Resealing a Roof Vent - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-15-2014, 08:07 PM   #1
CPW
Senior Member
 
CPW's Avatar
 
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Flori-duh!
Posts: 934
Registry
Resealing a Roof Vent

Sort of an opinion question. If you had to reseal a roof vent on FG trailer, would you use Dicor Lap Sealant (self leveling), Dicor Lap Sealant (non-leveling) or Geocel PeoFlexRV and why?
__________________

__________________
CPW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 08:28 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Have redone both roof vents and used none of the above.

I removed the vents cleaning up all the gunk previous owners as well as the factory had put on them and then using butyl tape to reset the vents which is the overwhelming first choose of most here who have redone their vents or any other exterior part on the trailer.

Forgot to add the reason for using butyl is its the longest lasting and lest likely to leak product out there.
__________________

Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 08:53 PM   #3
CPW
Senior Member
 
CPW's Avatar
 
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Flori-duh!
Posts: 934
Registry
Carol,
While I appreciate your answer, and that is the way I would redo my vent if necessary, that was not the question. I have an acquaintance who is recaulking a roof vent fan in an older trailer and was going to use GE silicon. He doesn't want to remove and reinstall the unit. I advised him not to use silicon but am hoping to get some positives/negatives of some of the commonly used alternative sealants.
__________________
CPW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 08:54 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 4,333
If I didn't want to remove the vent I would use the Proflex. I used it to seal some seam leaks.
__________________
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 09:10 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPW View Post
Carol,
that is the way I would redo my vent if necessary, that was not the question.
.
Humm I don't believe I did misread your question :"If you had to reseal a roof vent on FG trailer, would you use Dicor Lap Sealant (self leveling), Dicor Lap Sealant (non-leveling) or Geocel PeoFlexRV and why?"

Please re read my answer as that is how and why I would "reseal" a vent.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 09:16 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
floyd's Avatar
 
Name: Floyd
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
IllAnnoy
Posts: 6,048
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPW View Post
Carol,
While I appreciate your answer, and that is the way I would redo my vent if necessary, that was not the question. I have an acquaintance who is recaulking a roof vent fan in an older trailer and was going to use GE silicon. He doesn't want to remove and reinstall the unit. I advised him not to use silicon but am hoping to get some positives/negatives of some of the commonly used alternative sealants.
While the use of silicone is perfectly fine, not removing the vent to reseal it is not. If he doesn't want to remove the vent and doesn't want any leaks, then he really should consider keeping the trailer inside whenever there is a possibility of precipitation.
__________________
floyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 09:57 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,433
OMG, no one has ever had long term success by blobbing on caulk on top of old caulk on all molded towables, whether windows or vents. It's one of the big things we try to teach newbees. Don't be lazy, pull the vent, clean all the old crap off and use butyl to rebed. Just like Carol said. Don't be lazy. This is a maintenace issue and if done properly, you won't need to do it for another 15-20 years.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 10:35 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
FTTRV's Avatar
 
Name: Chuck
Trailer: tp
Washington
Posts: 649
Donna and Carol are right. I have replaced vents on FG trailers. Remove the old vent, clean the roof area of all gunk. Use butyl tape under vent flange screw down. Then use Dicor self leveling covering all the screws and along the edges of the vent flange. This is the right way to do on all trailers.
Chuck
__________________
FTTRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2014, 06:21 AM   #9
CPW
Senior Member
 
CPW's Avatar
 
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Flori-duh!
Posts: 934
Registry
Thank you for all your answers, especially Mary and Bob. I am well aware of the proper way to seal a vent, and I was hoping not to stir a debate about butyl tape, probable future leaks, or "overwhelming first choices." I was really trying to determine which of three specific products, excluding silicon, is the preferable product as a sealant in the opinion of this forum's readers.
__________________
CPW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2014, 08:22 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 4,333
Thanks Carl; A Scotty owner at a vintage rally told us about the Proflex. On our way home we passed a RV dealer and stopped in and bought some as we were battling several leaks in our Uhaul at the time. Sometimes I'll go with the theory of "try the easy fix first", or "don't open up a can of worms", or "let sleeping dogs lie"! We had leakage around our front window that I finally attributed to 3 possibilities, A small split in the rubber glass to frame seal, a flaw in the original sealant, or a flaw in the fiberglass seam, probably all three. The original window frame sealer was rock hard, I was afraid of damaging the window if I tried to remove it, so decided to try the Proflex, and it worked. I also used it with success on a leak at a marker light. Used it again around the rivets when I installed my awning rail. It comes in clear or white, but like many types of caulk in a tube it will harden in the nozzle once used. Your other choices I haven't used so can't compare them, but the Proflex did what I needed.
__________________
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2014, 08:46 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
Yep, the can of worms is now open....

