (like mine) use it as well.

The newer - and now standard - connection style is QCC (Quick Connect something). The actual seal is the same, but it's held together by a much coarser thread on the inside of the hose fitting, outside of the tank fitting, and right-hand threaded. As Vic explained, QCC-equipped tanks usually fit POL hoses as well (that's the setup on my Boler).

Flow limiting features to limit the effect of ruptured hoses, a safety valve which only allows flow when the connection is fully seated, and the Overfill Protection Device (OPD) with its float to help prevent overfilling, are all extra safety features which are currently used. All U.S. portable tanks should have at least the OPD to meet national standards, but in Canada the level of equipment varies quite a bit, since the OPD is not required.

When I bought new tanks recently, I found that - as Donna suggested - a brand new OPD-equipped tank from Costco was cheaper than a recertification of an old tank. It was also cheaper than any size or type of tank from any other source. They were $25 each.
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Old 09-27-2007, 11:07 AM   #9
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Wow, this change took effect April 1, 2002. Haven't filled the tank in a while??
Propane tanks are routinely filled by people who are among the lowest-paid and least-trained you'll deal with in a typical day. I've never seen one check a certification date or a tare weight, and I've seen them happily fill long-expired tanks. Others have also reported fill procedures that are clearly incorrect and even illegal. I'm not at all surprised if Kevin has been able to get non-OPD tanks filled... wherever he is.

Ironically, if proper filling procedures are followed, there is no purpose for the OPD, so the most conscientious station attendants (the most likely to reject a non-OPD tank) are also the ones who could quite safely operate without the OPD; conversely, the OPD was made specifically to protect you from the kid who doesn't bother to check for the OPD...
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Old 09-27-2007, 01:14 PM   #10
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A good way to get a new style tank is to take your old tank to a store that sells pre-filled canisters. Up here they charge $16 or so for a fully filled, new style, though typically used tank.

Leave your old style tank behind and buy a pre-filled tank at the store. They will retrofit your old style tank and add it their stock and you will have a fully filled tank that you can keep or return for a swap when empty. Lots of folks throw their old style tanks away, I have swapped two or three that I dug out of the trash and replaced all my old style tanks using this method. In California they are required to accept the old stlye tanks as swaps, I expect other states require the same.
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Old 09-27-2007, 03:49 PM   #11
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I think the tank-swap system is an expensive convenience. If your current tank is in good condition and meets current standards, the tank you get will be no better than the old one... and may even be older. If your current tank doesn't meet current standards, you will likely get no or only partial credit for it in the trade (depending on exchange system).

The cost of a trade here is currently about $19, while a refill at a bulk station is about $12 (less at Costco). Four fills and you've paid enough extra to buy a whole new (empty) tank. On top of that, since OPDs are not required here the exchange tanks generally don't have them. If you trade in your OPD-equipped empty tank here, you'll be giving away the OPD.

If the exchange programs in your area have tanks of the same specification as you use, and the convenience of picking them up at a wide variety of locations (e.g. Home Depot) is important, then I can see swapping. I suppose taking a tank which is just about to expire to them is one way to avoid the new tank purchase... you could then get the tank you got in the exchange refilled at a bulk station later.
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Old 09-27-2007, 05:26 PM   #12
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My new BBQ propane tank has the treads on the outside of the fitting on the tank. My Scamp trailer tank has the treads on the inside of the fitting on the tank. SO I need a new pig tail and A NEW tank as far as I can tell. I may as well get a new regulator as long as I'am at it. They will NOT fill the old style 20 lb tanks here. MUST HAVE THE NEW STYLE TANK FITTING.
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Old 09-27-2007, 05:47 PM   #13
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As Thane said, take it to Home Depot or Lowes and just exchange it for about $16.00 and your good to go. These tanks are checked pretty good as the companies do not want lawsuits. I think the last time I saw tanks for sale at Sam's they were close to $40.00 empty
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:33 PM   #14
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My new BBQ propane tank has the treads on the outside of the fitting on the tank. My Scamp trailer tank has the treads on the inside of the fitting on the tank. SO I need a new pig tail and A NEW tank as far as I can tell. I may as well get a new regulator as long as I'am at it. They will NOT fill the old style 20 lb tanks here. MUST HAVE THE NEW STYLE TANK FITTING.
Well, guess you were able to answer your own question. I have about 5-6 tanks sitting around... all new style, seems like everytime I buy a new barbeque it comes with one, and then someone gave me a couple, etc. If you're like me and don't even cook that much inside, I'd just take the dang tank off the barbeque the time I might need it on the trailer.... your mileage may vary.
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