Req expert opinions about one trailer wheel locking up when braking - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-19-2016, 05:07 PM   #29
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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What I saw in the video; it's kind of quick so I didn't get a real good look, but when you moved the magnet by hand the forward shoe appeared to raise up, making it misaligned from the position it would be in if the brake drum was on. This may account for you having to hit it for it to retract. Looks like you are hitting it down. Another thought, is there a primary and secondary brake shoe or are they both the same. Cars and trucks with drum brakes generally have two different shoes on each wheel, one will have longer lining than the other, therefore primary and secondary. I can't remember which is what at the moment. I have a set of brake assemblies I pulled off my Casita, but they are in my shop at another location and can't look at them right now. Every time I pull the drums on any vehicle I blow out the dust and clean off the shoes with 80 grit or so sandpaper to remove any glaze. If the shoes have been heavily grease contaminated you may not be able to completely clean them, but may be worth trying. When you do your adjustment you want to tighten the shoes against the drum to the point you can barely turn the wheel. This centers the shoes. Then back off until the drum turns free with maybe a very slight drag. Check the axle manufacturers specs on that. Both sides should be backed off the same number of clicks
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:16 PM   #30
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Gordon what Make & model of controller are you using? ... I have never needed to move the settings any where above the mid 3's (no boost on) to get the my 16' Scamps trailer brakes to work well. Anything above that and it would lock up way to soon.
P3.
And thats good to know.. I thought that 6 might be too low but maybe its just right.

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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
What I saw in the video; it's kind of quick so I didn't get a real good look, but when you moved the magnet by hand the forward shoe appeared to raise up, making it misaligned...
After posting that I pulled the other drum and it did the same thing, so I think it is normal (with the drum off). You could pretty much give it a knock anywhere to get it to retract.
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:59 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
P3.
And thats good to know.. I thought that 6 might be too low but maybe its just right.
Actually 6 still sounds high to me. I pull the same trailer with a mid size truck and used to pull it with a small cross over vehicle.... I do not need to set it over 4. Makes me wonder if the brake shoes are still maybe not set correctly. I know when I first got my trailer (used) its where not set correctly and I did have to set the controller much higher & use all the boosts on first tow home and even then it wasn't very good.

When you set it up where you using the manual emergency switch on the controller to test the stopping power or the cars brakes?

If I am not mistaken when setting it up you use the manual emergency switch to stop the trailer and if it locks up to fast you turn the power down and try and again until it stops well but is not doing a total bunny hop lock up. Then try stopping it with the cars brakes .... . I do not have the full instructions for set up with me but that is pretty well how I check it on the start of every trip as you never know what may have changed since last trip out.
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:20 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
...

When you set it up where you using the manual emergency switch on the controller to test the stopping power or the cars brakes? ...
Using the manual knob, according to this procedure:
1. Connect trailer to tow vehicle. 2. Set power to indicate 6.0. 3. Drive tow vehicle and trailer on a dry level paved surface at 25 mph and fully apply Manual Knob. 3 If trailer brakes lock up then turn power down using Power Buttons. 3 If braking was not sufficient then turn power up using Power Buttons. 4. Repeat Step (3) until power has been set to a point just below wheel lock up or at a sufficient force as to achieve maximum braking power. 5. Using the brake pedal, make a few low speed stops to check the power setting.
At this point I suspect that I did not do the brake and/or controller adjustments right previously, but I think I am real close now. Maybe just a little more tweaking.

Thanks to all for the help.
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:05 AM   #33
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Drive tow vehicle and trailer on a dry level paved surface at 25 mph and fully apply Manual Knob.
I suggest a gravel road. It's easier on the tires.
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:58 AM   #34
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
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My 13' will slide on gravel and not on pavement. I use "Full" voltage but then select "P1" to have less "aggressiveness" when I first apply the brakes. If I set it to NOT slide on gravel, it would be basically ineffective on pavement.

I've always heard and use this method: When you stop with a trailer, your vehicle should not feel like it has a trailer behind it. THEN you know the trailer is stopping itself and not both and vice-versa.

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I suggest a gravel road. It's easier on the tires.
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Old 04-20-2016, 02:24 PM   #35
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Darral, what type of tires are on your trailer?
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Old 04-20-2016, 02:30 PM   #36
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
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DICO ST175/80R13 Class C tire Rated at 1360 lbs each @ 50lbs pressure.

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Darral, what type of tires are on your trailer?
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Old 04-20-2016, 02:55 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
My 13' will slide on gravel and not on pavement. I use "Full" voltage but then select "P1" to have less "aggressiveness" when I first apply the brakes. If I set it to NOT slide on gravel, it would be basically ineffective on pavement.
13's have a smaller brake system than the OP's 16's, so not unusually for someone to need to have full voltage on a 13's, with many reported they still can not get them to lock up.
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Old 04-20-2016, 03:39 PM   #38
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13's have a smaller brake system than the OP's 16's, so not unusually for someone to need to have full voltage on a 13's, with many reported they still can not get them to lock up.
Yes, I can't get mine to lock up on gravel and I think it might be due to tires. Mine are Carlisle radials.
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:12 PM   #39
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Name: Darral
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Wow...you've thrown me a curve with that one Raz. I would have to say that your brakes are possibly not set close enough? I know they describe running the knurled screw out until the shoes locks the wheel then backing off a few clicks. How does the trailer feel when you move the lever over on your Brake controller? When leaving the driveway, I do this on mine and it's quite "snappy" when the brakes engage on my Scamp. It will tug it AND my Nissan Frontier when fully applied.

My trailer only weighs about 1740 lbs... that would definitely make a difference as well....the weight. Interesting none-the-less.

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Yes, I can't get mine to lock up on gravel and I think it might be due to tires. Mine are Carlisle radials.
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:59 PM   #40
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This is a real puzzler. I have had many different problems with electric trailer brakes over the last 50 yrs, such as the clip that holds the magnet on, broken wires, bad connections, glazed brake shoes, etc. The problem that best mimics the OP problem happened on our 13' Scamp when I purchased and installed new hub/brake assemblies. A call to Scamp solved the problem. It turns out that the brake assemblies are labeled "Left" & "Right", but if you have a leading arm axle (like on older Scamps), then you have to install the "Left on the Right" side and vice versa. Swapping the assemblies side to side solved the problem. I couldn't tell from the post what year the 16' Scamp was, so as to know if it is the newer "Trailing Arm" axle or the old style "Leading arm" configuration.
Do let us know what the cure is when you figure it out.
Dave & Paula
P.S. I really enjoy our hydraulic surge Disc brakes on our Lil Snoozy.
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:04 PM   #41
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Darrel, I don't think the distance between the shoe and the drum has much to do with it as long as the magnets are within the range of the surfaced area on the drum. I've done adjustments with the shoes close and with the shoes out further. It doesn't seem to matter. Remember, the magnet grabs the drum and rotation moves the magnet swing arm, which pushes the shoes against the drum. If you can lock the wheels, that means the force of the magnet has overcome the friction of the tire. Since we both have Dexter #9 axles, and yours locks and mine won't, I'm guessing it's tires.
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:05 PM   #42
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Dave, I believe Gordon has a new Scamp.
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