rivet caps - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-07-2011, 11:18 PM   #1
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rivet caps

Any suggestion for attaching new caps to existing rivets? The snap washers have broken off over the years. I sure can't see putting in new rivets simply to have a way to put on new caps.

Perhaps some kind of adhesive?
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:16 PM   #2
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I sure can't see putting in new rivets simply to have a way to put on new caps.
Unfortunately, there's no better way for the caps to hold tight than to snap them over the rivet washers. I wonder if THIS is why so many want to replace the rivets with nuts and bolts?
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:57 PM   #3
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Fredrick.....wow. That's a lot of work for cosmetic purposes. Has anyone tried........ "GASP" .........a dab of silicone in the cap? Any other adhesive that might work?
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:12 PM   #4
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Don't forget, that if the washer is gone then the rivet is no longer tight.

Bill K


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Fredrick.....wow. That's a lot of work for cosmetic purposes. Has anyone tried........ "GASP" .........a dab of silicone in the cap? Any other adhesive that might work?
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Old 06-09-2011, 07:37 PM   #5
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Charlie, the best is to drill it out and replace it. BUT, if you can't do that (right now), consider using 3m Marine Adhesive Caulk 4200. Just enough to do the job without it oozing out everywhere. Most importantly remember the rivet is hollow and put a dab in the hole with a toothpick.
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:12 PM   #6
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Donna D,
Don't forget that 5200 is pretty permanent, 4200 will let go easier.

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Charlie, the best is to drill it out and replace it. BUT, if you can't do that (right now), consider using 3m Marine Adhesive Caulk 5200. Just enough to do the job without it oozing out everywhere. Most importantly remember the rivet is hollow and put a dab in the hole with a toothpick.
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:33 PM   #7
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I've used Dicor rubber roof sealent/ caulking.
Been 3 years since I replaced the first cap on on my 03 16' Scamp and it's still tight.
John
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:03 PM   #8
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Donna D,
Don't forget that 5200 is pretty permanent, 4200 will let go easier.

Bill K
You're right! I'm going to go fix my post... THANKS BILL!
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Old 06-10-2011, 06:53 AM   #9
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Fredrick.....wow. That's a lot of work for cosmetic purposes. Has anyone tried........ "GASP" .........a dab of silicone in the cap? Any other adhesive that might work?
Hi Charlie

I have an 85 Scamp that PO's have tried the sealant on broken caps. I am here to tell you, they will eventually fail and leak and some poor smuck down the road will be repairing water damaged floors and trying to remove mildew smells behind the rat fur or elephant skin.

I used stainless steel button head bolts (hex heads), with neoprene backed washers outside and inside, and self locking nuts with the lock around the inner circumference of the nuts. I also wrap a small strand of butyl strip caulk around the base of each bolt that goes through the body. After tighening, scrape off the excess butyl.

I know that you probably don't want to hear this, but if you take some time and effort now, the rewards will pay off later when the unit is still around years down the road.

Good luck on whatever you decide.

Michael
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:18 PM   #10
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Thank you all for your suggestions. Now I'm really confused on which way to go....but at least I know my options!

Heck, I'll just go camping for the summer and worry about it in the fall
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:45 AM   #11
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BigMike, Do you happen to have any pics of your bolt install both inside and outside ? Thanks,Tim
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Old 06-16-2011, 01:48 PM   #12
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BigMike, Do you happen to have any pics of your bolt install both inside and outside ? Thanks,Tim
Yep, I'd be interested to see as well! Thanks!
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Old 06-16-2011, 02:39 PM   #13
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Charlie, the best is to drill it out and replace it. BUT, if you can't do that (right now), consider using 3m Marine Adhesive Caulk 4200. Just enough to do the job without it oozing out everywhere. Most importantly remember the rivet is hollow and put a dab in the hole with a toothpick.
Actually, the rivet isn't hollow in any real sense, it has the remnant of the compression nail which has a spherical end which is most profoundly jambed into the sleeve of the rivet along with a portion of the nail, which is in turn securely ensconced in the acorn nut. Evidence even indicates that the rivet is commonly in addition dipped in caulk before installation. My 1970's Scamps have shown no sign of leaking and no sign of ever having rivet covers.
Still, the leaks which some have experienced add credence to the idea,I tend toward believing that the most likely cause of rivet leaks would be around the outside of the rivet once it has sufficiently loosened.
All that being said, I generally fill them when prepping for paint
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:22 PM   #14
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So Floyd I take it that you don't use the plastic washer & cap when replacing a rivet ? Do you use a metal washer with the rivet, and leave the rivet exposed ? Tim
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