Good luck on finding a recommendation for a question that asks; "Which of the following bad ideas is best".

All too many of us have been victims of previous owners who followed just that practice. Unfortunately most of those listed will work..... for a while, until more is piled on top of the first repair etc.

That said, for non-fiberglass roofs that I have worked on Sikaflex-715 self leveling sealer has been my weapon of choice, but never on fiberglass.
__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2014, 09:51 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPW View Post
I am well aware of the proper way to seal a vent, and I was hoping not to stir a debate about butyl tape,
don't believe you will ever find any debate over the use of butyl tape here.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2014, 11:27 AM   #13
Moderator
 
Frederick L. Simson's Avatar
 
Name: Frederick
Trailer: Fiber Stream
California
Posts: 8,151
Registry
Send a message via AIM to Frederick L. Simson
Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by CPW View Post
I have an acquaintance who is recaulking a roof vent fan in an older trailer and was going to use GE silicon. He doesn't want to remove and reinstall the unit. I advised him not to use silicon but am hoping to get some positives/negatives of some of the commonly used alternative sealants.
Many other people view a trailer in the same way they view their stationary house, "I usually don't have to uninstall and reinstall the windows of my stationary house to seal them. I just re-caulk them, so why should I have to go to all of that difficult work to do the same thing for my trailer ?!?"

Most of us old fogeys get obsessive-compulsive about procedure. Uninitiated trailerites are destination oriented, not journey oriented like those of us who have taken "the road everyone else took" and we remember all the potholes. We see our collective past; they can only see their imagined virtual future.

I can appreciate Carl's intention. HE knows how it ought to be done. His previous instructions to his acquaintance have so far fallen on deaf ears... so plan "B" is to minimize that person's self-inflicted damage if he cannot prevent it. We don't need to preach to the choir...

I'm a belt AND suspenders kind of guy. I have used Dicor Lap Sealant (self leveling) on my Fantastic-Fan install as a finish after using butyl tape in the proper install procedure. I didn't want the bazillion screw heads left exposed, and mine have not leaked in 10 years. The adherence trick for extruded caulk products is absolute pristine cleanliness of the substrate, usually achieved by an alcohol wipe-down that is allowed to evaporate completely before application of the caulk.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
1978 Fiber Stream 16 named "Eggstasy" & 1971 Compact Jr. named "Boomerang"
Frederick L. Simson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2014, 11:41 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Name: Drew
Trailer: Trillium Outback - 2004
Alberta
Posts: 106
Registry
I've used Dicor self leveling to cover everything installed on my roof, whether it's around the fan, over solar mounts, rivets, or small holes from the PO. I've never had it leak. It's removal is fairly easy as well. The PO had a hole in the roof for solar wiring, it was simply covered in Dicor and never leaked. I did the same just to see if it would work and it's been completely fine. It was recommended to me by Trillium in Calgary, that's pretty much all they use on roofs as far as I can tell. I'll be re-covering my awning rivet's this year with it just to be safe.
__________________

__________________
Where we’re going, we don’t need a plug-in.
multi-task is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Anyone know how to fix a saggy roof in a Boler??? (around roof vent) idiotsniff Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 31 11-17-2014 06:50 AM
Protecting The Roof & Roof Vent Covers , AC, This Winter ???? John Cole Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 25 01-15-2013 05:57 PM
Resealing roof vent seams? Don Dunsmore Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 7 10-11-2011 11:20 AM
Resealing Windows - John Truitt Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 4 04-30-2009 09:08 PM
To Roof Vent, Or Not To Roof Vent Frederick L. Simson Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 02-22-2009 05:41 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.