Replacing the front window... Scamp 13' - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-17-2007, 12:22 PM   #1
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Hey all,
We launched into the process of replacing the front window (plexiglass) in our 13' Scamp over the weekend... the old one had a big crack. We ordered a window directly from Scamp, got the old one out, installed the new gasket, and after a hearty lunch, tried to get the new one in. And tried. And tried some more.

I finally gave in and called an auto glass shop, hauled the poor thing up there (with plastic taped over the hole) and *they* tried and after 40 minutes of head scratching were just sure I'd brought them the wrong window.

I brought the old window up and the two are a perfect match. I called Scamp this morning and was met with less than stellar customer service when I asked nicely for a few hints about how to make the process go smoother (heck, even how to make it go at all ). I called hoping to just bounce some ideas around with someone more knowledgeable than myself and basically got the cold shoulder. The whole conversation was difficult and the person on the other end was very defensive and frankly rather rude... I'm guessing this isn't the first time someone's called for "window help"...

So anyways... two questions:

1. Is Scamp always this difficult to deal with or did I just get unlucky?

2. Anyone have any super hints to make the installation of the big plexiglass window go a bit easier? I'll pass them on to my installer and get my baby back home intact.
thanks
Matthew
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Old 09-17-2007, 02:43 PM   #2
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I've HEARD it's an ugly job. Requiring lots of liquid dish soap. I just cruised over to YahooScampers to see if I could find a posting that would help you out. There's two postings. One from Kamper Bob (who's also a member of this forum, he's going to be putting one in) and someone named "Charles" who posted on Wed Sep 5, 2007 1:48 pm, this information
Quote:
You might remember we asked if anyone had installed a front window
gasket and lockstrip.

Today we stopped by a place that installed windows and etc. for
equipment when I worked for the Rail Road. The owner said sure to bring
it on up and he would help me do it. Well I hooked up and took it up.
I helped to hold it on the inside and making sure the rat fur was
behind the gasket. He worked on the outside putting on the gasket &
lockstrip. I think it would have been quite a job doing it the first
time, but now I think with help I would probably try to tackle it, if
ever needed again. It took about 30 minutes to do everything.

And can you believe when I wanted to pay him he said "you don't owe me
anything, I told you I would help you" and then told me to have a good
vacation. I gave him what cash I had on hand, and plan on stopping
back and giving him a little more--or coffee and donuts. Ha!

He suggested putting Armour-Al on the rubber every month or so to
protect the rubber gasket.
then there's this from Carl:
Quote:
The string trick won't work on the scamp gasket. The gasket goes on the body
first, then the window is worked in with a plastic stick. Then the filler strip
is installed with a laceing tool. Use plenty of lubicant. If their is a
protective coating on the window, just peal off enough around the edges to go in
the gasket.

peel the rest after you finsh. Hope this helps
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Old 09-17-2007, 03:37 PM   #3
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Here's a link to a thread from this forum that might be helpful.

Good luck!

Jeanne
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:26 PM   #4
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Thanks Jeanne. I think Matthew needs all the help he can get. The problem is the dang compound curve whereas the back window is flat.

Anyone else have any tips?
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Old 09-17-2007, 05:36 PM   #5
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The installation method is very similar to glass windows we install in some school buses. The "plastic stick" is a highly recommended item that should be available at a local glass shop, I would even recommend 2. Another item that helps make the process run smoother is lubricant. Liquid dish soap will work. We use spary silicon at the shop. Start with one corner wedged into the gasket groove, work along the bottom edge easing the window into the gasket and gently prying the gasket out around the window with the plastic stick. Get the bottom edge in first and then work the sides up. Here's where 2 sticks and a shop assistant come in handy. Work both sides up at the same time untill you get to the corners. Now work one of the upper corners in and work your way accross to the other side. Once you get to the first upper corner it may be helpfull to have the assisstant work from the inside to help push the gasket up and out over the window.


Once you have the window into the gasket, the "zipper strip" is then installed with the other specialty tool sometimes called a lacing tool. Again, lubricant will assist with easing this installation. It can be installed without the lacing tool but can be a bear to accomplish. Try to get the lace seam at the bottom, and then fill with whichever sealant you prefer. The sealant will help to prevent the lock strip from "jacking" out of place from contaminants.

