Right tail light not working. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-23-2012, 02:07 PM   #15
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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We need to do a tutorial on using a simple automotive test light, stripping/crimping tool, and various wire connectors. It seems a lot of people aren't familiar with these. If I could figure out how to post pictures I'd do it. [there's something I'm not familiar with]
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:38 PM   #16
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could it be the p.o. was a nascar driver? they only turn left....
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:16 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
We need to do a tutorial on using a simple automotive test light, stripping/crimping tool, and various wire connectors. It seems a lot of people aren't familiar with these. If I could figure out how to post pictures I'd do it. [there's something I'm not familiar with]
Posting pictures is easy. Look below the window where you type in a reply for the Manage Attachments button. Click there and it pulls up a window that lets you browse your computer for the right picture. Double click on the picture file and then click upload. Click preview post to make sure you got the picture you want.

I did post a YouTube link awhile back on how to use a multimeter.

My sympathies to Brooke, as my UHaul wiring was all messed up and it took me a while to figure out what the heck was wrong.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:33 PM   #18
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I'm pretty good using the test light.

Good idea on checking the fuses!

My SUV's 4pin works so I can use that.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:34 PM   #19
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That's too many clicks, and besides I'll have to take pictures first. I still don't understand why Uhaul used a double filament bulb in the amber part of the light, and their color code confuses people too. I think for the average person a test light is the easiest thing to use to find a problem, but it's best not to poke it into the wire insulation as that just makes a place for corrosion to start. I don't see a manage button.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:40 PM   #20
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......... I still don't understand why Uhaul used a double filament bulb in the amber part of the light, and their color code confuses people too......
Did you notice that every part on the trailer is stamped "Property of UHaul Not to be Sold"? The crazy wiring is to confuse any potential thieves.

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I don't see a manage button.
Low way down below the reply window - you may need to roll your screen a bit.
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:11 PM   #21
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Napa Auto Parts has the correct part with the knobs for the lights:

Click image for larger version

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Here it is with the item SOCKET ECH LS6251 on the receipt.

I don't see why the use a double filament either only one lights up. May be to keep it simple for the techs who change the bulbs.
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:15 PM   #22
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In looking into the wiring problem on my Subaru, I found the 4pin goes back to a connector in the trunk that has 6 pins coming into it !

Unfortunately I couldn't find a burnt out fuse. When I take it in tomorrow to get the 4 pin checked I'll see if I can get a 5, 6 or 7 pin connector attached!
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:05 PM   #23
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Checking out the wiring:

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Brown => White (Running)
White => Green (Ground)
Yellow => Black (Left Turn)
Green => Black (Right Turn)

Then two triplets are wired into the trailer.

Yuck.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:21 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Mouse View Post
Checking out the wiring:

Attachment 45385

Brown => White (Running)
White => Green (Ground)
Yellow => Black (Left Turn)
Green => Black (Right Turn)

Then two triplets are wired into the trailer.

Yuck.
My sympathies. I put a plastic box on mine just in front of the propane tank and ran all the wires in there to make good soldered connections. It also houses the electronic converter that allows me to use the amber turn signals. Makes things a little tidier.

You can match any UHaul wire color to the standard harness plug wires as long as you are consistent and plug them in correctly in back. The one exception is that the running lights in back need to match the wiring color for the clearance lights.

Also mine had bad grounds where the wiring enters the trailer about midway back (under the sink). There is a ground on each side, to the frame, that was all corroded and rusty.
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:30 PM   #25
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Those big blue connectors should not be used outside the body of the trailer, better yet not used at all. The other butt connectors should be the ones that shrink to the wire when heated, and I have some that have solder built in them that melts when heated for a good connection. Uhauls are kind of odd in that each side is wired separately, that is, one of those black cords feeds the left tail lights and some of the marker lights that are tapped in below the sink, and the other cord feeds the right tail lights and the rest of the markers that tap in just to the rear of the furnace. I rewired ours with the flat four wire harness. Ran it along the outside of the tongue, up through the floor near the furnace where the original wire went in, back to the right lights and connected the right wiring for the markers there. Then across the rear inside over to the left lights, and then on to the marker wiring below the sink. Eliminated all that old frayed cracked original wiring. I didn't try to feed the new wiring through the tongue, because it could wiggle around in there and eventually wear through and short out. The less connections out in the weather, the better. Here in the Northeast, wiring on tractor trailers was impossible to make a permanent fix, no matter what we did salt would eventually work in and cause corrosion. I'm sure lights and wiring was what we spent most of our time on. I'm retired from that work over a year and a half now, and don't miss it at all. Bob
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:41 PM   #26
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Done!

After a couple confusing days and a lot of help from Bob and Thomas Mouse now has a full set of working lights!

I finally stopped trying to understand and use the current wiring and re-wired the tow lights completely. And after a few intermediate interesting results Mouse is ready to tow again - yea!

Thank you for all your help Bob and Thomas, I couldn't have done it without you!

(I would post a picture, but it still looks like spaghetti.)
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:57 AM   #27
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Congratulations and good job, Brooke.

I'm curious what you ended up doing with the amber lights.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:28 AM   #28
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I wired Green and Yellow to the Amber lights and and Brown to the Red lights and the roof signal lights.

Now both Amber and Red flash for a turn. Red is solid braking and when my lights are on. When I am braking and turning Amber flashes and Red is solid. And the signal lights only work when the lights are on.

It seems like a good plan.

I ordered the converter you suggested. I'll have to see if it changes my wiring plan.

I attached the wire under the trailer and brought it in through the grommet that took the wiring out to the license plate and no longer have a light above my license plate.

I removed my water tank to do the project.
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