Replacing window seal in Scamp - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-06-2009, 04:40 PM   #1
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I would like to replace the window seal in the front window on my 13' Scamp I purchased the beading and lockstrip directly from Scamp, but i'm not sure where to start. I would like to do the project myself instead of bringing it to a dealer for replacement. Has anyone taken on the project before. Thanks
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:39 PM   #2
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Hi Nick,

Although the seals on my Boler windows are still good, I've been keeping an eye out for tips because I'm sure I'll have to replace them eventually. I happened to be on the phone with Scamp's parts department for something else a few days ago and asked them about it or if they had any tips, and they said "it's hard."

This thread has good info, including tips from a member who has installed similar seals on busses.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...mp;#entry243485

One thing I wondered, after re-reading it, is where one puts the sealant on the lock-strip. All the way around (I think), or just at the gap. And if one puts sealant -- and when -- on the main gasket.

Raya
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Old 04-06-2009, 08:33 PM   #3
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One of the best sources we have that we can point to are videos created by Kevin61 on YouTube. These are for Boler windows (the solid plexiglass kind), but will give you a good idea of the process:
Installation of Boler front/rear window part one video, installing a Boler plexiglass window
and
Installation of Boler front/rear window part TWO video

You'll also need a lock strip tool. It's possible to do the window without it, but for a relatively inexpensive tool it can make the job considerably easier. You may find it cheaper locally, but this is what you need: Lisle 47000 Windshield Locking Strip Tool. I've seen some with four different heads that you can choose from to install different diameters of lock strip.

Best of luck!
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Old 04-06-2009, 08:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
One of the best sources we have that we can point to are videos created by Kevin61 on YouTube. These are for Boler windows (the solid plexiglass kind), but will give you a good idea of the process:
Installation of Boler front/rear window part one video, installing a Boler plexiglass window
and
Installation of Boler front/rear window part TWO video

You'll also need a lock strip tool. It's possible to do the window without it, but for a relatively inexpensive tool it can make the job considerably easier. You may find it cheaper locally, but this is what you need: Lisle 47000 Windshield Locking Strip Tool. I've seen some with four different heads that you can choose from to install different diameters of lock strip.

Best of luck!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:16 PM   #5
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One thing I wondered, after re-reading it, is where one puts the sealant on the lock-strip. All the way around (I think), or just at the gap. And if one puts sealant -- and when -- on the main gasket.

Raya
Raya,

We put the sealant at the seam of the lock-strip, but it could be put all the way around the lock-strip (messy and not appealing to the eye). The sealant is applied after installation of the seal and strip.

I'll be perfectly honest here and say that I hate these type of windows so much, that I replaced ours during the rebuild with a new front slider from Scamp.
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:31 PM   #6
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Ooh, I didn't know one could get a front slider. Do you happen to know if the 16' mold is somehow flatter on the front than a typical 13 foot Boler/Scamp/clone? It seems like there is a fair bit of curve there (on the 13).

I have seen where some older (1970s) Scamp 13s have a three-panes-across jalousie window on the front and rear, but I wondered if they discontinued them due to problems getting a seal because of the curve.

Thanks for the sealant info. on the lock strip. Can I ask if one puts sealant on the main gasket? On my Boler it looks like there was probably some "factory" sealant put on when it was first installed (i.e. it's on the inside; not slathered on top). But best practices/sealants might have changed over the years.

Thanks,

Raya
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:47 PM   #7
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I've been wondering the same thing Raya. I've been lusting after an opening front window. Dan painted his Scamp, so he could make the opening smaller and build up the surround if necessary. Dan... did you have to rework the front window opening?

I see the new Trillium has radius cornered jalousie opening windows for $245. Trillium Parts List Might be worth looking into further... hummmmm
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:50 AM   #8
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Thanks for the sealant info. on the lock strip. Can I ask if one puts sealant on the main gasket? On my Boler it looks like there was probably some "factory" sealant put on when it was first installed (i.e. it's on the inside; not slathered on top). But best practices/sealants might have changed over the years.
We use a sealant around the outside of the main seal only because my boss is a silicone nut. I've installed a few of the windows with just the sealant on the lock strip as an experiment and there has been no leak. I would assume it's possible for the water to migrate under the seal and back up past the seal on the inside. Clean rubber seals on the plexi window and a clean exterior will be a better seal than using silicone in my oppinion. I used a specialty non-silicone sealant on a couple of the windows on our Scamp as an experiment and I'm regretting it. The $&!^ won't come off like the silicone would but it also collected dust and dirt and looks like garbage.


