Replacing Surburban Stove Top - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-07-2015, 11:30 AM   #15
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My Scamp is a 2005 and the new stove top is the current one the Scamp site is selling...It is different...!
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Old 03-07-2015, 12:06 PM   #16
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Looks like mine is screwed onto 2 bolts coming from the other side of the metal tray. Seems like I'll need to drill out 4 rivets that connect it to the counter ??
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Old 03-07-2015, 03:06 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Changing or modifying a propane line involves fittings and a flaring tool. If you don't have this tool or know how to use it you are better off to have a shop do this job. Do not use compression fittings.
I agree with most of what you say, but could you explain that last sentence?

I use a single flaring tool. The tool is cheap enough, fresh tubing is flexible enough, and the results are of professional quality. (IMHO)

However, I have seen OEM installations using rubber hose and clamps.

SMEV actually recommends compression fittings.
Compression fittings are commonly good to pressures which are order(s) of magnitude greater than a stove gas line and the ferrule is seated better than a single flare... So what's the issue?
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Old 03-07-2015, 05:03 PM   #18
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Gas training that I went to said to never use compression fittings. Not sure if it is a code issue or not. It's been a long time, 26 years or so, my memory may not recall everything from then but I do know for sure we never used compression fittings on any gas installation. If someone else wants to use them, have at it. My training was from Homgas in MA. By the way Floyd, we met a lady from your area in SC that owns a Scamp 13 that she pulls with a CRV. Can't remember her name but she spoke quite highly about you. A statement that is obviously true. I have seen people that aren't familiar with a flaring tool split the flare, thus my opinion that some things that are simple still require a little in person training rather than reading online opinions. There are times when paying an experienced professional are well worth the money. Another thing, we always checked for leaks with a manometer, plus the soapy solution. A propane leak can be a big liability, I'm happy to no longer work on it.
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Old 03-07-2015, 06:29 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Gas training that I went to said to never use compression fittings. Not sure if it is a code issue or not. It's been a long time, 26 years or so, my memory may not recall everything from then but I do know for sure we never used compression fittings on any gas installation. If someone else wants to use them, have at it. My training was from Homgas in MA. By the way Floyd, we met a lady from your area in SC that owns a Scamp 13 that she pulls with a CRV. Can't remember her name but she spoke quite highly about you. A statement that is obviously true. I have seen people that aren't familiar with a flaring tool split the flare, thus my opinion that some things that are simple still require a little in person training rather than reading online opinions. There are times when paying an experienced professional are well worth the money. Another thing, we always checked for leaks with a manometer, plus the soapy solution. A propane leak can be a big liability, I'm happy to no longer work on it.
Thank you for the kind words!
I agree that it takes a little practice to master a single flaring tool. Same can be said for a double flaring tool. I too have heard that compression fittings are contraindicated but I just thought there might be some solid reason.

I can't tell you how many times I have found brass or SS compression fittings on brake lines (certainly another no-no),but I have never seen a failed one or heard a solid reason.
Still... brake lines with double flared ends and brake line couplings are cheap, maybe even cheaper than compression fittings.
All my life I have sought to know "how", but "why" has always been right alongside competing for my attention!

My only thought would be that the ferrule could cut or crack the line if over tightened. I have seen a couple of them fail in steam applications. Of course a flare can crack too.
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Old 03-07-2015, 07:40 PM   #20
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LOL, the "why" can be an elusive item. I know there is a reason for not using the compression fittings for propane, just can't remember what it is. Maybe like you say about over compressing the line. The flaring tool that was issued to me when I did fuel oil and propane was somewhat different than my Snapon double flaring tool. It made a larger single flare and did not do the double flare. We always used a heavier flare nut for propane, referred to as a "frost nut". I guess sometimes I don't ask why, just do as instructed, if the instructions make sense that is.
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Old 03-25-2015, 06:41 PM   #21
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Hi again all,
The RV place gave me a quote of $42.00 to change out the stoves (that's not including the cost of the replacement, which I had already purchased it) so I gave them the job….Looks wonderful and I now have 2 burners again!
In the meantime I kept myself busy reupholstering the front bunk bottom cushion. And am now working on building a narrow set of shelves for that right side front, between the screen divider and the front wall.
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