Right or Wrong Size? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-04-2010, 07:01 PM   #1
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Name: Vicki
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Texas
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After much thought and reading I have decided to re-wire without a converter, and go with solar for the battery. (Gina - you made a lot if sense!!)
Question is, I do have an A/C, so I probably need more than a 15 amp for the 110v stuff. All I have been able to find is 40amp boxes, no 30amp boxes.
Will this be okay or do I need to go back on the hunt?
I can not ever imagine needing 40 amps, but if I put that in, can I plug into a 30amp at a campground?
I appreciate all responses, cause I can't be much more confused than I am now.

Vicki
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:28 AM   #2
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Quote:
After much thought and reading I have decided to re-wire without a converter, and go with solar for the battery. (Gina - you made a lot if sense!!)
Question is, I do have an A/C, so I probably need more than a 15 amp for the 110v stuff. All I have been able to find is 40amp boxes, no 30amp boxes.
Will this be okay or do I need to go back on the hunt?
I can not ever imagine needing 40 amps, but if I put that in, can I plug into a 30amp at a campground?
I appreciate all responses, cause I can't be much more confused than I am now.

Vicki
The 40 amp box should come without breakers. Buy and install the appropriate breakers size in the box.
If you have 110V lights you need a circuit for that and a separate circuit for the A/C.
The 30 amp campground service will only supply the amount of power needed by your trailer up to 30 amps.
You will probably need one 15 amp breaker for lights and a 20 amp breaker for the A/C.
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:49 PM   #3
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Trailer: 2005 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
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When I re-do the electrics in our Surfside project, I will not install a converter. I will, however, install a BatteryMinder battery charger that'll help keep my battery healthy whenever I have shore power. If you are conservative with your 12v power use and have solar to boot even their smallest, $60, 1.3 Amp trickle charger should do the trick, but we plan to install their $130, 8-amp charger, which can more than keep up with the meager demands of out LED-lighting (max 2.5 amps with all the lights turned on), 12v furnace (2.8 Amps), 12V TV/Radio/DVD Player (1.1 Amps).

The idea of a rating on a box (or other electrical device) is to note its maximum capacity rating, so a 15 Amp breaker can handle 5, 10, or 15 Amps, but not 20. It can handle up to 15 amps of current, but but not more. A 40 Amp box can handle up to 40 Amps of current, but not more. A 40 Amp box is fine, just don't put breakers in it that add up to more than 40 Amps.

Lynne and I have a 30-Amp system in our Scamp 5er, but carry both 15 and 30 Amp shore lines. We only pull out the 30 Amp cord when that's the only service available at the campground; the rest of the time our 15 Amp service is plenty for us and all our goodies. (A 900 watt microwave, coffee maker, propane/110v 'fridge, water heater element, toaster, and ceramic cube heater are our biggest power hogs. We don't have A/C.) We've only once tripped our trailer's 15 Amp breaker . . . but never the trailer park post breaker. My take on 15 vs 30 Amp is it's nice to have the larger capacity, but most times you don't need it.
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