ripping out rotted floor..... - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-04-2008, 11:00 AM   #1
Junior Member
 
Trailer: 1996 Scamp 16 ft
Posts: 26
Registry
Send a message via Yahoo to LaurieK
Hello again,
In my last posting I thought my floor rot could be "patched" up with CPES and filler. But when I got in there and started ripping out the rot, I found that 3/4 of the plywood needs to be replaced. (where it goes into the body ledge)
Now that it is out, I can see and understand how it all goes together. That's great, but, now that I basically have a large section to add the the floor where there is no underneath support, I'm wondering how to add a supporting peice of metal or aluminum to the frame to "hold up" the new plywood in between the frame supports. (see pic) Has anyone else found this to be a problem?

I've been searching for some 'how to' posts regarding making a template for the new plywood, what to apply to the fiberglass ledge that the plywood fits into to attach in seal it, etc. My reinventing the wheel is so tiring. There has to be a better way.

I just found out my door is waterlogged as well......it came half way off on my shoulder when I opened it up to measure the floor the other day. It was extremely heavy!! Luckily I had a hacksaw within reach! Seems like everytime I step in it, there's another problem I need to fix!

On a positive note, I was able to find SS bolts and washers locally. Still trying to figure out what to use on the outside as a washer to go between the bolt and fiberglass body. I sure haven't found anything in any of my travels (other than nylon washers at lowes..very expensive). Any ideas? (Today I found the nails with the rubber washers at another hardware store; will take them off and try them!)

As you can see in this pic, it is very rough cut and needs to be cleaned up. Just bought a new zigsaw with a safety guard ....let me tell ya, that was a scary powertool I used!!! Still have all fingers though..not sure about the fillings!
Thanks for any help!
~Laurie
Attached Thumbnails
floor.JPG  
__________________

__________________
LaurieK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2008, 10:07 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Steve Hilby's Avatar
 
Trailer: Compact Jr
Posts: 259
3/4" or 5/8" Plywood with fiberglass on both sides is surprisingly strong; you probably won't need any additional supports at all.

Make a pattern out of small pieces of corrugated cardboard, pieced together--a lot easier than trying to cut one big piece to fit. Glue the pieces together with hot-melt glue.

They make steel washers with rubber washers bonded to them--they're used in roofing, I think. Any good-sized hardware store (I recommend Ace) will have them. (I think the steel washer part is actually stainless).

__________________

__________________
Steve Hilby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2008, 10:19 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Darrel Smith's Avatar
 
Name: Darrel
Trailer: 73 13 ft Hunter Compact II
Nevada
Posts: 125
I am using stainless steel washers with bonded rubber to seal my stainless bolts when I reattach my popup hardware. I found them at a reasonable price at McMaster Carr. They are overnight shipping to me but I'm not sure about your location. I order them online. I have used grainger also but they are wholsale to dealers only. McMaster will sell to anyone.

Hope that helps a little.

Darrel
__________________
Darrel Smith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2008, 12:35 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Nita F.'s Avatar
 
Trailer: Bigfoot
Posts: 149
Laurie,

We had to replace the back 3 feet of our former scamp's floor due to a leaky rear window. We removed the wood that met the fiberglass walls. On the cross brace we cut away half of the good floor from the brace so the new floor would be able to rest on half of the cross beam. (Sorry no pictures to explain better) Then we made a cardboard template and cut the OSB to match. Still had to do some trimming to fit properly. Once it fit, we removed it and painted 2 coats of fiberglass resin on the bottom side. Once it was dry we placed the piece inside. We screwed the new flooring to the braces where we could. Then we used 2 layers of fiberglass cloth with resin to seal underneath to the fiberglass wall and any seams. Did the same thing inside. When dried it was rock solid.

The fiberglass resin hardens quickly so make only enough that you feel you can apply before losing it. My husband mixed the resin and I placed the fiberglass cloth and painted the resin. It was our first attempt with fiberglass and turned out well in spite of no previous experience. It's been a couple of years but in the archives there are some threads with pictures and better explanations. And my favorite tool for the project was a Dremel tool with various attachments.

Good luck on your project!

Nita
__________________
Nita F. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2008, 02:29 PM   #5
Member
 
Trailer: 82 Burro 13 ft
Posts: 91
i'm using a dremel with a wood/fiberglass cutting wheel, & it cuts great...
but i haven't yet gotten to the point of making my cardboard template, so i cannot help further...
--- steven
__________________
steven jones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2008, 06:37 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
MikeCM's Avatar
 
Name: Mike
Trailer: Actively shopping for a project, again.
Posts: 192
Quote:
That's great, but, now that I basically have a large section to add the the floor where there is no underneath support, I'm wondering how to add a supporting peice of metal or aluminum to the frame to "hold up" the new plywood in between the frame supports. (see pic) Has anyone else found this to be a problem?

Laurie I have a couple of ideas: 1st how about angle iron bolted to the crossmembers, as a shelf of sorts. 2nd how about a crosspice of wood wider then the space you cut, screwed to the existing floor on both sides of the opening you cut, with the patch piece on top and screwed in as well. This would tie the whole floor together.
__________________
Former 83 Burro Owner (destroyed in fire)
Looking for a new Fiberglass Project Trailer in New England.
MikeCM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2008, 07:39 AM   #7
Junior Member
 
Trailer: 1996 Scamp 16 ft
Posts: 26
Registry
Send a message via Yahoo to LaurieK
Ah....thanks everyone for your responses. I am having a peice of steel made for the support just to be safe. I just didn't want to add something to the frame if it was going to cause a problem for some reason. I'm usually the "helper", not the main mechanic, so these things just aren't second nature to me

If you use exterior plywood, does it need to sit for a while and dry out before I fiberglass it? (all the sheets they had at H.Depot were very wet)

Thanks also for the tip on the dremel tool. Great idea for those odd spots where a normal tool can't fit!

Will post pics on my progress,
~Laurie
__________________

__________________
LaurieK is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
plastic knob to drain water tank rotted again Karalyn Plumbing | Systems and Fixtures 18 05-14-2013 07:21 AM
replacing rotted floor section Isaac Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 9 12-10-2007 07:59 AM
I am thinking of ripping out the "Kitchen" Dennis J. Kane Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 20 07-16-2007 07:11 PM
Floor rot Al Stansell Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 7 07-01-2007 10:02 PM
Ripping off an awning Legacy Posts Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 9 08-08-2003 08:39 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.