Replacing Surburban Stove Top

[fiddlesticksfl]

Just got a call from my local RV repair shop who after looking at my 2 burner Surburban stove top has given me a quote of over $200 dollars to "fix" my sticking gas valve on one of the burners. (They said due to US regulations the whole arm would have to be replace, not the small part that is the valve)
So, looking around I see I can purchase a brand new replacement from Scamp for $130. BUT….having never worked with propane appliances I'm wondering how difficult it would be to replace it myself.
Has anyone out there replaced their stove top, how difficult is it and do you have any hints to help?

[floyd]

Originally Posted by fiddlesticksfl

Just got a call from my local RV repair shop who after looking at my 2 burner Surburban stove top has given me a quote of over $200 dollars to "fix" my sticking gas valve on one of the burners. (They said due to US regulations the whole arm would have to be replace, not the small part that is the valve)<_<
So, looking around I see I can purchase a brand new replacement from Scamp for $130. BUT….having never worked with propane appliances I'm wondering how difficult it would be to replace it myself.
Has anyone out there replaced their stove top, how difficult is it and do you have any hints to help?

It is about a 2 on the DIY scale of 1-10 (1 being the easiest).
Shut off the propane and disconnect the line at the tank.
Remove the two screws which hold the top on the stove.
Remove the top.
Remove the screws holding the stove to the counter.
Disconnect the propane line .
Lift out the stove.
Reverse procedure to install new stove.

After installation "snoop" for leaks at the line connection and at the valves.
You can use a solution of 1 part dishwashing liquid to +- 20 parts water.
If you are not confident, ask a local handyman to do this, The job is way too easy to cost much for labor.

[fiddlesticksfl]

I was hoping it would be that easy. Thanks so much for your input!😃


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[MRClaus]

i think you can i think you can i know you can

[fiddlesticksfl]

I can

[mary and bob]

Years ago when I did propane and fuel oil service we had small tubes of a special grease for gas valves. Many times I pulled apart a stove valve, cleaned and greased it.

[tractors1]

If you know how a crescent wrench works you can easily replace the stovetop. The gas line fittings (and the existing line) are already flared. Swab some dish detergent over the fittings with the gas on and watch for bubbles when you are done to check for leaks.

[kootenaigirl]

What happens though when you are replacing an older stove with a newer one? I know on the older trailers the propane connections look like they are in the wrong place for the new stove. That has always deterred me from changing them out.
What year is your Scamp?

[Donna D.]

Dang. Over the years the foot print of the stove top has changed. Not so much about how it works. As long as you can replace something similar and the propane connections are on the correct side, you'll be golden.

Spray the connections with a combo of water and soap. If you see bubbles.. check it out! Be safe, okay?

[floyd]

Originally Posted by kootenaigirl

What happens though when you are replacing an older stove with a newer one? I know on the older trailers the propane connections look like they are in the wrong place for the new stove. That has always deterred me from changing them out.
What year is your Scamp?

You can remove the gas line back to the next fitting and make a new section of line to replace it. It is important to note that fresh copper tubing is more flexible than old tubing. Also note that Gas line coiled copper tubing is a different grade than water line coiled copper tubing. It is important to use the former.

[fiddlesticksfl]

Okay....Changing out lines?....That's a bit intimidating, but I'll give it a go... Worse that can happen is it'll all end up in the shop.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by fiddlesticksfl

Okay....Changing out lines?....That's a bit intimidating, but I'll give it a go... Worse that can happen is it'll all end up in the shop.

That's really not likely. if your new stove is the same model, it will be a direct replacement.

[mary and bob]

Changing or modifying a propane line involves fittings and a flaring tool. If you don't have this tool or know how to use it you are better off to have a shop do this job. Do not use compression fittings.

[Timber Wolf]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

Changing or modifying a propane line involves fittings and a flaring tool. If you don't have this tool or know how to use it you are better off to have a shop do this job. Do not use compression fittings.

What about a premade flexible stainless line? I have never used such myself but it might be worth look.

[fiddlesticksfl]

My Scamp is a 2005 and the new stove top is the current one the Scamp site is selling...It is different...!

[Pineapple Man]

Looks like mine is screwed onto 2 bolts coming from the other side of the metal tray. Seems like I'll need to drill out 4 rivets that connect it to the counter ??

[floyd]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

Changing or modifying a propane line involves fittings and a flaring tool. If you don't have this tool or know how to use it you are better off to have a shop do this job. Do not use compression fittings.

I agree with most of what you say, but could you explain that last sentence?

I use a single flaring tool. The tool is cheap enough, fresh tubing is flexible enough, and the results are of professional quality. (IMHO)

However, I have seen OEM installations using rubber hose and clamps.

SMEV actually recommends compression fittings.
Compression fittings are commonly good to pressures which are order(s) of magnitude greater than a stove gas line and the ferrule is seated better than a single flare... So what's the issue?

[mary and bob]

Gas training that I went to said to never use compression fittings. Not sure if it is a code issue or not. It's been a long time, 26 years or so, my memory may not recall everything from then but I do know for sure we never used compression fittings on any gas installation. If someone else wants to use them, have at it. My training was from Homgas in MA. By the way Floyd, we met a lady from your area in SC that owns a Scamp 13 that she pulls with a CRV. Can't remember her name but she spoke quite highly about you. A statement that is obviously true. I have seen people that aren't familiar with a flaring tool split the flare, thus my opinion that some things that are simple still require a little in person training rather than reading online opinions. There are times when paying an experienced professional are well worth the money. Another thing, we always checked for leaks with a manometer, plus the soapy solution. A propane leak can be a big liability, I'm happy to no longer work on it.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

Gas training that I went to said to never use compression fittings. Not sure if it is a code issue or not. It's been a long time, 26 years or so, my memory may not recall everything from then but I do know for sure we never used compression fittings on any gas installation. If someone else wants to use them, have at it. My training was from Homgas in MA. By the way Floyd, we met a lady from your area in SC that owns a Scamp 13 that she pulls with a CRV. Can't remember her name but she spoke quite highly about you. A statement that is obviously true. I have seen people that aren't familiar with a flaring tool split the flare, thus my opinion that some things that are simple still require a little in person training rather than reading online opinions. There are times when paying an experienced professional are well worth the money. Another thing, we always checked for leaks with a manometer, plus the soapy solution. A propane leak can be a big liability, I'm happy to no longer work on it.

Thank you for the kind words!
I agree that it takes a little practice to master a single flaring tool. Same can be said for a double flaring tool. I too have heard that compression fittings are contraindicated but I just thought there might be some solid reason.

I can't tell you how many times I have found brass or SS compression fittings on brake lines (certainly another no-no),but I have never seen a failed one or heard a solid reason.
Still... brake lines with double flared ends and brake line couplings are cheap, maybe even cheaper than compression fittings.
All my life I have sought to know "how", but "why" has always been right alongside competing for my attention!

My only thought would be that the ferrule could cut or crack the line if over tightened. I have seen a couple of them fail in steam applications. Of course a flare can crack too.

[mary and bob]

LOL, the "why" can be an elusive item. I know there is a reason for not using the compression fittings for propane, just can't remember what it is. Maybe like you say about over compressing the line. The flaring tool that was issued to me when I did fuel oil and propane was somewhat different than my Snapon double flaring tool. It made a larger single flare and did not do the double flare. We always used a heavier flare nut for propane, referred to as a "frost nut". I guess sometimes I don't ask why, just do as instructed, if the instructions make sense that is.