Dan... did you have to rework the front window opening?



Donna, The window opening for the front was exactly the same as the window opening in the rear. We called Scamp and gave them the dimensions for the opening and they supplied the new window.

Warning: Installing a new Hehr window with new insulation and "Rat fur" is not necessarily easy. Compression of all the layers and installation of the clamping ring screws is allmost enough of a fight to potentially cause divorce. Trust me I know this!
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:57 AM   #9
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Thanks Dan. So the opening is the same size, but the curve on the body didn't (or isn't) causing problems? The back window area is flat... the front is not. I was just concerned the sides of the window would "bulge" away from the body and be a potential leaker area. hummmmm
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Old 04-10-2009, 08:37 AM   #10
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One thing I wondered, after re-reading it, is where one puts the sealant on the lock-strip. All the way around (I think), or just at the gap. And if one puts sealant -- and when -- on the main gasket.

Raya

I didn't use any sealant and have had no problems or leaks.
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Old 04-10-2009, 01:44 PM   #11
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Thanks for the sealant input to both of you. (Dan, what have you found that makes removing silicone easy? I would pay for that information!)

Sounds like the 16-footer is different from at least the original Boler/clone 13-footer. The front window on mine is definitely not the same shape as the rear. That is, I think the outer dimensions might be the same, or similar, but the window lens is quite a bit more "tortured" as the body has a more compound curve there.

Raya
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:49 AM   #12
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Thanks for the sealant input to both of you. (Dan, what have you found that makes removing silicone easy? I would pay for that information!)

Sounds like the 16-footer is different from at least the original Boler/clone 13-footer. The front window on mine is definitely not the same shape as the rear. That is, I think the outer dimensions might be the same, or similar, but the window lens is quite a bit more "tortured" as the body has a more compound curve there.

Raya

Silicone removal tool powered by arm-strong. wd40 and a rag help too.

There may be a curve to the front of the body, although it may be that the slider windows help to hold the shape of the body, and the plexiglass window will allow for more flex and thus appearing to be a more curved shape. In our case when we had all of the windows out, it was hard to tell any difference between the front and the rear of the shell. Maybe there were changes in the molds over the years?
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:52 AM   #13
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Thanks Dan. So the opening is the same size, but the curve on the body didn't (or isn't) causing problems? The back window area is flat... the front is not. I was just concerned the sides of the window would "bulge" away from the body and be a potential leaker area. hummmmm
Donna,

As I stated above, we didn't see any noticeable difference between the front and rear area. Perhaps the curvature was adding to the "disagreement" that arose between the wife and I while installing the new front window. In anycase I haven't seen any leakage, and the window appears tight all the way around.

HTH
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Old 06-09-2010, 05:26 PM   #14
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I would like to replace the window seal in the front window on my 13' Scamp I purchased the beading and lockstrip directly from Scamp, but i'm not sure where to start. I would like to do the project myself instead of bringing it to a dealer for replacement. Has anyone taken on the project before. Thanks
I just did it last night after work--13' Boler. Buy a locking strip/lacing tool first! Save yourself the headache. Paid $20 at CarQuest in Ottawa, ON. Lisle 47000 Windshield Locking Strip Tool ebay has them also if you can wait. One thing I found odd was that I left the strip off for a couple days and found that it quickly shrunk up. I put it under hot water and it stretched again. The whole thing took 1 hour. Keep one person on the inside to keep pressure on the window. THe extra hands come in handy on the corners. I started at the outside strip in bottom centre of window; popped both bottom corners in place then started at the top corner; your last corner is the most difficult FYI. That helps when 2 people are there, one to push on corner other to use lockstrip tool and knife to pop it in. I started lock strip middle of side of window (just read this post about finishing at bottom so may try this when I take them out to paint the body). Then put marine goop in gap/where they meet on trim pieces.
How much is new window trim anyways? The tinted plexi was $50 each window. Tammy
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