Req expert opinions about one trailer wheel locking up when braking - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-17-2016, 05:19 PM   #15
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As other suggest the magnet could well be the issue but it could also be poor ground wire for the brakes. I eventually figured out that was the issue with my 16' as sometimes the brakes worked well and sometimes not well and sometimes too well!!
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Old 04-17-2016, 05:28 PM   #16
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Then something else is wrong. Why would grease cause it to lock up? Good puzzle
I don't know but some Internet resources say that grease on the works can cause wheels to lockup when braking. Still waiting on more experts to chime in.

And before I get into this too deep, is it normal for the leading pad to stay out after moving the magnet back while the hub is off (simulating brake activation)? Or does it retract OK only if and when the hub is on? No springs seem to be broken but the pad stays out until I give it a good tap. See video.
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Old 04-17-2016, 06:13 PM   #17
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NOTE: I believe the OP has 16' trailer with 10" brakes.
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Old 04-17-2016, 06:25 PM   #18
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Looks like the arm the magnet is mounted on is binding at the top where it pivots.
You may also want to apply a tad of grease where the shoes contact the square part.
cure that, adjust the shoes and you should be good to go.
I've been messing all day getting the bearings set just right on my 17' Casita SD.

Joe
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Old 04-17-2016, 07:59 PM   #19
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NOTE: I believe the OP has 16' trailer with 10" brakes.
Thanks, I missed that. No problem locking brakes with a 10" drum. The drum that's not locking is the issue. The grease is just a mess needing clean up. Save the pictures for the next EZ lube discussion.
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Old 04-17-2016, 08:41 PM   #20
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Save the pictures for the next EZ lube discussion.


Something tells me we will see that photo time and time again for years to come even if the party who took it does not share it again!
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Old 04-17-2016, 08:46 PM   #21
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Thanks, I missed that. No problem locking brakes with a 10" drum. The drum that's not locking is the issue. ....
I'm not so sure.. when I picked up the trailer and went to adjust the brake controller according to the instructions, I did not have any luck getting the brakes to lock up at reasonable speeds with reasonable brake pedal pressure. I even tried on a gravel parking lot. Yet braking performance was good - smooth like I would expect it to be. And I read that others have the same experience with the 16, and 10 inch brakes. Even with aggressive braking when the controller was set on max 10 volts, the brakes never locked.. yet now the one side locks and leaves skid marks at slower speeds with the max voltage set at 4.5 volts (maybe even lower).

Yet I will admit that if the non-locking side was failing, and the other side was having to do all the braking, that would make sense. But as far as I can determine, the non-locking side is working normally. The only possible problem would be a bad connection that does not occur when testing, but does once in a while on the road.
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Old 04-17-2016, 08:57 PM   #22
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I would send the photo to Scamp with a detailed description of the issue. Asking for a warranty replacement of the brake assembly and a new drum and hub assembly seems appropriate here. I also see what might be a wear issue on the leading edge of the magnet.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:02 PM   #23
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And I read that others have the same experience with the 16, and 10 inch brakes. Even with aggressive braking when the controller was set on max 10 volts, the brakes never locked.. yet now the one side locks and leaves skid marks at slower speeds with the max voltage set at 4.5 volts (maybe even lower).

Y.
I can get the brakes on my 16' to lock up no problem if I set the controller to high. When things get to the point that I can not that is when I know I need to do a brake adjustment on the trailer - which has become part of a yearly routine - done at the same times bearings get a repack or replacement.
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Old 04-18-2016, 05:34 AM   #24
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My last trailer had 10" brakes. No problem getting them to lock up. My Trillium has 7" brakes. Pads are too small to lock. The one time they did lock was when the magnet clip fell off and the loose magnet got jambed.

I'm no expert, just a little further down the path. I initially suggested jacking the wheel and spinning it but I see you've already done that. Let us know what you find. Raz
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Old 04-18-2016, 05:40 AM   #25
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Something tells me we will see that photo time and time again for years to come even if the party who took it does not share it again!
Did you save a copy? I did.
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:55 AM   #26
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Well I am still confused..

On the side that was locking up (starboard) I cleaned up the grease (without disassembling the brakes), did a partial bearing repack (they only had about 3100 miles) and replaced the seal. Then re-adjusted the brakes and did a parking lot test.

The starboard side still locked up (or at least locked up before the port side), so I backed off two more clicks on the starwheel. From the point where I could not turn the wheel with one hand, the starboard side starwheel was backed off 8 clicks and the port side 6 clicks.

Did another test drive and was still getting wheel lock-up at anything close to the setting I had been using without lock-up since picking up the camper (10 volts max). I backed it down and went back and forth on the setting while doing stops from around 15 MPH. I finally settled on 6.2 volts and then hit the road. At this setting the braking seems good from slow speed as well as about 45 MPH. The wheel is not locking up unless maybe I really hit the brakes hard. The starboard side does run hotter. Probably not too hot in normal use but after all my repeated braking for testing and adjusting, the right drum was too hot to hold my finger on but not the left.

So at this point I am wondering if there were two issues:
1. The obvious grease leak
2. And perhaps in fact the brakes were not adjusted right from the start, and I was using a higher controller setting to compensate. Is ~6 volts a reasonable max setting?

I feel good enough about it to head out in the next week and do about 120 miles on secondary highways so we will see how it goes.

PS. My photo has a hidden watermark and copyright
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Old 04-19-2016, 01:18 PM   #27
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Gordon what Make & model of controller are you using?

I have one of the original Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller's same as a P2 but just can't be mounted at as great an angle as the P2 can.... I have never needed to move the settings any where above the mid 3's (no boost on) to get the my 16' Scamps trailer brakes to work well. Anything above that and it would lock up way to soon.
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Old 04-19-2016, 03:02 PM   #28
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The prodigy is inertia controlled. As far as I can tell, the knob sets the maximum voltage to the magnet and the boost level sets the steps to get there. The manual says set to 6 and adjust to lock up and then back off just below there. Where that happens will be determines by the weight of the trailer, the size and condition of the brakes, and the condition of the magnet to drum surfaces. As far as I can tell the distance from the brake shoe to the drum simply determines how far the swing arm has to move to engage. Mine are set barely touching. With a 7" drum I can't lock up, so I set things so the trailer brakes are compensating for the additional weight of the trailer as best I can. There's a lot of voo doo involved.
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