rivet caps

[charliej]

Any suggestion for attaching new caps to existing rivets? The snap washers have broken off over the years. I sure can't see putting in new rivets simply to have a way to put on new caps.

Perhaps some kind of adhesive?

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by charliej

I sure can't see putting in new rivets simply to have a way to put on new caps.

Unfortunately, there's no better way for the caps to hold tight than to snap them over the rivet washers. I wonder if THIS is why so many want to replace the rivets with nuts and bolts?

[charliej]

Fredrick.....wow. That's a lot of work for cosmetic purposes. Has anyone tried........ "GASP" .........a dab of silicone in the cap? Any other adhesive that might work?

[Bill K]

Don't forget, that if the washer is gone then the rivet is no longer tight.

Bill K

Originally Posted by charliej

Fredrick.....wow. That's a lot of work for cosmetic purposes. Has anyone tried........ "GASP" .........a dab of silicone in the cap? Any other adhesive that might work?

[Donna D.]

Charlie, the best is to drill it out and replace it. BUT, if you can't do that (right now), consider using 3m Marine Adhesive Caulk 4200. Just enough to do the job without it oozing out everywhere. Most importantly remember the rivet is hollow and put a dab in the hole with a toothpick.

[Bill K]

Donna D,
Don't forget that 5200 is pretty permanent, 4200 will let go easier.

Bill K

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Charlie, the best is to drill it out and replace it. BUT, if you can't do that (right now), consider using 3m Marine Adhesive Caulk 5200. Just enough to do the job without it oozing out everywhere. Most importantly remember the rivet is hollow and put a dab in the hole with a toothpick.

[Perry J]

I've used Dicor rubber roof sealent/ caulking.
Been 3 years since I replaced the first cap on on my 03 16' Scamp and it's still tight.
John

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Bill K

Donna D,
Don't forget that 5200 is pretty permanent, 4200 will let go easier.

Bill K

You're right! I'm going to go fix my post... THANKS BILL!

[BigMike]

Originally Posted by charliej

Fredrick.....wow. That's a lot of work for cosmetic purposes. Has anyone tried........ "GASP" .........a dab of silicone in the cap? Any other adhesive that might work?

Hi Charlie

I have an 85 Scamp that PO's have tried the sealant on broken caps. I am here to tell you, they will eventually fail and leak and some poor smuck down the road will be repairing water damaged floors and trying to remove mildew smells behind the rat fur or elephant skin.

I used stainless steel button head bolts (hex heads), with neoprene backed washers outside and inside, and self locking nuts with the lock around the inner circumference of the nuts. I also wrap a small strand of butyl strip caulk around the base of each bolt that goes through the body. After tighening, scrape off the excess butyl.

I know that you probably don't want to hear this, but if you take some time and effort now, the rewards will pay off later when the unit is still around years down the road.

Good luck on whatever you decide.

Michael

[charliej]

Thank you all for your suggestions. Now I'm really confused on which way to go....but at least I know my options!

Heck, I'll just go camping for the summer and worry about it in the fall

[Tim Wood]

BigMike, Do you happen to have any pics of your bolt install both inside and outside ? Thanks,Tim

[LukeP]

Originally Posted by Tim Wood

BigMike, Do you happen to have any pics of your bolt install both inside and outside ? Thanks,Tim

Yep, I'd be interested to see as well! Thanks!

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Charlie, the best is to drill it out and replace it. BUT, if you can't do that (right now), consider using 3m Marine Adhesive Caulk 4200. Just enough to do the job without it oozing out everywhere. Most importantly remember the rivet is hollow and put a dab in the hole with a toothpick.

Actually, the rivet isn't hollow in any real sense, it has the remnant of the compression nail which has a spherical end which is most profoundly jambed into the sleeve of the rivet along with a portion of the nail, which is in turn securely ensconced in the acorn nut. Evidence even indicates that the rivet is commonly in addition dipped in caulk before installation. My 1970's Scamps have shown no sign of leaking and no sign of ever having rivet covers.
Still, the leaks which some have experienced add credence to the idea,I tend toward believing that the most likely cause of rivet leaks would be around the outside of the rivet once it has sufficiently loosened.
All that being said, I generally fill them when prepping for paint

[Tim Wood]

So Floyd I take it that you don't use the plastic washer & cap when replacing a rivet ? Do you use a metal washer with the rivet, and leave the rivet exposed ? Tim

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Tim Wood

So Floyd I take it that you don't use the plastic washer & cap when replacing a rivet ? Do you use a metal washer with the rivet, and leave the rivet exposed ? Tim

Heck I have used them profusely in multiple colors, For cosmetic reasons mostly.
My camper is a 2004 and I have already replaced all of the external caps after mild deterioration from UV, this prevents the necessity to replace the snap washers, by continuing to prevent UV exposure.
I do this eventhough my camper is primarily assembled with screws and not rivets.
When working on a Scamp which never had snap caps I would replace necessary ones in kind. no external washer would be needed in that case and I would use acorn nuts where exposed on the inside.
If the plan involves painting the shell I kinda like the idea of using flush rivets and body filler for a smooth finish, though a touch of paintable caulk applied smoothly , conceals the washers well enough to stay on budget and provide value.
Hey how about using all red caps and naming it "One Measly Scamp"

[Tim Wood]

OK I have a rivet job coming up this summer, so I just might try it without the plastic washers/caps. Then maybe I'll paint the rivet with a small brush and see how that turns out. I would just as soon do without the plastic washer/caps. I can't see any harm done. Thanks,Tim

[LukeP]

Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson

I wonder if THIS is why so many want to replace the rivets with nuts and bolts?

Which are better - nuts/bolts or rivets? I've seen several mention using both, but I can't figure out if certain situations are better one way or the other.

I recently pulled out my interior fabric to replace with reflectix/fabric. I see that nearly all of my rivets have no cap of any kind. A couple are loose, and the paint is broken on the outside as well, as I look closely. I've never put in, or taken out, a rivet. On the other hand, I've used nuts/bolts a zillion times in other things, so my amateur inclination is to go that route! Help or thoughts?

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Tim Wood

OK I have a rivet job coming up this summer, so I just might try it without the plastic washers/caps. Then maybe I'll paint the rivet with a small brush and see how that turns out. I would just as soon do without the plastic washer/caps. I can't see any harm done. Thanks,Tim

If you plan to fill and paint the pop rivets take a look at the countersunk rivets labeled with a "C" on ths following chart. flathead screws may be a better choice though, since they could be snugged up at some future date(maybe).
I am just tossing Ideas here, and not endorsing anything. there are some obvious potential foibles involved with prepping and painting over the rivets. Not so much if you just paint them.
Pop Rivets at Facca Fasteners

[Tim Wood]

Thanks for that chart Floyd I appreciate it. Think I will see if anyone else chimes in about the nut & bolt thing also. I would be interested to see what others say about that method too. Tim