HTH
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Old 09-17-2007, 06:40 PM   #6
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Thanks all... very informative stuff! It all seems to confirm the bits of info I was able to squeeze out of the fellow at Scamp.

The fellows at the auto body place in Ronan got it figured out this afternoon and "Tehanu" is safely home in the front yard, new window in place. They used 2 guys inside and 2 guys outside to make it happen, evidently. Yikes. Rather expensive, I'm afraid.

After my bank account recovers from this little fiasco, I'm ordering a gravel guard pronto! Never again!

Thanks all... hopefully the info in this tread will help someone else when they're faced with this problem.

Matthew
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Old 09-18-2007, 01:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
1. Is Scamp always this difficult to deal with or did I just get unlucky?
I bought some hinge parts from Scamp - phone order - and asked the same person some questions. He was helpful and appropriately courteous, and I don't even own a Scamp. Perhaps it was a tough day at Scamp, or the window really is a touchy subject...
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Old 09-18-2007, 03:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Try to get the lace seam at the bottom, and then fill with whichever sealant you prefer. The sealant will help to prevent the lock strip from "jacking" out of place from contaminants.
Great info!

Dan, I've heard it's best to NOT put the seam at the bottom, but maybe along one side because water tends to pool on the bottom portion of the gasket. If the seam is starting to let go, that will allow the "pooled" water to make its way into the trailer.

Any thoughts?
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Old 09-18-2007, 04:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
I bought some hinge parts from Scamp - phone order - and asked the same person some questions. He was helpful and appropriately courteous, and I don't even own a Scamp. Perhaps it was a tough day at Scamp, or the window really is a touchy subject...
I'm thinking it's the "window question" that's the problem... the person in the parts dept that sold me the windows was great... I should have just ask for a few "helpful hints" when I made the order.

I'm betting that window has been the cause of [b]quite a few phone calls over the years...

Anyways, here she is all done:


Click image for larger version

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Old 09-18-2007, 05:02 PM   #10
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That looks good to me.
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Old 09-18-2007, 05:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Great info!

Dan, I've heard it's best to NOT put the seam at the bottom, but maybe along one side because water tends to pool on the bottom portion of the gasket. If the seam is starting to let go, that will allow the "pooled" water to make its way into the trailer.

Any thoughts?

The reason we have allways put the seam on the bottom is that the sealer eventually fails anyways due to vibration and flexing. The intent is that water will leak out of the seam if and when the sealer fails. Most of the locking strips are on the outside and tapered away from the window and body so the hope is that the water would run away. The Sealer to prevent contamination is just that. Dirt, road salt, gravel, sand, dust...... you name it it can get in there without the sealant. Eventually that stuff will work it's way under the locking strip and that's where we've seen the failure in the gasket.
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Old 09-18-2007, 08:00 PM   #12
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Thanks for the clarification Dan

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Old 02-05-2008, 07:18 PM   #13
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seeing your front window is one sheet of plexiglass?? mine opens up in middle and the same on ovel one on door?? push open on metal shafts to hold open. aluminum frame riveted all the way around past owner covered everything in silicone but still leaks want to replace every thing frame and all your thoughts guessing 70ish trailer
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Old 02-05-2008, 09:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
seeing your front window is one sheet of plexiglass?? mine opens up in middle and the same on ovel one on door?? push open on metal shafts to hold open. aluminum frame riveted all the way around past owner covered everything in silicone but still leaks want to replace every thing frame and all your thoughts guessing 70ish trailer

We Just replaced the front Plexiglass window on our 88-16' Scamp with a new sliding glass window with screen. We ordered the window from Scamp directly. We had to measure the opening dimensions to be sure we ordered the correct one and the statement from the other end was....... "It should fit, but if it doesn't you might have to do some trimming." Fortunately there was no trimming involved, and the installation went fairly smooth. New butyl tape under the outside trim face, and then install the interior clamp ring with the screws provided, working in an alternating pattern around the frame to draw the ring and window together in as even a motion as possible.

[b]aluminum frame riveted all the way around ----

I don't know about the rivets on your window, but you might be able to remove the window, and re-seal with butyl, and then a good sealer like Flexi-seal. I know the board has discussed how to seal windows and such with this kind of method in several other posts.

Check out this thread ----> Butyl Tape, Silicone and sealing, Split topic
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